Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Use Bonda Zink primer for long term protection from rust. It's designed for marine environments and so last years on cars.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONDA-RUST-PRIMER-ZINC-ANTI-RUST-PRIMER-2-5-LITRE-/321117430271
Use Bonda Zink primer for long term protection from rust. It's designed for marine environments and so last years on cars.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONDA-RUST-PRIMER-ZINC-ANTI-RUST-PRIMER-2-5-LITRE-/321117430271
That looks good, so ordered a tin, I have corroless for the boat, and have had plenty of practice prepping and painting the engine bay.
Checked Stone chip on eBay, but found this, looks like it will do the job and give colour options
Rust-Oleum Hard Hat Aerosol Spray Paint Satin Gloss Matt 500ml Red Black White
Anybody had experience of this ?
Thanks, when we bought this the wheels needed a refurb, I saw this colour on a Range Rover iirc, it's either dark or light graphite depending on viewing angle.
Good finish and no chips so far.
BTW, it was your recent fred which prompted me into action.
Undercoat and sub frames will be there when I get back
It also prompted me to check the state of the subframe on my own Freelander. Thankfully it's solid.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
This is good stone chip and if you use the promo code under a fiver a tin.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...air/stone-chip-protection/?549774241&&cc5_712
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...air/stone-chip-protection/?549774241&&cc5_712
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I've been finding the Hammerite stone chip is pretty good too. I've treated lots of rusty patches on my FL1 this year. Hopefully it'll help it last a few year yet.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I've used both and found the Hammerite is a bit thinner. No idea which is the hardest wearing tho.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
I found the stuff to be rubbish so I bought some stuff they use to rust proof tractors and the like. (I havent used it yet just sayin)
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It is quite thin, so several coats are needed. It is quite difficult to remove once dry though.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
Its also expensive stuff as i remember
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I buy it locally for a fiver a can. I don't think it's too expensive. It's good at making door mirrors look like new too.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Copy cat.I buy it locally for a fiver a can. I don't think it's too expensive. It's good at making door mirrors look like new too.
Next you'll be using it on your spare wheel carrier
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Copy cat.
Next you'll be using it on your spare wheel carrier
It's in the planning stage Ali. I'm going to do the scuttle panel with it too. I like it being thin, as the plastic texture shows through it.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
The Tetrosyl stuff is great for covering all the scratches caused by wire wheeling the alloy spare wheel holder. It's a job I need to do to Blue but been too busy recently sorting all it's other issues.
All the stuff has arrived and now unpacked, I have the long bolts but no other bolts as yet.
Had a wobble seen a FL1 sport, which I would have been interested in, but seller not responded to my email for 24 hours so will probs give that a miss now even if he does respond.
Also ordered all the filters for both FL1's so will do a service on each when SF replaced.
Sub frames look ok for the price paid.
Dog was a little pleased to see me, and helped with opening the boxes of bits.
Ordered some new battery terminals for my FL1C also.
Had a wobble seen a FL1 sport, which I would have been interested in, but seller not responded to my email for 24 hours so will probs give that a miss now even if he does respond.
Also ordered all the filters for both FL1's so will do a service on each when SF replaced.
Sub frames look ok for the price paid.
Dog was a little pleased to see me, and helped with opening the boxes of bits.
Ordered some new battery terminals for my FL1C also.
