neilly said:
Have alook here, there are 3 in the

Cheers
Click to expand...

Thankyou. very informative. There is very small play in splines.

Think the best thing as you say.. Is get someone who knows them to tell me what whole prop shaft i need is.

I could prob remove and fit new one on myself. Once i know what i need.

Goin to spend the new year sorting it all out properly.

Cheers bud
 
Around £75 for a new one. Phone paddocks and give your vin number and they will get you the right one. Get the bolts as well. Fit prop and it is all done. If you can work a spanner, you can diy. Grease joints and then grease them at service times and they will last.
 
Gmacz said:
Around £75 for a new one. Phone paddocks and give your vin number and they will get you the right one. Get the bolts as well. Fit prop and it is all done. If you can work a spanner, you can diy. Grease joints and then grease them at service times and they will last.
Click to expand...

£75 For a wide angle prop? as he says he has a lift.

Cheers
 
Spanner that want is a 9/16" there is a special tool that you can buy which also helps. If you lived closer you could borrow mine. I always cut them out of the yoke with an angle grinder and put them in using a vice.
 
@Gmacz

If he dos have a lift then quoting a vin number to paddocks and fitting a std prop may not be the best advice!

Just saying. IMHO it would be better to have semone look and confirm or measure to check.

Cheers
 
Barring the UJ is F0000000Ked I don't think it has much lift ! 1" at most ! BLUE springs if my memory is right give 1" lift !! :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
So if yu bin a good ikle boy santa may fetch yu a GREASE GUN & a NEW PROP !! :):p
 
Definitely don't drive with that prop in that condition. If you need to drive it remove the prop and put diff lock in until you replace it, that is assuming the front prop isn't in the same state:eek:.
 
Strewth! Your truck must be shaking itself to bits!

UJ's are easy to replace, but given the (probable) state of your yokes, it may be too late.
 
Danjo said:
Sent to mot via a normal garage. Its on advisory. Because apparently drive shafts are not part of mot.
Click to expand...

WRONG. The drive shafts are testable, and should have failed, because the hand brake is a transmission brake and operates via the shafts to lock the wheels. It would be OK to pass and advise a normal car with U/Js that bad, with the hand brake operating in the wheel hubs.
David M
 
Toonarf said:
WRONG. The drive shafts are testable, and should have failed, because the hand brake is a transmission brake and operates via the shafts to lock the wheels. It would be OK to pass and advise a normal car with U/Js that bad, with the hand brake operating in the wheel hubs.
David M
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Thats as may be, but it doesn't mean the tester is right, as toonarf pointed out having an intact rear driveshaft is critical to the parking brake working. Imagine a scenario where you are driving up a hill and the shaft fails, apart from the clattering of a loose shaft flailing around (doing untold damage) your instinct would be to stop and put the park brake on. However in this case even with the park brake on the instance you remove your foot from the brake pedal you would start rolling backwards. Leaving it in gear won't make any difference plus you couldn't pull away either. Basically you will be stuck in the vehicle with your foot planted on the brake pedal. The only practical way to stop it rolling is to engage the diff lock and then the parking brake will work (as will leaving it in gear).
 
Kwakerman said:
Thats as may be, but it doesn't mean the tester is right, as toonarf pointed out having an intact rear driveshaft is critical to the parking brake working. Imagine a scenario where you are driving up a hill and the shaft fails, apart from the clattering of a loose shaft flailing around (doing untold damage) your instinct would be to stop and put the park brake on. However in this case even with the park brake on the instance you remove your foot from the brake pedal you would start rolling backwards. Leaving it in gear won't make any difference plus you couldn't pull away either. Basically you will be stuck in the vehicle with your foot planted on the brake pedal. The only practical way to stop it rolling is to engage the diff lock and then the parking brake will work (as will leaving it in gear).
Click to expand...
I see.. Im greatfull for everybodys input. Im just an inexperienced 4×4 owner relying on what im told . And just from this thread im learning a lot. I didnt even know what uj's were or that they have grease nipples lol.

No idea why it passed when it clearly states its dangerous.. the other bits it failed on i paid to get sorted.
Will be going with what Neilly said and get someone who knows landys to tell me what whole new prop i need.. and now i know how often i should grease them
 
Danjo said:
I see.. Im greatfull for everybodys input. Im just an inexperienced 4×4 owner relying on what im told . And just from this thread im learning a lot. I didnt even know what uj's were or that they have grease nipples lol.

No idea why it passed when it clearly states its dangerous.. the other bits it failed on i paid to get sorted.
Will be going with what Neilly said and get someone who knows landys to tell me what whole new prop i need.. and now i know how often i should grease them
Click to expand...
?
 
Danjo said:
Aye. Im still a novice. So think will have to see a speciallist to find out what prop i need.

Not sure what you mean by splines.

But here is tube link to what the furthest back uj is like.


Cheers
Click to expand...

That is completely fooked . Change before you use it again.
 
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