well here goes. i have just bought a 97 dse as a non runner. same issue no diesel at injectors. ill tell you what i found ...spoiler alert...lots of work..time and...well reasonable cost.
first things first..eliminate the in tank pump. there is a union in the plastic fuel pipes before the filter. it is a push fit so you push it together then hold the collar and pull pipe out. when ignition is switched to second position( ie..running position) the pump should run and fuel come out the pipe. (you might want to put a bottle under it) if this does not happen then its pump or relays.(new in tank lift pump cost around £60.00 you will need to buy two nuts and two olives to fit it to existing hoses)
second...is the filter plugged? disconnect fuel line from filter to High pressure pump. fuel should come out of hose. A lot of fuel...almost as much as it was coming out of the hose before the filter. if not..filter is plugged. R&R filter.(full filter / service kit for p38 diesel including...air filter,fuel filter, oil filter, pollen filters £22.00)
third is fuel getting out of the high pressure pump? There are several faults that can be caused here. some are more expensive than others.
First and cheapest is to see if the stop solenoid is functioning. have someone help you for this. with your assistant at the key, take a screw driver and place it against the body of the pump. DO NOT DO THIS NEAR ANY WIRES AND WATCH YOUR SLEEVES NEAR THE ALTINATOR BELT!!!!!" put your ear to the handle of the screw driver, have your assistant turn key to run position,
NOT START!! DONT NEED YOUR ARMS IN A SPINNING ENGINE!! and you should hear a loud 'click'. have your assistant turn on and off a few times to verify click on as you dont hear the click off. if no 'click' then you need to take a volt meter and test if current is coming to the stop solenoid. this is located right behind the fuel pipes at back of pump and on top with a single wire covered by a rubber protector. put red against terminal and black against the engine you should see 12 volts or so. yes voltage but no click....R&R stop solenoid (£160.00) no click no voltage...then there is an issue with the ecu and becm..possible broken wire to solenoid as well...you will need to investigate this further. if yes voltage and yes click then move on.
second is that the imobiliser is engaged. this can have many reasons (keep in mind I am talking about a FIP that hasent been played with..ie taken apart) successful EKA entry and setting windows, sunroof, and leaving radio key in ignition while setting........removed my imobiliser issue without syncmate...but that doesnt mean yours will (p38s...enjoy!
) You have a sync mate and it is giving the all clear so this isnt the issue fingers crossed.
third... time to get serious.....there is a bolt in the back of the pump in the center of the fuel pipes.. THIS IS THE HIGH PRESSURE SIDE OF THE PUMP AND FUEL IS INTENDED TO BE AT 300 BAR ON THIS SIDE!!! TAKE PRECAUTIONS!! IT wont be a lot of fuel, not a constant flow like the filter end of things, but it will spurt out! It is 12 mm and has a copper washer that needs to be replaced if removed. (standard disclaimer...but i have removed them several times and reused without issue if kept clean and undamaged).. When the key is turned on and in tank pump is running, fuel should come out of this hole. Not a lot, but some. You may need to crank engine by hand a rotation or two to see this, maybe not. This will indicate that the fuel is getting through the pump to the high pressure side. If no fuel comes out this bolt, check if fuel is coming out the return. this is the pipe on top of the pump that has the small black braided hose on one side and a large rubber one that follows to the rear of the engine and back to the tank. if fuel is moving in the pump, then fuel will come out of this pipe and a fair amount of it. if there is no fuel moving out of the pump at all, then there is a problem with the pump. If fuel is seen in both places, then there is a problem with the drive sprocket.
Fourth....and this is the more expensive problem......if stop solenoid, imobiliser, and fuel are as they should be.....and you still cant get fuel out of the pump (this was my problem) then it is time to bite the bullet and inspect the FIP shaft and woodruf key. this key can strip damaging both the pump and drive sprocket.
you will need special tools and knowledge to do this!!! the pump will need to be removed and the key way inspected any problems should be self evident. If this key way is stripped, the fuel will get into the high pressure side of the pump but there will be insufficiant pressure to push the fuel past its non return valves to the injectors as the drive sprocket will slip instead of turn the pump. (damaged drive sprocket £63.00, new key £4.00, new old pump £150.00 with warranty ,if your as lucky as me, rebuilt pump £600.00 new pump anywhere from £1500.00-£2,200.00 depending on source. tool to remove pump without completely buggering your timing chains £30.00. pins to locate flywheel at tdc £20.00 or £160.00 for timing set for M51 engine excluding FIP timing tool. ($20.00 option includes flywheel pin and cam lock however the cam lock needed to be modified to fit tightly enough for correct timing setting) FIP timing tool £39.00 -£160.00 (£39.00 option is buying a VAG dial indicator for bosch injection then throwing away the rest of the kit and buy a USPRO Bosch VE timing tool which will and does fit the land rover as well as many others for £9.00 and is very high _uality. (sorry the intended letter between h and u there is not working on my laptop
) knowledge to do all this....PRICELESS!!!!
I hope this process gets you fuel in the right places ..it has for me......now im off to replace the valve seals!