What tool is that?Thanks folks
All I know is that I have bought the right tool for the job
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Hammer?
Sting Ray
Well-Known Member
Had the engine a few months; bought it untested as I thought I could trust the seller...
So you haven't actually had it in a vehicle running?
Sting Ray
Well-Known Member
Nope!
Then the decent thing would be for them to take it back and refund your money. There's no way they can say it was down to you.
It'll cost you a lot of money to rebuild the engine if you haven't already got the gear. As well as the engine parts, you have to buy quite a few tools that you wouldn't normally have and it all adds up. You've got a cylinder head to replace that I didn't have anorl
Sting Ray
Well-Known Member
Then the decent thing would be for them to take it back and refund your money. There's no way they can say it was down to you.
It'll cost you a lot of money to rebuild the engine if you haven't already got the gear. As well as the engine parts, you have to buy quite a few tools that you wouldn't normally have and it all adds up. You've got a cylinder head to replace that I didn't have anorl
As the block has already been refurbished, along with new pistons and conrod bushes, shells etc, I won't be pursuing this course of action. I'll negotiate with the seller, who I am certain will be quite positive about my offer, on the basis that I know something they don't know I know
Ah, sorry. Forgot you had gone that far alreadyAs the block has already been refurbished, along with new pistons and conrod bushes, shells etc, I won't be pursuing this course of action. I'll negotiate with the seller, who I am certain will be quite positive about my offer, on the basis that I know something they don't know I know
Do they deal in a lot of motor stuff? Perhaps they could supply a free cylinder head?
Yes, I used an assembly lube when I built the engine. Very important I would say. It's much thicker and gloopier that engine oil, so you know it's going to stay put until the engine is running and it gets displaced.
I used this stuff
And I used Millers running in oil
Follow the instructions. Can only have it in for less that 500 miles. Check level after every journey.
I used Millers Glaze Bust oil on mine first, but only because I thought the bores had been glazed by burning excessive amounts of oil due to refurbed turbo passing a lot of oil. You won't need to do this.
Another thing I did, as recommended by James Martin, was pack my oil pump full of vaseline. Are you taking yours off? I replaced the rotor while I was on, so was in there anyway. Idea is that the pump isn't spinning in fresh air, but has something to pump and so get the oil flowing during those crucial first moments of starting her up when things could be running dry.
Sting Ray
Well-Known Member
Thanks folks - very helpful. I've got a few bits and pieces on order which will hopefully arrive no later than Saturday, allowing me to start assembling the block on Sunday. I've got a new head from Turner Engineering as well - I was just going to use ERR5027, but when I factored in the cost of new valves, guides, springs, collets etc (I couldn't justify using the existing ones), as well as the cost of having them assembled into the head (I don't have the tools nor inclination), it would only have been about £20 cheaper than the assembled Turner head.
