Well hopefully I'll manage short of 8 hours, might take me fractionally more than 10 mins though!!
If you are going to rebuild it make sure you have a decent quality 12 point ring spanner (13mm from memory but not done it for a while) to undo the swivel to axle bolts. You cannot get a ratchet on them and I managed to banana a friends cheap spanner trying to get them loose on his!
 
If you are going to rebuild it make sure you have a decent quality 12 point ring spanner (13mm from memory but not done it for a while) to undo the swivel to axle bolts. You cannot get a ratchet on them and I managed to banana a friends cheap spanner trying to get them loose on his!
Yep, those were a bitch those bolts. Needed an extension tube over the spanner to get them off, a bit of heat from a gas torch would probably help.
 
Yep, those were a bitch those bolts. Needed an extension tube over the spanner to get them off, a bit of heat from a gas torch would probably help.
I used the second ring spanner trick to extend it and the spanner gave way rather than the bolt!
 
Well new swivel bearings, back seal and the plate that holds it in went on today, (those bolts that fix the swivel to the axle were a bit of a pain but 2 spanner trick worked fine) refilled with one shot and put it all back together and still the same play, removed the only shim and still the same. could the pins themselves be worn? I'd put the existing one back in. Anything else it could be? Chrome ball looked fine, no rust or anything, old seal seemed fine but replaced it anyway. Could it be the wheel bearing after all, did try isolating it with the brake before and it was replaced about 18 month ago.
 
With new bearings top and bottom you should need a number of shims to get the preload right. Is yours the type with bearing top and bottom or with bottom bearing and bush at the top?
 
Bearings top and bottom, I did put a couple of shims in and then removed them till the preload was right but there is still quite noticeable 12 o'clock-6 o'clock play
 
I don't think so, I did try that way but with both wheels off the ground it was difficult to tell without the steering moving, if there was any it was nowhere near as pronounced
Is the play the same if someone sits in the vehicle with their foot on the brakes? this would eliminate wheel bearings and mean the play must be coming form the swivel, which if the bearings have just been rrplaced only leaves the pin.
 
Is the play the same if someone sits in the vehicle with their foot on the brakes? this would eliminate wheel bearings and mean the play must be coming form the swivel, which if the bearings have just been rrplaced only leaves the pin.
Yeah I had done that initially, have a top pin on the way, will report back after fitting.
 
Have you order top & bottom pins?

Could you see any wear in the chrome ball or swivel housing where the pins & bearings go ?
 
Ordered top, think I have a bottom kicking around somewhere, don't think there was any wear but I didn't check that thoughrally, was ****ing it down by that point and was doing my best to keep everything dry and get it all back together quickly!
 
Should there be a thrust washer between bearing and pin in the non-railko type?
bottom pins very rarely need changing, what is your truck a 300tdi, theres no thrust washer with the bearing and preload needs to be slight as long as theres no play is the main thing
 
Yeah it's a 300, did the bearings and back seal last week, I've got a new top pin to go in but not got round to it yet, preload seems ok but there is very definite wobble between 12 and 6
 

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