Snifflebag

Snifflebag

Active Member
So much is said about the VCU and its failings that I decided to do a "line" test. My f.l. seemed to slow quite a lot in tight lock, and being my first vehicle of this type, really didn't know what to expect.

My next problem was where to put the lines?

First off I drew a simple line between the two "bits" (technical term :)) of the VCU expecting them to move apart as the VCU did its stuff. They didn't move so I got depressed :( Not sure why I thought they should move, but they didn't!

So I then put a pair of dots, one either side of of the lumpy bit of the VCU (you can tell my technical knowledge is expanding :)) and just in front of the bearings. This time, after a drive, the dots did move apart by 20-30degrees so should I be happ(ier)? :confused:

My marks are shown in the attached pic...

As a complete newbie, I'm really not sure I'm proving that all is OK or not... any help would be appreciated.
 

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Everyone feels a little paranoid at first over that horrible binding feeling on full lock. Your second set of marks were in the right place and have proved that the VCU hasn't seized. That's as much as any of us can do, just get used to the feeling and check again if you suspect anything changes or you get any hopping/jerking of wheels in tight turns which would indicate that the VCU is no longer slipping.
 
Well thanks both, that has really put my mind at rest.

Might even be brave enough to go off-roading in Bordon tomorrow :D
 
Hi
I done the line test myself today jacked up one rear wheel put the car in gear
And tried to turn the wheel it seems as though it would not turn at least not so I could detect it.
And i started rocking the wheel backwards and forwards had a look at the marks on the vcu and
They had moved about ½ inch should the rear wheel move a bit freer than this or is this normal to put a lot of force behind it to get the vcu to move.
 
What i did notice when I had the car jacked up is when I moved the back wheel bacwards and forwards the rear diff moved up and down a bit is the mount prown to go
 
FRONT MOUNTS PRONE TO SNAPPING JUST BOUGHT A COMPLETE SET OF THREE FOR MINE TODAY ABOUT £50 WITH VAT FROM BROOKWELLS IN DEVON, FITTING ON TUESDAY SUBFRAME SOMETIMES APPARENTLY NEEDS SOME SORT OF ELDING NOT TO SURE ABOUT THIS THOUGH MADHATMAN Can you shed any light on this issue for me?
 
I can.....
firstly - try not to shout - i can hear ya.:rolleyes:
secondly - look in the general Q's bit - its all in there - everything a Gay..oops..Freelander owner could want.
 
Snifflebag said:
My marks are shown in the attached pic...

As a complete newbie, I'm really not sure I'm proving that all is OK or not... any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Easy mistake to make - I did it too - consulted rave guide and was soon back on track. Useful pic for others though - good man!
 
Hi ?Gazza. Yeah the mounts can be changed without removing the diff. watched the guys whilst they did took about 1 hour in total. did need the use of pry bars though to push the diff over to get the front one out/in. thinking of a two inch lift kit now about £230 with the camber pins.
 
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