Galve or paint

  • Paint

  • Galve


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Pompey

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

On the last MOT been advised that the rear subframe will require attention before next MOT, a good tester and every advisory he has given me I have fixed when returning, he knows I want to keep the vehicle.

As I will have some time over the winter, I plan to get another rear subframe ( I have found 3 this morning, Max price £80, with warranty 2 months ), new £450! 2 of these are in Hull which I will be going through on my return to the UK, which means I can actually see before I buy.

I have used the search facility and Google, should take a couple of hours to remove, replace bolts wth stainless, replace bushes, check subframe mounts for cracking, presuming a couple of hours to refit.

As I see it, it would be easier to get a used SF and refurb at my leisure, then schedule the vehicle to be off road for a couple of days, whilst the exchange takes place, also as @WD50 has a 3 door as well, I could refurb the exchanged one and repeat the process, maybe do hers first if that SF is in better condition, hers wasn't advised on MOT.

The two vehicles are 2005, FL1 Commercial and 2004 FL1 Sport 3 Dr. I am presuming the subframe S will be the same, just trim different, is this correct ?

My intention would be to wire brush using an angle grinder treat with a rust converter ( just for piece of mind ) then a top coat of Hammerite ( best I can think of ). Would that be the way to go ?

Then I have thought what about galvanising the SF, acid dip gives chemically clean surface, removes any existing corrosion, then a hot dip Galve. Have read they weigh the part before the process begins and then after and you are charged on the weight difference, ie how much Zinc you have used. Assuming if I went through this process I could then forget about the SF as it will not corrode in the future.

Anybody got any idea as to the expected cost of having a SF galvenised ?

The main point about buying a used SF is that the car would be off the road for less time, and I suspect would be a lot easier along with a more thorough job. Not really somethng I want to repeat in a hurry.

Finally get some waxoyl in whilst SF removed and then on the SF itself. Along with treating any other corrosion.

Any thoughts on the idea? I am not back in the UK until end of September so can't get under to take pics of existing SF.

Any other jobs to be done whilst SF removed, fuel tank cradle replaced last year with new.

Thanks In Advance, appreciate what I am asking is pretty much a case of personal preference, how long is a piece of string, and what value the FL1's are to us.
 
My own sub frame is looking like a replacement will be needed at some point in the future. Definitely worth finding a replacement and getting that ready to swap out. I can't see the point in going to the expense of galvanised. A cleaned, rust treated and painted SF will outlast the rest of the car. Wire brush off, rust kill, or electro cleaning, then apply Bonda primer before a liberal coating of stone chip. That will keep it looking good for as long as you have it. ;)

Oh and DON'T use stainless bolts as they aren't designed for suspension loadings. Use correctly rated steel bolts, treated with copper grease to prevent corrosion.
 
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Thanks @Nodge68 the Galve was an after thought, and suspected it would be pricey.

Incidentally I did a search on eBay, and only 5 door SF's came up, at about £40.
 
Thanks @Nodge68 the Galve was an after thought, and suspected it would be pricey.

Incidentally I did a search on eBay, and only 5 door SF's came up, at about £40.
I'm pretty sure that all SFs are the same across all models. I wouldn't bother with glav myself. Treat prime correctly and paint is all thats needed. I think the structure can be improved too. This is something that I'd do while it's being refurbished.
 
I'm pretty sure that all SFs are the same across all models. I wouldn't bother with glav myself. Treat prime correctly and paint is all thats needed. I think the structure can be improved too. This is something that I'd do while it's being refurbished.
eBay has a vehicle check service, which said a 5 foot wouldn't fit, not sure how reliable that check is though, worth checking before I commit to a purchase.

Could you expand on the structure improvement? Would like to do the best job I can, not is due in March iirc, certainly not until 2018.

Currently seeing if the breakers that have a rear have a front too.
 
eBay has a vehicle check service, which said a 5 foot wouldn't fit, not sure how reliable that check is though, worth checking before I commit to a purchase.

Could you expand on the structure improvement? Would like to do the best job I can, not is due in March iirc, certainly not until 2018.

Currently seeing if the breakers that have a rear have a front too.

There's only 2 rear subframes listed. Pre and post 2001. There's no apparent difference between 3 and 5 door.
http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=841991&SPRACHE=EN
 
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Thanks again, you are a star!
Saved the link, ordered front and rear subframes, from same place.

I owe you a beer!

I've found a couple of reasonable priced rear SFs near me.
I think I'll replace mine next year, along with the tank cradle.
 
I have used the search facility and Google, should take a couple of hours to remove, replace bolts wth stainless, replace bushes, check subframe mounts for cracking, presuming a couple of hours to refit.
Having had the rear end raised to access the diff, the subframe is very accessible - as is the suspension that's attached to it. However, I'm sure lots of people have had a lot of trouble removing the long bolt that goes through the suspension radius arms holding them to the subframe. I'd so a bit of specific research on this before taking the car off the road to start the subframe removal as it might slow the job down and keep the car off the road for some time. I think you should probably prepare by getting new bolts as I think people have to cut them off.
 
Having had the rear end raised to access the diff, the subframe is very accessible - as is the suspension that's attached to it. However, I'm sure lots of people have had a lot of trouble removing the long bolt that goes through the suspension radius arms holding them to the subframe. I'd so a bit of specific research on this before taking the car off the road to start the subframe removal as it might slow the job down and keep the car off the road for some time. I think you should probably prepare by getting new bolts as I think people have to cut them off.
Thanks, I have an angle grinder to use as a spanner and intend to replace all bolts required. I know for a fact the fastenings are united! I will ensure I have everything in place before disabling vehicle, as I will be using a clients work space, not asked yet either, sure they will be fine though if I stick to an agreed time, which is why I have allowed two days for the procedure.

Think it will be @WD50 sport get the first SF, then mine. Bolts are £5 a pop, if I am correct for front and back x2 is 16 bolts, not really looked that far ahead to be honest.

I know not to use stainless though thanks to @Nodge68
 
Black is universal, goes with anyfink ;)
However orange would look quite snazzy. ;) ;)
On a black fl1 sport yes.
IMG_0004.JPG
 
It would be a subtle difference not in ya face, but those that appreciate would notice. That's my thinking anyway, in saying that just been out around Frankfurt drinking Weizen Beer
 

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