Thanks for the explanation. I have a switch so will just leave the fuse blown and fit fwd/aft switch directly to motor.

The reason for the key fob stopping working until the key was reused in the ignition is not understood. Problem is, if the pos does it again when at the mot, I will have to add a switch for that.

Going to think about it but it may just be time to move on.
 
pwood999 said:
Where are you ? Someone nearby may be able to help sort it ?
Click to expand...
Yes, it does sound solvable...the seat on mine blew the fuse when I first got it. Iirc correctly it turned out to be a short on the lumbar support pump. Temp solution was to depin the relevant wire from the connector under the seat, until I cd be bothered to pull the seat apart for a permanent fix.
 
doriz said:
My fuel cap is normally vacuumed on when I go to the pumps. Can’t imagine it would fall of even if it didn’t have a thread :D
Click to expand...

Odd. Not even the v8 drinks that much. Which model and year?

Later petrols have a valve that opens to allow vapour to be pulled ifrom a carbon filter trap nto the intake and burnt but it shouldn't be open all the time.
 
pwood999 said:
Where are you ? Someone nearby may be able to help sort it ?
Click to expand...

I have soldered up a dpdt (on) off (on). It will pick up power from the seat fuse box, has its own fuse. I will cut the wb and bw from the seat outstation to the seat. The motor end of the leads will be connected to my switch, the other ends taped up. I could go straight to the motor
I've had my retest (fuel flap let me down) so it's time to pay for a new mot. I'm considering taking the fuel flap off - just in case the car stops recognising the key during the mot (it's never done this before)
 
Grrrrrr said:
Odd. Not even the v8 drinks that much. Which model and year?

Later petrols have a valve that opens to allow vapour to be pulled ifrom a carbon filter trap nto the intake and burnt but it shouldn't be open all the time.
Click to expand...
My 4.6 Thor takes a HUGE intake of breath when I remove the petrol filler cap...likely because I have it running on fumes before driving to refuel.
 
easy-shaft said:
First time, the tester couldn't find the flap button, so could not check the cap.

I spent the weekend removing the seat and looking for the reason for f10 blowing. Could not find a fault, used a 10a fuse instead of a 30a to check for fault. NFF but cable carefully rerouted. Reassembled and the fuse did not blow in 30 mins - great.

The instant I started the engine today, f10 (now the correct 30a) blew.
Changed it, seat worked.

Fetched mot tester to see these two points.... Door would not unlock with fob, it did before, but now the fuel cap would not open. 5 mind later, it will. Must be something to do with fob not unlocking the door.

So, I've bought short insurance for its two mots, paid for a new battery and chased wiring faults.

I did want to keep this car longer but have now run out of patience.

But just don't know how to get any money back on it. Getting close to scrapping it as I have little desire to deal with it.
Click to expand...
Keyfob maybe lost sync until it was read again by the coil on the ignition switch, or the car battery or fob battery is low charge.
Mine unlocks on the fob every time but hardly ever locks on the fob even when it was brand new fob a couple of years ago.
 
alanlucas said:
Keyfob maybe lost sync until it was read again by the coil on the ignition switch, or the car battery or fob battery is low charge.
Mine unlocks on the fob every time but hardly ever locks on the fob even when it was brand new fob a couple of years ago.[/QU
Click to expand...
alanlucas said:
Keyfob maybe lost sync until it was read again by the coil on the ignition switch, or the car battery or fob battery is low charge.
Mine unlocks on the fob every time but hardly ever locks on the fob even when it was brand new fob a couple of years ago.
Click to expand...
Dodgy door lock micro switches or sticky mechanism can cause that.
 
romanrob said:
Yes, it does sound solvable...the seat on mine blew the fuse when I first got it. Iirc correctly it turned out to be a short on the lumbar support pump. Temp solution was to depin the relevant wire from the connector under the seat, until I cd be bothered to pull the seat apart for a permanent fix.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Looking at the wiring diagram, the only unswitched live that is hidden in the seat is (as you say) for the lumber support. As the fuse is blowing without the seat being moved and the visible wiring is not damaged ‐ it seems very likely this is the problem.
 
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