Replaced the fuel pipe from the fuel pump to the carb incorporating an inline filter but not enough fuel seems to be getting through. The filter stays virtually empty, replaced the fuel pump as thought this was the fault but no improvement.
Am I missing something :( obvious . Any checks I can do?
Help greatly needed by desperate novice in the Plymouth area, tempted to give up and flog it
Series 3 109 petrol 1975?:confused:
 
was it ok before you put yer filter in?
have you put it the right way round?
have you checked the pick up in the tank?
would you like to see my picture of a cheese sandwich?
did you replace it with proper fuel line?
 
After reading you reply Slob I feel the need to eat.
You should go in to advertising with a subliminal message like that.:)
 
are ya sure theres feul innit ?? and im just over the water from ya in saltash but i aint no help to no 1
 
Thanks for the pointers.
Stripped everything back and started again, I now have fuel going through with the added bonus of air bubbles as viewed through the inline filter.
Don't think this is right but it leaves me to work on the bigger problem, non starter.

Anyone passing that wants to lend a hand would be greatly appreciated, as starting to get a little "peed-off"

Original fault, main spring breaks on starter, replace starter.
Trouble starting so replace plugs leads, battery, selonoid, earth cables, coil, dist cap,ignition switch, points and condenser.
Sort of runs for a week then non starter, dead selonoid, replace selonoid.
Sort of runs again then non starter. Call out a car electrician and he informs me the starter is pulling to much amps and has electrically welded the contacts in the the selonoid. Replace starter and selonoid.
Attempt to have timing done at garage, and informed that there are no timing marks so adjusted by ear, runs like a bag of crap. Hence the fuel problem. Replace fuel pump and lines. strip and reassemble.
Today; Timing played with again with no success so replace the complete distributer. Still trouble starting, the starter is whirring around but it just won't spring to life. Smoke comes from the engine mount earth, replace cable but the starter is dead. Both the starter and the coil got hot when trying to start. :( :confused:
Reckon its the starter again drawing to much current and not leaving enough for the ignition system. Given up for today.
Where do I start ? Obviously with a replacement starter, then what?
Idiots guide please, or a decent offer to take it away;)
 
check all yer connections are clean and dry and tight including where the starter is bolted in. if as yer sparky says yer drawing to much **** then you have a high resistance somewhere, most likely a bad earth.
if you have a multi meter to hand its easy enough to check
 
Pray tell slob...
how does high resistance lead to excess current?

when I went to school, ohms law was I=V/R
 
are ya sure theres feul innit ?? and im just over the water from ya in saltash but i aint no help to no 1

ahhhh that explains it sweets

if yer in saltash, yer aint proper cornish - yer just a plymouth chav who's crossed the water...;)
 
because laddo if yer connects int good then it has to do more work to complete the circuit there by causing things to heat up. hot things have less resistance than cold things so you get current increase.
 
or if you want a slighty more technican reason then try this

P = V I substituting for V we get P = IR I, or P = I2R
What this equation tells you is that the power consumed by the wires increases if the resistance of the wires increases (for instance, if the wires get smaller or any connections are loose or of a high resistance). But it increases dramatically if the current going through the wires increases. So using a higher voltage to reduce the current can make electrical systems more efficient. The efficiency of electric motors also improves at higher voltages.

This improvement in efficiency is what is driving the automobile industry to adopt a higher voltage standard. Carmakers are moving toward a 42-volt electrical system from the current 12-volt electrical systems. The electrical demand on cars has been steadily increasing since the first cars were made. The first cars didn't even have electrical headlights; they used oil lanterns. Today cars have thousands of electrical circuits, and future cars will demand even more power. The change to 42 volts will help cars meet the greater electrical demand placed on them without having to increase the size of wires and generators to handle the greater current.
 
P=VI, not necessarily. Actually that only applies in a DC system. In an AC system P = VI Cos(no theta on my KB) where Cos equals the phase angle between the current and the voltage. Usually expressed as between 0.1 and unity (but a unity power factor is generally unnattainable) Got lots more useless information if you want it.

Nothing that clever about DC
Did you know that most aleternators generate 3 phase AC before the rectifiers?
 
so wot bits on a landy are ac then rev?
other than the pre-rectifier bit in the alternator?
 
Er nothing actually, UNLESS you have an inverter!
Actually some cars have an nAC winding output specifically for heavy drain items like the HRW which dont matter if its AC or DC. I know of some Vauxhalls that are like this.
 

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