Deer. Stop you ram raiding dinner if someone else knocks it down they must go on (they won’t be going anywhere they be totalled) but you can stop get it.
 
OK update I have changed the viscous unit, the water pump, thermostat, and now a new radiator, and the things still boils

I did a test on the thermostat and it opens and it says on the unit at 82 deg

I have had a cylinder head test done with the blue but no indications, just stayed blue

The thing is the thermostat is not opening on the car, temp get way over 82 as it opened at that in my kitchen

No water leaking from engine, just out of expansion cap when it gets hot

Why is the thermostat not opening ??

HELP :)
 
its a late model, therefore thor engine.
normal engine temp on mine is 91-92c, reaching 95-96c easily when stationary at idle
thermostat opens at 85+/- 5c and is fully open at approx 96c
when the thermostat is part open, the bypass is also part open so only partial flow to the radiator
 
Take out the thermostat and try without.
But I fear you are going into money now:(.

We had very similar, had HGs done and heads skimmed still did it. Strange thing was we could drive 60klm and no issue, then it would suddenly blow up on a short run for no apparent reason, or during the cool down (end of long run).
If you "load " the engine does it do it, Or if you drive sedately?

J
 
Take out the thermostat and try without.
not possible on the thor...
proxy-image
 
The bottom of the radiator is cold, the top is very hot, top hose to the thermostat was hot, bottom hose is cold, when i took the top hose off the pump side of the thermostat (top of Thermostst housing) it was very hot, when I took the bottom hose off the thermostat it was cold ??
 
The bottom of the radiator is cold, the top is very hot, top hose to the thermostat was hot, bottom hose is cold, when i took the top hose off the pump side of the thermostat (top of Thermostst housing) it was very hot, when I took the bottom hose off the thermostat it was cold ??
that sounds normal to me
when the stat is closed, coolant comes along the top hose and diverts down the T to the stat, then back up to the expansion tank
as the stat opens, some coolant flows along top hose into radiator, cools, and enters the bottom of the stat, while hot coolant still flows down the T as the bypass is still open, thus the top half is hot and the bottom half is cold
 
on the plus note, with what you've replaced, the cooling system should be reliable for some time. money well spent

back to the point, is the top hose getting firm to indicate pressure? if not then theres a leak somewhere or the cap is bad
 
on the plus note, with what you've replaced, the cooling system should be reliable for some time. money well spent

back to the point, is the top hose getting firm to indicate pressure? if not then theres a leak somewhere or the cap is bad

back flush the heater matrix ?
 
I have replaced the expansion cap, not sure what is meant by "NOT POSSIBLE ON THE THORE ENGINE" Confused as to why the water should be cold on the bottom of the rad ? was not warm at all just like cold water, surly, if the thermostat is working it should be a little warm

I will back flush the heater matrix next even though I have taken off the pipes and filled them with water, but was not forced, thast's next, but i am fed up working in the rain now need a gin and a shower and in that order

Thanks all for the input, will get this sorted

MaDbRiT
 

Similar threads