I'm getting to the point where I reckon it might be time to give my Landy a lick of paint.

It's in a limestone/desert colour at the moment and I think looks good. I'd just like to spuce it up. It looks like the paint that is on it is some kind of 2-pac thing but very badly applied...In some places it is very very thick and has cracked/flaked away. In others (deluxe bonnet) it is over a green paint and looks to have been sprayed straight on and will blow away with a pressure wash!

I was thinking of using something like the NATO desert stuff here: MARCUS GLENN

Not sure what sort of a finish I'll get with a roller? Will it be very matt or fairly shiny? I've applied roller stuff to a bus before so was going to sand back as far as I need to get a solid footing then go over everything with etch, then straight onto this paint....is that right? Will one tin do the whole motor or should I get two? Is there a better paint that would give a nice finish using rollers?

I've also spotted some appaling welding on my chassis. The whole front section on one side seems to be held together by a 1" weld the rest is not joined up correctly...this has led to a big jagged crack forming! After I've plated it all up and straightened out. What is a good primer/undercoat/paint combination? I've got a small amount of POR-15 but its bloody expensive!

Cheers

D

i used a roller on mine last summer, i sanded down as much as possible, went over any bare metal with etch primer then went over it with a high build primer and sanded that, then i used this paint

Landrover Vehicle Paint 2.5Ltr-5Ltr Cans - All Colours | eBay

i did about 6 coats sanding in between with 600, 800, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit paper, i got a really good finish. the most important thing is the prep, loads of sanding.

i bought the gloss, it gives a good shine to it, obviously not show room finish but it looks good, well worth it think i spent about 80 quid in total.

one more thing i bought the 5L tin and i did a 109 and there was loads left, the 2.5L tin would be enough for 3-5 coats if thinned with white spirit.


hope that helps

i sprayed mine with one of those electric spray guns from argos for about £70 pound, and spent about £15 on gloss from the local hardware shop. That was about 4 years ago now and it wants doing again. Looked stunning when i done it and i have never sprayed before.

Why does it need doing again so soon?

Thanks lads,

Philsefo, I might go with the paint you recommend. Other option which looks cheap, and more importantly, easy is Rustoleum: http://www.rustoleum.co.uk/colourselect/1/19

Thing is I've now settled on keeping it all limestone but their closest is RAL1015 which on screen looks a bit too dark. Is hard to tell really....

Cheers

Dom

Land Raver said:

Why does it need doing again so soon?

Click to expand...

left it parked under trees for 2 years and the shine has gone and the branches scratched the paint off lol

dominicbeesley said:

Thanks lads,

Philsefo, I might go with the paint you recommend. Other option which looks cheap, and more importantly, easy is Rustoleum: http://www.rustoleum.co.uk/colourselect/1/19

Thing is I've now settled on keeping it all limestone but their closest is RAL1015 which on screen looks a bit too dark. Is hard to tell really....

Cheers

Dom

Click to expand...

I know a lot of folk who've used Rustoleum and think it's excellent - rolling with Rusto on VW campers is very popular. I don't think it is as good as Tekaloid which is still the best transport paint available [albeit not as widely as it used to be].

I rollered the valance on a car for the first time two summers ago and i was amazed how quick it was. I have done spraying in the past but rollering one me over - it's so quick and a good finish. Important to use a quality roller sleeve though. There is one by Fathog called a Glosser - an excellent finish and no orangepeel which is what it's designed for. Foam will give you orangepeel but a light final roll... just like the light final stroke of a paint brush makes all the difference.

I'm going to consider Rustoleum shortly as i can get it locally - the alternative is driving 40 miles or post [which is expensive with paint]. RAL 1015 is the closest to Limestone. For paint with less fade the best pigments are in BS colours [BS 381 or 4800] - i'll be using 10B15 creamy white or 10C31 on my 109 and 20D40 Midnight on the 88. Not original colours but these won't fade anything like them [compare BS masonry paint with Sandtex and similar - i stay with BS for every kind of paint]. I wouldn't worry too much about original paint colour as after a couple of years they've faded anyway. Limestone, along with Aircraft Blue fade dreadfully - i compared 10B15 with weathered Limestone and it's pretty close.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/how-hand-paint-landy-pictures-152225.html

How I did mine.

Thanks bebby, my mate's got a cheapo paint sprayer, will see how well that works but to be honest I'm a cack handed bugger at the best of times so will probably stick to rollers as I've used them before semi-successfully. Every time I try and spray anything it goes wrong!

Thanks landrover11019, I'd seen your thread and will be doing it pretty much like you did.

Jessejezza, thanks for the advice...My last option is to go to the local paint factors and get it colour matched to an unfaded bit of the interior. I'm a lazy git and don't want to have to paint the insides!

I'm still not sure what to paint the chassis with though? Red oxide and then rustoleum?

D