S

steve-c

New Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #1

Hi guys,

The rear metal brake pipe split on my p38 diesel 2000 model year. the one which goes across the rear crossmember, ( looks a real bitch to do ) any one done one already ? if so any tips plz..

Cheers Steve..

 

F

fyne1

Active Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #2

No real "tricks" just measure pipes you remove and make acordingly, can make a join where it suits you, and make sure you keep brake pipes clean when you push them through, tape ends. If old pipe is good enough tape string on to it before you pull it out and use this to pull in new one.

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• Mar 20, 2011

• #3

joining pipe is no problem makes it alot easier to do good job,replace with copper or cunifer alot easier to work than steel,or replacement part pipe

 

C

CJF

New Member

• May 23, 2011

• #4

I need this work done myself (LHR line cracked). My mechanic is telling me I need to left the body off the chassis to complete it and that's gonna cost... He doesn't want to make joins in the pipe (says it's not reliable). Any comments guys?

 

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Donater

• May 23, 2011

• #5

CJF said:

I need this work done myself (LHR line cracked). My mechanic is telling me I need to left the body off the chassis to complete it and that's gonna cost... He doesn't want to make joins in the pipe (says it's not reliable). Any comments guys?

Click to expand...

Only one, BULL****. OH, and just to add get yourself another mechanic. The one you have is an out and out plonker.

 

Last edited: May 23, 2011

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• May 23, 2011

• #6

joins in pipe isnt problem you can buy special nuts for the job, i done them for years never a problem lr do it to on other models

 

C

CJF

New Member

• May 23, 2011

• #7

Thanks. Can you recommend a decent LR guy in Ireland. I'm about half way between Dublin and Galway (near Tullamore). No-one I've talked to knows enough about them and I keep getting vague figures thrown at me. Any help would be appreciated.

 

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Donater

• May 23, 2011

• #8

CJF said:

Thanks. Can you recommend a decent LR guy in Ireland. I'm about half way between Dublin and Galway (near Tullamore). No-one I've talked to knows enough about them and I keep getting vague figures thrown at me. Any help would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

Others may know of someone. But if your handy do it yourself, you can get flaring tool, pipe, female/female connectors and tube nuts for less than £35.00 all in.

 

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

• May 23, 2011

• #9

I have the flaring tool, bender and fittings. Possibility I may have enough copper pipe.
Is it the pipe that runs along the body, above the fuel tank or the one that runs along the back axle? It's awkward if it's the one that's partially hidden but definately do-able without too much hassle apart from the ****e dropping on to you !!
Check through my posts, I have covered the procedure previously.

Definately does not involve removing or lifting the body off the chassis for access. If you ask me, your guy does not want the job !!!

 

tclynes

New Member

• May 23, 2011

• #10

mine have started to look a bit tired too, being replaced next week by local specialist, definitely no mention of body being lifted etc! its a simple job i think!

 

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

• May 23, 2011

• #11

pipes under body aint simple job ,its made easier by joining,but not easy

 

D

donp38

Well-Known Member

• Oct 29, 2011

• #12

Just changed all discs and pads. Doing the bedding in drive one of the metal brake pipes has fractured about midway front to rear. On having a good look at the rest, its probably best to get them all changed.
Any idea how long this is going to take a garage? If Automec do a kit I'll suggest we do this.

What does anyone think? Car is in warwickshire, so if anyone knows of a good man let me know also.

thanks.