2001 4.0L. Just refurbished eas pump and replaced seals on the eas valve block. When air tank empty the pump now takes about 5 minutes to fill up ( 140psi ) and turn off. When you turn on the ignition, all for lights come on the eas rocker switch, then go off and the light flashes where the height was last set and keeps on flashing. Vehicle is on the bump stops and never seems to rise. Weird thing is, when you switch off the ignition and remove the keys, the front two airbags seem to raise to wading height. Any ideas on how to diagnose the issue?
Not sure, will check! The front air bags can be deflated using my nanacom ( no faults found on the eas system).
When rising the rears always go up first when dropping the fronts always drop first. Valves in wrong places, pipes in wrong places. Yes it is a very simple job but you simply have to do it properly.
Took it all to pieces to check if anything was amiss and checked tubes were all in the correct place ( all seemed to be ok). Noticed that the driver looked as if it had got a bit hot at some point. Replaced with a second hand unit and eas seems to work now. Many thanks for your help.
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Glad it’s helped! Not sure that there is anyway to test the eas driver before you go and spend money on a replacement one. Occasionally you can get one cheaply on an eBay auction, or some of the p38 Facebook groups have recommended breakers that have most things at reasonable prices.
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Your right it is simple, but its also not hard to get it wrong, I screwd up mine by simply forgetting to put all the seals back I forgot some, and put the wrong solenoid in the wrong place
DarthDude
Well-Known Member
Actually the only way is by painstaking elimination of everything else. I started by disconnecting the battery, which removed suspicion from the valve block, air lines and airsprings. Then I recalibrated the ride heights to make sure the values the ECU was going for corresponded to the correct heights according to my newly made calibration blocks, which eliminated the height sensors and a suspected previous bad calibration job and that left only the ECU and driver board. A session of sending all sorts of commands to the ECU from my Faultmate and watching the reactions of the ECU gave me confidence that the ECU was doing its job, leaving only the driver board and the actual wiring between the two.
Forum members did suggest several ways to test just the driver board in isolation which I'll admit I didn't do once I figured the ECU was working just fine and realised my driver board is over 11 years old and even if it turns out to be just fine, I'd want a new one close to hand in any event.
So a new driver board has been ordered from John Craddock but aforesaid BREXIT/Covid (BREvid-19? CoXIT?) delays have kept the order "processing" for about 10 days now. Hope they get it on the move soon!
Either way.... good job fixing yours. Wish me luck with mine, buddy!
