Hi, glad you found the leak, was pretty sure it would be the rad. The genuine part is about £340, so that plus £100 to fit it doesn't sound too bad.

But Island 4x4 have got one listed as OEM for £165 so if they are buying that one and charging you almost £400 to fit it then they are taking the pi55.

Make sure that they put the same type of organic acid coolant back in and not silicate based coolant as they don't get on well together.
 
been reading on the internet about radweld etc.. because that was my first thought but after reading a number of forum posts the majority of people were saying that it is not good for the BMW engine that in my range rover and the land rover trained garage i took it too said that it was bad for the engine, i dont want to cause any other problems, so i think i will bite the bullet and get the rad changed :( After all it is 7 years old and it more than likely got the sediment problem at the bottom of the rad which could cause problems with the transmission overheating in the future if not addressed eventually.

Ok, logical thought i suppose ref the sludge build up. Cannot see how it could be unsuitable for the BMW unit in particular, as it cannot possibly block any part of the water jacket. I am sure the Land Rover trained garage would much rather charge you £405.00 for fitting a new rad than pouring in five quids worth of Stop leak. Radweld is not the only product that would do the job. But you have the last say in the matter.
 
Ok, logical thought i suppose ref the sludge build up. Cannot see how it could be unsuitable for the BMW unit in particular, as it cannot possibly block any part of the water jacket. I am sure the Land Rover trained garage would much rather charge you £405.00 for fitting a new rad than pouring in five quids worth of Stop leak. Radweld is not the only product that would do the job. But you have the last say in the matter.
They are gonna say oooh buy a bit from us, i personally would go with the radweld/stop leak as well!
 
They are gonna say oooh buy a bit from us, i personally would go with the radweld/stop leak as well!

Many people have had problems with this sort of cure because they don't do it properly. Drain flush, fill with clean water. Get engine warm, apply stop leak run until leak stops. Drain flush, refill with antifreeze. Job done. Like the Irontite stuff if you don't drain and flush before you put it in it can react with the antifreeze and clog the entire system up. Then the engine over heats even more and warps something. I am convinced a lot of the problems on here are caused by happy amatuers playing with something they just do not understand most of the time.
 
Can't you take it back to the dealer? If your handy with spanners why not have a bash yourself?

Hi Rob

Have spoken to the dealer as we pointed this drip out to them the very first time we looked at the car, they said they have tried to find the leak and they couldn't see anything! thats a lie!!! because dried on antifreeze can be clearly seen on the rad and the dealer saw the drip on the floor under that car before we took it away, bet they found the problem and thought it needs a new rad and that would be too expensive to replace!! so im hoping that when i phone the warranty company up on monday that the rad replacement will be covered! I would have had a go my self, found a replacement genuine rad online for £200 and then the cost of antifreese £40-£50 thats like £250 but i just haven't got the time to repair the problem as i need it to get to work, so i have decided that i will get the garage to do it, mean time i have no car at the moment because i cant drive it case it overheats!! and I wouldn't want that to happen!!

Oh well, I suppose thats what happens when you own a land/range rover! lol im hoping that this is just a blip and after this it should be ok :)

Matt
 
I'm sure it should be covered. If it helps I have a slight oil leak from the rocker cover I think. Going to get the dealer to sort it on mon hopefully. Fingers crossed.
 
Hi Rob

Have spoken to the dealer as we pointed this drip out to them the very first time we looked at the car, they said they have tried to find the leak and they couldn't see anything! thats a lie!!! because dried on antifreeze can be clearly seen on the rad and the dealer saw the drip on the floor under that car before we took it away, bet they found the problem and thought it needs a new rad and that would be too expensive to replace!! so im hoping that when i phone the warranty company up on monday that the rad replacement will be covered! I would have had a go my self, found a replacement genuine rad online for £200 and then the cost of antifreese £40-£50 thats like £250 but i just haven't got the time to repair the problem as i need it to get to work, so i have decided that i will get the garage to do it, mean time i have no car at the moment because i cant drive it case it overheats!! and I wouldn't want that to happen!!

Oh well, I suppose thats what happens when you own a land/range rover! lol im hoping that this is just a blip and after this it should be ok :)

Matt

If you pointed the leak out to the dealer you bought it from, before you bought it. It is for him to make it good under sale of goods act. Unless there is a written as seen and approved agreement.
 
Hi All

so i decided that i needed to get the drip/leak checked out, did a test my self to work out what the fluid was and it turns out it is the coolant so on the way home tonight took it in to a small independent land rover garage about 2 minutes from my house and got them to check it out. First thing he did was check the rad and sure enough just under the cooling fan cowling there was pink fluid staining the rad where it has been leaking and has dried on the core. So to cut a long story short it needs a new rad (only had the car 2 days!! well annoyed) £405 to change it with a new rad does this sound about right (includes the part and labour). Its going in tomorrow for a full coolant system pressure check before the rad change on monday, hope the check goes ok and dosent show any other problems up with the coolant system!


Matt

If you have only had it 2 days, and you bought it from a dealer, take it back. A product has to be of "saleable quality" and fit for purpose. If not the dealer is liable under the sale of goods act for 6 months from the date of sale if memory serves me correctly. In some cases liability can extend to 3 years:D Make the buggers pay:D:D:D
 
If you have only had it 2 days, and you bought it from a dealer, take it back. A product has to be of "saleable quality" and fit for purpose. If not the dealer is liable under the sale of goods act for 6 months from the date of sale if memory serves me correctly. In some cases liability can extend to 3 years:D Make the buggers pay:D:D:D

I have spoke to the dealer about it and they have said they are going to put a contribution towards fixing the problem by paying for the parts to get it done at a garage near me and i will have to pay for the labour. I cant return the car to the dealer because i cant drive it in the condition it is in at the moment, and i live in manchester and the dealer is in harrogate about 70 miles away and the dealer said because im too far away he cannot arrange to have the car picked up! im not impressed really. And to top it all off i have come to start the car this morning to move it off my drive way and it appears to have a flat battery!! and it only had a new one last november!!! NOT HAPPY THIS MORNING! :mad:
 
Matt,

Seriously mate .....This "Garage" is pushin you over a barrel & shovin something up yer rear end...

THEY are OBLIGATED under the SALE OF GOODS ACT to repair ANY & ALL faults within a specific time period .... this Rangie you bought falls under the "Not Fit for Purpose" regulation .....

Ring them up on Monday & tell them they either collect it ASAP or they'll be hearing from Manchester Trading Standards Dept .........

I KNOW how you feel mate ..(I've been there) you used to look outta yer front lounge window & think "WOW" THATS MINE!!!....NOW you look out & think "Oh Christ I hope it starts /doesn't go wrong again in the morning"!!!!!
 
Seriously do not **** arse around. Ok, if it was a little wet spot that could be fixed by tightening a clip then I wouldnt worry too much, but the rad is shagged leaving it undriveable and to top it all a flat battery !!!. Swap places, get the dealer over the aforementioned barrel and shaft him up the "scuse me".

Here is another link to a top site with some sound people and advice . You have the law on your side and can make it very uncomfortable and very expensive for him. Start off by keeping a very careful log of all phone calls to the dealer, any expenses you incur and the time frame. Give them a reasonable time to sort it and if they dont, fire off a "Notice before action" letter. I guarantee you will get it fixed without cost to yourself.
 
Seriously do not **** arse around. Ok, if it was a little wet spot that could be fixed by tightening a clip then I wouldnt worry too much, but the rad is shagged leaving it undriveable and to top it all a flat battery !!!. Swap places, get the dealer over the aforementioned barrel and shaft him up the "scuse me".

Here is another link to a top site with some sound people and advice . You have the law on your side and can make it very uncomfortable and very expensive for him. Start off by keeping a very careful log of all phone calls to the dealer, any expenses you incur and the time frame. Give them a reasonable time to sort it and if they dont, fire off a "Notice before action" letter. I guarantee you will get it fixed without cost to yourself.

Totally Aggree!!!!


IIRC Matt in one of your first posts you mentioned yer Dad?? was working for VOSA

Get HIM to go in with yer .... FOOK ME they'd CACK their Pants BIG STYLE!!!
 
Totally Aggree!!!!


IIRC Matt in one of your first posts you mentioned yer Dad?? was working for VOSA

Get HIM to go in with yer .... FOOK ME they'd CACK their Pants BIG STYLE!!!

Thats right me dad is a VOSA inspector, since this morning i went and got a battery charger and charged the battery, the car now starts fine (i have started a new thread on the battery problem to try and find out what may have caused it)
 
After a bit of thought this morning i decided to call consumer direct the advice service, and they have said that if it is a wear and tear problem then the dealer is not responsible to pay for the repair but if it was a manufacturing problem then they are responsible, so from speaking to them then really they are saying if the dealer is willing to give a contribution then that is really all i can get.
 
After a bit of thought this morning i decided to call consumer direct the advice service, and they have said that if it is a wear and tear problem then the dealer is not responsible to pay for the repair but if it was a manufacturing problem then they are responsible, so from speaking to them then really they are saying if the dealer is willing to give a contribution then that is really all i can get.


Matt,

They are talkin out of their ARSE or They do NOT KNOW THE FULL Facts

It CANNOT BE CLASSED AS WERAR & TEAR (You've only had the god damned thing 2 Weeks!!!!!) .....

The Vehicle is "NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE" under the sale of goods act .....SIMPLE......... END OF!!!

Things like this **** ME RIGHT OFF!!! They (the Garage) are "Playin on your good nature" ... & trying to wriggle out of their LEGAL RESPONSIBILITIES ....

Read this .....

When you buy goods you enter into a contract with the seller of those goods. Under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 goods must be:

  • 'as described',
  • 'of satisfactory quality', and
  • 'fit for purpose' – this means both their everyday purpose, and also any specific purpose that you agreed with the seller (for example, if you specifically asked for a printer that would be compatible with your computer).
Goods sold must also match any sample you were shown in-store, or any description in a brochure.
Retailer or manufacturer

In most cases, your rights are against the retailer – the company that sold you the product – not the manufacturer, and so you must take any claim against the retailer. However, if you have bought something on hire purchase (HP), it is the HP company that is responsible.
If you think you have a claim under the Sale of Goods Act for one of the reasons above, you have several possible remedies, depending on the circumstances and on what you want done.
If you want to get your money back

If you buy a product that turns out to be faulty, you can choose to 'reject' it: give it back and get your money back. However, the law gives you only a 'reasonable' time to do this – what is reasonable depends on the product and how obvious the fault is. However, even with something like a car, you usually have no more than three to four weeks from when you receive it to reject it.
If you want to get a faulty item replaced or repaired

You have the right to get a faulty item replaced or repaired, if you're happy with this (or if it's too late to reject it). You can ask the retailer to do either, but they can normally choose to do whatever would be cheapest.
Under the Sale of Goods Act, the retailer must either repair or replace the goods 'within a reasonable time but without causing significant inconvenience'. If the seller doesn't do this, you are entitled to claim either:

  • reduction on the purchase price, or
  • your money back, minus an amount for the usage you've had of the goods (called 'recision').
If the retailer refuses to repair the goods, you may have the right to arrange for someone else to repair it, and then claim compensation from the retailer for the cost of doing this.
You have six years to make a claim for faulty goods in England, Wales and Northern Ireland; in Scotland you have five years.
What you need to do to prove your claim

If your claim under the Sale of Goods Act ends up in court, you may have to prove that the fault was present when you bought the item and not, for example, something that was the result of normal wear and tear.
Six months...and counting

If your claim is about a problem that arises within six months of buying the product, it's up to the retailer to prove that the goods were fit for purpose – or 'as described' – when it sold them. It is also responsible for proving that the problem was caused by you (for example, because you had an accident with the item that damaged it). Beyond six months, it's up to you to prove that the problem was the retailer's.
So you may need to prove that the fault was not down to wear and tear or damage you caused, and that the product (or a component) should have lasted longer than it did. To do this you may need an expert's report, for example from an engineer or mechanic.


Note the last Paragraph it is THEM that MUST PROVE the rad WAS NOT leaking when you purchased the Rangie, NOT YOU Proving IT WAS

Go NAIL the arse off em Matt ....YOUR COMPLETELY WITHIN YOU RIGHTS TO DEMAND THE VEHICLE IS COLLECTED & RETURNED TO YOU IN FULL ROADWORTHY CONDITION
 
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