retneprac

retneprac

Well-Known Member
Well I have a great dilemma with the blue beasty. 2004 TD5 110.
Ever since I've owned the 110, the paint on the doors has been peeling off. Front door first, then rear, back panel, now passenger side.

I ask myself if the factory paint job was defective and whether in time the whole vehicle will be effected by peeling layers, or whether it had a respray in a previous life, (found no evidence of it mind) and its that that has failed.

What do I do about it?
Patch it up, see what happens with the rest of vehicle.
Full rub down to clean metal, start again on all paint.
Part rub as prep for a new top coat?

Is it something in terms of a test that can be looked at by a pro to check adhesion between layers?
 

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looks like wrong primer or primer not prep'd properly. I'm no expert in the techniques used on cars but I've seen plenty of boats painted and thats what it looks like.
I would rub it down and top coat again, maybe a test patch on a door. If it doesn't work then strip back.
Is it only 1 side?
 
Its not really orange peely close up, and cant see any of the usual respray tells, very consistent paint inside doors, under bonnet, behind trims etc.

Was said once as its index doesn't sometimes show up on those automated reg finder websites that it was Keith Gott dealer ex MOD but never deployed vehicle.
 
I'm a firm believer in doing a job once and doing it properly so you don't have to come back to it. I think it also depends on what you use it for. I had mine done about two years ago. Since then I have been careful not to get it scratched by bushes whilst off roading in the forest etc. Before I never gave it a thought. If it were mine and I were going to keep it I think I would go for a full rub down to metal. They do look nice when they are done up properly.
 
2nd that, looks like a respray over a greasy surface or without an etch or key primer. Also looks like topcoat not keyed to primer. I wouldn't trust it as a base withour rubbing the lot down to see what is fixed.
 
No expert, but defo looks a resparay, what lies beneath the grey primer?

Seen it before, too fine a grit used on the primer.

For a solid colour I believe no more than 500 grit wet or dry, but ideally 340/400 D/A dry.

(dual action random orbit)
 
Last edited:
retneprac said:
Its not really orange peely close up, and cant see any of the usual respray tells, very consistent paint inside doors, under bonnet, behind trims etc.

Was said once as its index doesn't sometimes show up on those automated reg finder websites that it was Keith Gott dealer ex MOD but never deployed vehicle.
Click to expand...
I think if you want a job to look good and last you have to go back to bare metal and good quality etch primer as the first coat,then a good primer filler that's compatible with whatever paint You'll use for final coatsThe secret is all in the preparations, if you get that right the rest is much easier
 
retneprac said:
Well I have a great dilemma with the blue beasty. 2004 TD5 110.
Ever since I've owned the 110, the paint on the doors has been peeling off. Front door first, then rear, back panel, now passenger side.

I ask myself if the factory paint job was defective and whether in time the whole vehicle will be effected by peeling layers, or whether it had a respray in a previous life, (found no evidence of it mind) and its that that has failed.

What do I do about it?
Patch it up, see what happens with the rest of vehicle.
Full rub down to clean metal, start again on all paint.
Part rub as prep for a new top coat?

Is it something in terms of a test that can be looked at by a pro to check adhesion between layers?
Click to expand...

That has been resprayed for sure and not very well, the top-coat is not that well done, and the flaking just confirms it, that not a factory paint job.

Bad job. Poor prep, contamination the list goes on.

Only way to fix this is to rub it down to factory paint which you know will have adhered properly, you could go further and bare metal it but I don't think that is required, you could then use barcoat as a precaution, then prime it well - you may need to use a high-build if you end up with level issues due to sanding back to original coats and maybe finding repairs etc.
 
retneprac said:
...and can't see any of the usual respray tells, very consistent paint inside doors, under bonnet, behind trims etc.
Click to expand...

My 90 would look like that too - it was totally taken to pieces and each panel re-sprayed all round. There are only 2 small signs on the whole job that it was re-sprayed that most people don't find.
 
discomania said:
My 90 would look like that too - it was totally taken to pieces and each panel re-sprayed all round. There are only 2 small signs on the whole job that it was re-sprayed that most people don't find.
Click to expand...
The best way I know is to lift the window rubbers a bit,you can usualy see the edges of the old and new paint
 
What happens if you blast it with a pressure washer? My early attempts at spraying looked just like your pics after a while and were for the same reasons as everyone has said. Ignorance in my case, but the effect was the same and a pressure wash could lift the paint off in sheets. I've learnt the lesson.....don't use a pressure wash..;). No, a rub down to solid primer/bare metal is the only way.
 
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