S

SarahP38

Member
Hi P38 newbie here looking for advice.
Have 2001 P38 2.5 diesel auto that drives lovely on the flat although it takes a little time to gets warm but it has no pulling power up hill. Engine light on and showed crank sensor. This was replaced and engine light still on, read no. 4 injector shot so replaced. Engine light now off and all electrical faults clear. Not showing any other faults so any ideas much appreciated. Thanks
 
2 Ton Car, Tiny little 2.5L Diseasel? Not sure if it would be storming up hills.
But someone with proper knowledge will be along shortly. I'm just biased because of the 4.6 Gas-guzzling V8 that's ruining my life and my finances.
 
DanClarke said:
2 Ton Car, Tiny little 2.5L Diseasel? Not sure if it would be storming up hills.
But someone with proper knowledge will be along shortly. I'm just biased because of the 4.6 Gas-guzzling V8 that's ruining my life and my finances.
Click to expand...
Lol at this DanClarke it doesn't do a tonne uphill but it definitely went much better than it does now lol. Milk floats have been known to go quicker than mine at the moment.
 
You will get lots of real help on here SarahP38. This is a smashing bunch of propel.
Alternatively, my P38 4.6HSE is on e-Bay and all yours for only £xxx LOL
 
Check the MAP sensor and its pipe....

The MAP sensor sits on the fuel filter and has a small pipe going to it from under the intake manifold, check MAp sensor port isn't blocked, the pipe isn't blocked and the port under the intake manifold isn't blocked....

The MAP sensor tells the ECU the Manifold Absolute Pressure and it uses this information for fueling information....if it is gummed up or not working they will lack power and not pull.
 
Saint.V8 said:
Check the MAP sensor and its pipe....

The MAP sensor sits on the fuel filter and has a small pipe going to it from under the intake manifold, check MAp sensor port isn't blocked, the pipe isn't blocked and the port under the intake manifold isn't blocked....

The MAP sensor tells the ECU the Manifold Absolute Pressure and it uses this information for fueling information....if it is gummed up or not working they will lack power and not pull.
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Hi Saint.V8 thank you for replying. it has been hooked up to diagnostics which is showing no fault. All the engine and gearbo, filters have been replaced. Would this blockage show on a diagnostic check please. Sorry if obvious to most but I'm new to all this
 
DanClarke said:
You will get lots of real help on here SarahP38. This is a smashing bunch of propel.
Alternatively, my P38 4.6HSE is on e-Bay and all yours for only £xxx LOL
Click to expand...
Lol I'll bear it in mind. Hoping to get some help as thought I'd tried everything :)
 
Shimsteriom said:
While the engine was under proper load, not just revving it while stationary?
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Hi Shimsteriom the first time it was just stationary at the garage. Since then I'm.not sure as I wasnt there. Just been told they've checked it and shows nothing but I will ask tomorrow, thank you
 
Ah right would the blockage cause the engine to rev to around 4000revs before it would change gear to. Seems quite sluggish to change compared to other autos I've driven or is this just a range rover thing?
 
Shimsteriom said:
But shirly the live readings will show an issue with it?
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Unfortunately I'm not reading it myself it's in a garage. The reason I'm enquiring about my issue is I don't want them just to keep investigating without a clue where to start. I believe they are range rover Au fait but don't want to keep throwing money at investigations until I can get an idea of where to go from someone's previous experience.
 
I can relate to that. :)
TBH, if it were me, I'd get it back from the garage, and speak a bit more with the brains on this forum, as advice is much cheaper than garage bills. Do you have any sort of diagnostic equipment yourself, like fault readers etc?
 
The P38 Range Rover in Diesel form has a very strange accelerator pedal travel profile.....it needs quite a lot of movement before they'll really begin to shift - this is to dampen down accidental foot movements from pressing the acelrator while off road.
Given it a prod and they will lift their skirts and scamper away quite merrily.

As for revving up to 4k before changing gear - this is not a P38 trait - it means there is an issue some where.....MAP sensor can cause it as the ECU measure engine output compared to pedal position, if you are pushing further on the pedal to mask the lack of power the ECU will hold the next up change until latter in the rev range to maximise the engine power output.

MAP sensor is the most common fault, but also as you mention above the No.4 injector and Crank Position Sensor can also cause funny running as can a weak in tank pump (which is the second most common low power symptom). Struggling to start with a fuel tank level lower than 1/4 full is a sign of a weak in tank pump.

Quick test is to pull the fuel inlet pipe from the fuel filter and place in a measuring jug, crank for 10 seconds and you get 180ml of fuel in the jug.

Split Leak Off (Spill) pipes can cause poor starting and lack of power - only the lack of power due to split leak off's is not a comon occurance...but won't harm having a look.
 
As above I would also add temperature sender on the head think its the green one ,can play havoc wi the gear changes i believe and poor running.....:eek::)
 
Saint.V8 said:
The P38 Range Rover in Diesel form has a very strange accelerator pedal travel profile.....it needs quite a lot of movement before they'll really begin to shift - this is to dampen down accidental foot movements from pressing the acelrator while off road.
Given it a prod and they will lift their skirts and scamper away quite merrily.

As for revving up to 4k before changing gear - this is not a P38 trait - it means there is an issue some where.....MAP sensor can cause it as the ECU measure engine output compared to pedal position, if you are pushing further on the pedal to mask the lack of power the ECU will hold the next up change until latter in the rev range to maximise the engine power output.

MAP sensor is the most common fault, but also as you mention above the No.4 injector and Crank Position Sensor can also cause funny running as can a weak in tank pump (which is the second most common low power symptom). Struggling to start with a fuel tank level lower than 1/4 full is a sign of a weak in tank pump.

Quick test is to pull the fuel inlet pipe from the fuel filter and place in a measuring jug, crank for 10 seconds and you get 180ml of fuel in the jug.

Split Leak Off (Spill) pipes can cause poor starting and lack of power - only the lack of power due to split leak off's is not a comon occurance...but won't harm having a look.
Click to expand...
Hi Saint.V8 thanks fir this. I think I will give them a ring tomorrow. Any recommendations for s diagnostic I could purchase myself?
 
Nanocom evolution by BlackBox Solutions is by far the most capable and highly recommended device (I have no affiliation)

Good luck with it, lets us know how you get on as that is how we all learn and your updates (even minor) can really help others in need.
 
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