tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Best get new bolts before you start, not a big job,@Henry_b has just done his , he'll be along soon to advise.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Look at new sliders as well, and if your rear brake pipes from front to over the rear cross member have not changed it would be a good time to do it before they let you down, they corrode badly at the back
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
The rear caliper carrier is held on with 2x 13mm Bi-Hex"12 point" bolts and the caliper is bolted on with a 12mm bolt x2.
Brake line is of course secured with a banjo bolt with 2 copper washers one wither side of the banjo "obvs"
Removal and refitment is easy I'd recommend you get a new banjo bolt and washers just to eliminate any possibility of leakage..
I replaced my rear calipers after the pads wore to such a degree that they fell out. When I pulled the caliper off the piston was close to getting freedom too!!
As for the bleeding of the rear calipers I just gravity bled them, which some will say is the wrong way to do it, but I don't argue with results
When it came time to swap the brake line between the old and new, I removed the bleed nipple from the new caliper to allow maximum flow and then quickly swapped the line over, making sure the brake fluid was topped up I just let the fluid run in/out of the caliper until the fluid ran out without any bubbles, bleed nipple back in and bobs ya auntie..
Brake line is of course secured with a banjo bolt with 2 copper washers one wither side of the banjo "obvs"
Removal and refitment is easy I'd recommend you get a new banjo bolt and washers just to eliminate any possibility of leakage..
I replaced my rear calipers after the pads wore to such a degree that they fell out. When I pulled the caliper off the piston was close to getting freedom too!!
As for the bleeding of the rear calipers I just gravity bled them, which some will say is the wrong way to do it, but I don't argue with results
When it came time to swap the brake line between the old and new, I removed the bleed nipple from the new caliper to allow maximum flow and then quickly swapped the line over, making sure the brake fluid was topped up I just let the fluid run in/out of the caliper until the fluid ran out without any bubbles, bleed nipple back in and bobs ya auntie..
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Many years ago when I did mine I clamped both flexi's,when it was all back together I bled the caliper furthest from the master cylinder first by fitting a tube to the nipple,calm down @Mark Piercy ,got the Boss to put her foot on the brake pedal and momentarily turn the ignition on.it was a long tube so you can see when all the air is pushed out. Repeat for the off side.The rear caliper carrier is held on with 2x 13mm Bi-Hex"12 point" bolts and the caliper is bolted on with a 12mm bolt x2.
Brake line is of course secured with a banjo bolt with 2 copper washers one wither side of the banjo "obvs"
Removal and refitment is easy I'd recommend you get a new banjo bolt and washers just to eliminate any possibility of leakage..
I replaced my rear calipers after the pads wore to such a degree that they fell out. When I pulled the caliper off the piston was close to getting freedom too!!
As for the bleeding of the rear calipers I just gravity bled them, which some will say is the wrong way to do it, but I don't argue with results
When it came time to swap the brake line between the old and new, I removed the bleed nipple from the new caliper to allow maximum flow and then quickly swapped the line over, making sure the brake fluid was topped up I just let the fluid run in/out of the caliper until the fluid ran out without any bubbles, bleed nipple back in and bobs ya auntie..
Awe go on if his blood pressure is going to go up at least let him have pipes on nipples to dream aboutMany years ago when I did mine I clamped both flexi's,when it was all back together I bled the caliper furthest from the master cylinder first by fitting a tube to the nipple,calm down @Mark Piercy ,got the Boss to put her foot on the brake pedal and momentarily turn the ignition on.it was a long tube so you can see when all the air is pushed out. Repeat for the off side.
