dervpower

dervpower

Member
Looking for advice please. I've read through the forums but most of the posts relating are years old or different engines ect. I have a year 2000 range rover 4.6 petrol auto. I've been parked up alot due to covid I was starting it weekly but after so long probably beciase of the cold weather it went flat. The battery was knackered so I bought a new one, after fitting it I went to start the engine and the starter just gave a loud clunk. I tried it afew times before heading to the shed for my rubber hammer. Gave it afew hits whilst the Mrs tried to start and no change. So I checked the gear selector which shows parked on the dash and is luminated P next to the stick. I then checked I have the orange engine check light to show ecu and BECM syn which I have. I then tried a jump pack still just the clunk. So I took the starter motor off and tried another I had laying around..... You guest it just the clunk still!!!!! After throwing tools everywhere I tested the old starter and it whirled fine. So next I checked the voltage at the big live cable on starter motor and the little spade connector, both gave 12+. I then went to the fuse box checked the big fuse and the 40a little fuse, I also swapped the relay and again no change. I've read about running a wire from the spade connector on the starter to the pos on battery it just clunk's. I'm sorry for the essay but I wanted to let you guys know wajt I've atleast tried so far. Does anyone have an idea where to go next?
 
Have you put a big socket on the crankshaft nut and tried to turn the engine, just to ensure it is free? No idea why it wouldn't be but .....

When mine started the clunk thing, I took the starter off and it also performed faultlessly on the bench with no load. It wouldn't turn the engine though. In my case it was the contacts in the solenoid that were shot so although the solenoid would energize, and throw in (clunk) it didn't properly energize the starter due to the internal contacts being burned and not allowing sufficient power to pass.
 
You have a multimeter? Measure the voltage between the battery minus pole (directly on the pole, not on the connector) and the metal ground on the starter when Mrs. turn the starting key, if you measure anything but 0.2 - 0.5 V you have a bad connection in a connector or cable on the negative side. Bad earthing of the engine is often the culprit.
Then do the same on the plus side of the battery and to the bolt where the plus cable enter the starter motor solenoid. you should have almost no reading here either when turning the starter key. If not the bad connection is on the plus side of the cabling/fuses.Take care not to short anything while measuring on the plus side.
Good luck
 
Thanks for all the feed feed back. I'm going to leave it till the weather improves and have another go. It's got to be a poor connection or cable somewhere...
 
When you are dealing with high amperage current flow it does not take much resistance to produce serious voltage drop, E=I^2R, so poor connections easily cause problems.
 
Thanks everyone, I'm going to get a multi meter on all the connectors this weekend. Can I check the starter motor functions correctly whilst still on the car by apply a 12v feed to the big power feed and the spade connector and grounding on the size case?
 
If you look at the solenoid you will see it has three connections. One is power from the battery, one for the activation wire (spade terminal) and the other goes from the solenoid to the brushes on the starter (a big wire). What you can do (carefully) is get a large cable (say a jumper lead) and get into a position where you can easily get to the large wires. (wheel off and inner guard out is best and takes 10 minutes). Get someone to turn the key (so you get your clunk) and at the same time bridge the two big wires. If the starter kicks in and turns the engine, then the solenoid contacts are toast. If it doesn't then the brushes are toast. If it is the solenoid, then the cheapest way to fix it is to get another starter. A solenoid is dearer than a starter, go figure. If it is the brushes, then you can get a brush kit for it. I have done brushes before, pretty easy job, and whilst you are in there you can clean out all the crud, sand up the commutator, lubricate the bushes etc.
 
Marshall8hp said:
If you look at the solenoid you will see it has three connections. One is power from the battery, one for the activation wire (spade terminal) and the other goes from the solenoid to the brushes on the starter (a big wire). What you can do (carefully) is get a large cable (say a jumper lead) and get into a position where you can easily get to the large wires. (wheel off and inner guard out is best and takes 10 minutes). Get someone to turn the key (so you get your clunk) and at the same time bridge the two big wires. If the starter kicks in and turns the engine, then the solenoid contacts are toast. If it doesn't then the brushes are toast. If it is the solenoid, then the cheapest way to fix it is to get another starter. A solenoid is dearer than a starter, go figure. If it is the brushes, then you can get a brush kit for it. I have done brushes before, pretty easy job, and whilst you are in there you can clean out all the crud, sand up the commutator, lubricate the bushes etc.
Click to expand...


Thanks that's really helpful. I've clearly been trying the wrong thing as I though it was the battery power and spade connector haha. I will try that later, I have however just been out and tested the earth's which are all reading fine. The power cables are showing continuity all the way back to the battery also. I checked the spade connector again for voltage and I'm barely getting anything even thought I previously tested and had 13v. Now this may just be me been a prat do I need to have ignition on ect or should that small cable be constant live?
 
dervpower said:
Thanks that's really helpful. I've clearly been trying the wrong thing as I though it was the battery power and spade connector haha. I will try that later, I have however just been out and tested the earth's which are all reading fine. The power cables are showing continuity all the way back to the battery also. I checked the spade connector again for voltage and I'm barely getting anything even thought I previously tested and had 13v. Now this may just be me been a prat do I need to have ignition on ect or should that small cable be constant live?
Click to expand...
The small cable should only be live when the ignition key is held in the start position. If you power that spade connection up with a wire from the positive supply then the starter should engage if its not fecked.
 
tomcat59alan said:
The small cable should only be live when the ignition key is held in the start position. If you power that spade connection up with a wire from the positive supply then the starter should engage if its not fecked.
Click to expand...


Thanks I've tried that and nothing but a clunk. I can only imagine it's a Duff starter. I better get looking online for a replacement.
 
dervpower said:
Thanks I've tried that and nothing but a clunk. I can only imagine it's a Duff starter. I better get looking online for a replacement.
Click to expand...
I take it the engine will turn by hand!! I had a car recovered to the garage off the M53 by the RAC years ago,the recovery guy said it was the starter becsuse it clunked. Turned out the cam belt had let go and many valves and pistons later the starter was fine.:(:D not saying this is your problem, different engine but worth seeing if yours turns.:)
 
Mine was seized by a bolt from the timing thing in the bellhousing jamming the flywheel against the casing. Same clunk and engine could not be turned
 
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