biker1981 · Jan 18, 2011

Hi,

I want to protect my landy as much as possible. This weekend when climbing around it and pretending to know what i was doing.

I had power washed the chassis and was now dry, my mate gave me 10 litres of black hammerite paint. so started painting the bits f bare chassis I could see etc.

WWill this help protect the chassis as good as wax oil, or am I just playing around and should hang up my paint brush... nto to mention trailing hammerite through the kitchen

MLangford2 · Jan 18, 2011

Waxoil definately the best bet for any chassis - including galvanised!

But only worth it if your dealing with a good chassis to start with, hammerite isn't a bad bet if your just delaying the inevitable with already shot metal, but really isn't much cop if your trying to protect decent metal. POR 15 is often rated highly.

Advice would be to have a search on these forums - this is always coming up, and i'm only (incorrectly i'm sure) repeating what has been said countless times before.

Matt

G-man · Jan 18, 2011

i prefer to clean the chassis with de-greaser, then use a wire twist brush to clean all the surface corrosion and old paint off, do any repairs needed, then paint with anti-corrosion paint finally coat in chassis black and wax the inside of the chassis

of course this requires the vehicle to be stripped back to the chassis

peter8315 · Jan 18, 2011

i would prepare any rusty area's with either wire brush or angle grinder then paint it with red lead, then put your hammerite on it, and then get some gearbox oil either new or used and paint that on, gearbox oil has a rurst inhibitor in it and keeps the moisture out if you look under any car van or landy around the gearbox is allways solid

auto · Jan 18, 2011

Rustoleum far better than hammerite!

Ideally, you will need some rust inhibitor,painted on first, and then coat with a good layer of rusto. If you use light colours, then you can see any problem areas in the future.

Red Oxide and Chassis enamel is a common choice too.

Wire wheel the surface as clean as you can get it, use sandpaper for the top of the chassis if the body is staying on. When painting just use brush/gun and for top a paint pad without the handle.

dirtyrhino · Jan 18, 2011

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/chassis-protection-129982.html

mo_sizlac · Jan 19, 2011

Hi, I've just finished sorting my chassis, jet wash, drill brush wheel, steel wool, then degreaser. Lots of elbow grease, took me probably 20 hours to get the chassis ready for painting. Painted it with Watyl Rustkill (only had a little surface rust here and there) then painted it with Por15 chassis black, the painting mebbe another 15 hours. Just got to use the pad to do the tops of the chassis rails - had to do it body on unfortunately!
Was well worth it, should be good for another 30 years!

Tom87 · Jan 19, 2011

Everyone seems to have their own preference on chassis protection, but if you're taking the time to strip the Landy down to the chassis you may as well do the job as properly and permanently as you can.

I'm in the process of stripping my 2A down to just rolling chassis, bulkhead and engine, and I'm gonna attack it in similar fashion to what's been said above: clean, sand, (weld if needed), degrease, and then a couple of coats of POR-15, and finally packing the inside areas with wax oyl.

Hammerite isn't a bad way to do it but there are other products out there which last a lot longer.

biker1981

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