Gord Wedman · May 15, 2021

I think I would also change any fuel filters and open up the carb to see if there is any sludge or dirt in the float bowl. If that was the case a thorough cleaning would be on order. No use getting frustrated trying to start it if the carb is bunged up.

Shippers · May 15, 2021

Colthebrummie said:
once you get the engine turning by hand, change the oil and filter, do as @Flossie recommends and try starting it but dont rev the tatters off it. if it runs without any unusual noises and you can get it to idle smoothly it should be ok. you'll need to change the coolant before using it.

Col

@Flossie didnt say start it just spin the starter to check compresion which is what I would do as well...

border · May 15, 2021

Hoping it will turn freely and hopefully start,
If it needs rebuilding or anything else technical will have to find someone to do the job,

Blackburn · May 16, 2021

Inspect the plugs in the block water ways especially the rear ones as its an engine out job to replace

border · May 16, 2021

Can't get that bloody thing till tomorrow night now.

border · May 17, 2021

Well here it is, now correct me if Im wrong but if it was up to me I would have left the thing in the shed to rust away a bit more

Seized solid not even any oil in the dam thing. but my mate who knows a lot more then I do says its not really that bad, took it all apart says it should start to move eventually and will be good to go again with a few new bits.
Was nearly gonna bite the bullet and put a bigger offer for the ebay one but just got a 650 quid vet bill to pay for my little dog tomorrow.
Anyway whats youre verdicts, the pics make it look better but to me its a pile of scrap

Shippers · May 17, 2021

I am now getting the impression you are not spanner wise...how do you know its seized solid?...to be honest take the head off and have a look at the bores and pistons and go from there...how much does a head gasket cost!!...

Flossie · May 17, 2021

Everything is savable, at a cost. Strip the rest down and remove the crank.
Hopefully the rust damage hasn't got down there. Looks like the head was already off? Water shouldn't get there with the head on normally unless the head gasket had gone or the head is cracked.

Shippers · May 17, 2021

Only got your first pic before I posted my last reply...

marjon · May 17, 2021

How many other boxes of bits did you get

.

It’s all fixable

J

border · May 17, 2021

Shippers said:
I am now getting the impression you are not spanner wise...how do you know its seized solid?...to be honest take the head off and have a look at the bores and pistons and go from there...how much does a head gasket cost!!...

Definatley not when it comes to engines, just cant see what he sees.

Flossie said:
Everything is savable, at a cost. Strip the rest down and remove the crank.
Hopefully the rust damage hasn't got down there. Looks like the head was already off? Water shouldn't get there with the head on normally unless the head gasket had gone or the head is cracked.

It was whole when we got it we stripped it down tonight , well he did. Im sure he took the crank out , left it soaking so might move a little tomorrow.

Shippers · May 17, 2021

border said:
Definatley not when it comes to engines, just cant see what he sees.

It was whole when we got it we stripped it down tonight , well he did. Im sure he took the crank out , left it soaking so might move a little tomorrow.

If the crankshaft is out there is nothing left to turn the pistons over so if theyre stuck block of wood and hammer them out... As said before everything is fixable...

border · May 17, 2021

Shippers said:
If the crankshaft is out there is nothing left to turn the pistons over so if theyre stuck block of wood and hammer them out... As said before everything is fixable...

Yes thats what mate said about the block of wood.
So whats the best options if things start to move ? Do I start buying new pistons rings ect, or do we just clean this lot back up. ?

Blackburn · May 17, 2021

Buy nothing till you have the pistons out to inspect bores top of block and cylinder head.
Is there a lip in the bores with the piston down near the top?

border · May 17, 2021

Blackburn said:
Buy nothing till you have the pistons out to inspect bores top of block and cylinder head.
Is there a lip in the bores with the piston down near the top?

No lip they feel nice and smooth , if this Is fixable would really like someone that has done it before to put it all back together , and maybe paint the engine like Turners do, but not at Turners prices though

Shippers · May 17, 2021

border said:
No lip they feel nice and smooth , if this Is fixable would really like someone that has done it before to put it all back together , and maybe paint the engine like Turners do, but not at Turners prices though

No problem stick it on a pallet and send it here to Portugal and we will rebuild it to factory spec...at your cost though...

border · May 17, 2021

Shippers said:
No problem stick it on a pallet and send it here to Portugal and we will rebuild it to factory spec...at your cost though...

I Wish

Flossie · May 18, 2021

Once the pistons are out ,crank removed, valves removed from the head, take block, head, crank to a friendly engine reconditioning place to get them to..
Measure bore wear.
Measure crank wear.
Inspect head.
Worse case is rebore which means all new pistons or even worse, liners need fitting.
Crank may need a grind with oversize shell bearings.
Head might be cracked( they can test for that) valve seats might need replacing ( worth doing anyway for unleaded petrol) new valves too.
Get them to quote for these jobs then price up the pistons/shells etc yourself and decide what to do from there.
That engine is simple to assemble correctly with help from us on here and a Haynes manual.

border · May 18, 2021

Flossie said:
Once the pistons are out ,crank removed, valves removed from the head, take block, head, crank to a friendly engine reconditioning place to get them to..
Measure bore wear.
Measure crank wear.
Inspect head.
Worse case is rebore which means all new pistons or even worse, liners need fitting.
Crank may need a grind with oversize shell bearings.
Head might be cracked( they can test for that) valve seats might need replacing ( worth doing anyway for unleaded petrol) new valves too.
Get them to quote for these jobs then price up the pistons/shells etc yourself and decide what to do from there.
That engine is simple to assemble correctly with help from us on here and a Haynes manual.

Going to look for somewhere local to me that can do the job

Colthebrummie · May 18, 2021

At least the engine is out, that's half the work done. These engines were/are more robust than many modern engines and can take a fair bit of abuse and crack handed maintenance. I think the worst it will need to get running will be a set of new piston rings. If my compression figures are anything to go by, I have a worn cylinder but it runs well enough for me not to worry about it, yes it smokes a little bit and it's not keen on steep hills but chugging slowly up hills is part of its 40 odd year old charm. There is a steepish hill near me that slows it down to 40 mph, foot to the floor so that's not too bad. Do you know why it was parked up in the first place?

Col

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads