Willos said:
Started this new thread as it will be good for a quick search
Here you will find a step by step on how to pin a slipped liner.
sorry not done by me so send your law firm to the author if it all goes pear shape:p
http://www.landroverresource.com/docs/Pinning_V8_Liner.pdf
I shall be doing mine in a couple of weeks when the temperatures rises over the brass monkey level:)
Click to expand...

Be interested to see how this turns out for you. Are you taking the block out to do this? If so, wouldn't it be better to get top hats put in if you've gone to the trouble of stripping everything out?
 
Im not putting in top hat liners because i can do this for the basic cost of the gaskets and head bolts. New top hat liners will cost me an extra £1800. The car is not worth that investment Id rather put the money into a L322. Will be done with block in car.
This repair is for your diy expert who are tooled up, not for those who would rather put faith in their local specialist LR garage who would put in a new block.
will do a video of before and after
 
Willos said:
Im not putting in top hat liners because i can do this for the basic cost of the gaskets and head bolts. New top hat liners will cost me an extra £1800. The car is not worth that investment Id rather put the money into a L322. Will be done with block in car.
This repair is for your diy expert who are tooled up, not for those who would rather put faith in their local specialist LR garage who would put in a new block.
will do a video of before and after
Click to expand...

With the engine in the car making sure the liners are flush with the block to start with maybe a problem. If one has slipped down. Bit silly to pin it in that position.
 
I have always been surprised at the high cost of a top hat block.
The liners themselves go for about £40 - £50 each, so a set would be at most £400.
If the old block is OK, that leaves £1400 for machining and inspection?
 
Is this a reliable repair?

I'm with Willios on the cost of top hats compared with some short bolts and a days careful drilling.

When my liners go this is probably what I'd do if it'll keep the liners in place until the car dies....

If the block stays in the car, how are you able to get your hands in to check the bolt isn't proud in the liner? Go in from the sump?
 
Query:

(Bear with me not to up on the Slipped Liner thing)

But if the Liner has detaached to the point of moving - what is to stop water, oil or exhaust gases from going into this 'gap' and fecking up the material faces between liner and block??

I understand pinning it in place to stop it moving, but if its moving that means there is a gap between the two - what seals this gap from possible problems?

If that makes sense!?:confused:
 
Saint.V8 said:
Query:

(Bear with me not to up on the Slipped Liner thing)

But if the Liner has detaached to the point of moving - what is to stop water, oil or exhaust gases from going into this 'gap' and fecking up the material faces between liner and block??

I understand pinning it in place to stop it moving, but if its moving that means there is a gap between the two - what seals this gap from possible problems?

If that makes sense!?:confused:
Click to expand...
You don't need a gap Ant. If the interferance fit is not tight enough, when the alloy heats and expands, it expands faster than the liner so it is possible for the liner to move. They are not wet liners so there should be no water round the liner unless the block is cracked.
What I do not see is quite how you get a slipped liner back up the bore.:confused:
 
Datatek said:
You don't need a gap Ant. If the interferance fit is not tight enough, when the alloy heats and expands, it expands faster than the liner so it is possible for the liner to move. They are not wet liners so there should be no water round the liner unless the block is cracked.
What I do not see is quite how you get a slipped liner back up the bore.:confused:
Click to expand...
Thats a good point Keith!!

But if the block has expanded relative to the liner...then there is a gap - it might by miniscule but it is there nonetheless and prone to getting hot gasses behind it and fecking the block surely?!
 
So the liners are just there because the ductile iron liner is harder wearing than the aluminium?

I was going to suggest JB Weld or similar, but that'd only help with a cracked block (or what Land Rover call "porous block" right?
 
Saint.V8 said:
Thats a good point Keith!!

But if the block has expanded relative to the liner...then there is a gap - it might by miniscule but it is there nonetheless and prone to getting hot gasses behind it and fecking the block surely?!
Click to expand...


If the liner is flush at the top and seals there should be no problem with gasses. There is no gap, just a less tight fit than is needed. It goes tight again as the block cools. the only other gasses are down below from the engine oil.
In days of old, there were engines that used sleeve valves where the movement of a sleeve around the liner opened and closed ports for inlet and exhaust. Not very efficient but they worked.
 
Datatek said:
If the liner is flush at the top and seals there should be no problem with gasses. ......
Click to expand...

Ahhhh - with you now....makes sense, if it is sealing against the gasket there is no chance of the gasses 'going over the top' and down between the two materials...:)
 
I've rebuilt a number of perkins engines and fitted new liners by freezing them for a few hours. is it not possible to have the block machined to fit the top hat liners and then do the assembly yourself. Does no one do this??
 
Last edited:
timmy264 said:
I've rebuilt a number of perkins engines and fitted new liners by freezing them for a few hours. is it not possible to have the block machined to fit the top hat liners and then do the assembly yourself. Does no one do this??
Click to expand...
There are companies who will fit top hatted liners to your block but in the OP's instance, this is cost prohibitive....
 
top hat linered blocks are usually about £1000 ,theres some work in fitting the liners ,but its the only cure to cracked block i know ,you cant peg a loose liner for long it will crack itself were contact is poor between it and bore
 
Can't understand why its so expensive. The liners must be about £70 each and the machining can only be about a days labour.
 
Last edited:
SD1 ebay sales has them £40 delivered inc vodka and tonic.
But if you go that far you think to yourself, well might as well put in new pistons.
While im at it have new little ends, and just to top it off re grind the crank.
Arr those those tappets are a little loose on the top. Just a little off the heads to make sure and regrind valves in and new oil seals.
Thats me as i would not put a new componant in and put all the old gear back.
This when it mounts up. £1000 becomes £3000. When its off might as well put in a new fliud drive to gearbox.
Ive not even mentioned the front plate as its already done in mine.
Its a quick fix. It might only last a year, it might last 10, but thats a year of not forking out on a new engine and saving for a newer car.
We own these p38s because we are skint. Im looking forward to the day i have a L322 on the drive and so is the wife. I like the early L322 as its an absolute classic design and in my eyes super inside. I had the joy of running around in one after my P38 was t boned lightly and in for repair 8 years ago.
In therory if you had a gap at the top and fixed the liner it should self heel with the combustion solids and oil .
 
Willos said:
SD1 ebay sales has them £40 delivered inc vodka and tonic.
But if you go that far you think to yourself, well might as well put in new pistons.
While im at it have new little ends, and just to top it off re grind the crank.
Arr those those tappets are a little loose on the top. Just a little off the heads to make sure and regrind valves in and new oil seals.
Thats me as i would not put a new componant in and put all the old gear back.
This when it mounts up. £1000 becomes £3000. When its off might as well put in a new fliud drive to gearbox.
Ive not even mentioned the front plate as its already done in mine.
Its a quick fix. It might only last a year, it might last 10, but thats a year of not forking out on a new engine and saving for a newer car.
We own these p38s because we are skint. Im looking forward to the day i have a L322 on the drive and so is the wife. I like the early L322 as its an absolute classic design and in my eyes super inside. I had the joy of running around in one after my P38 was t boned lightly and in for repair 8 years ago.
In therory if you had a gap at the top and fixed the liner it should self heel with the combustion solids and oil .
Click to expand...

Would be the first time new little end bearings had been fitted to a Rover V8. :D:D:D
 
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