jimmacD

jimmacD

Well-Known Member
Hiya Peeps!
I have managed to talk a local into popping around on Sunday with his Nanocom tool. He, unfortunately knows as little as I do about what can and can't be done with Nanocom. I have watched a few black box solution vids on Youtube so have a rough idea for some of the electronics I want to test. I would like to lower the 2.5 diesel idle, it is currently within spec at 845rpm but would like to get it down to 750rpm, can this be done and how? I have checked for vacuum leaks etc...
 
Never tried it because I don't have a diesel, but in EDC settings there's an option to edit & write the setting.

BUT wait for the experts before changing anything.

1714821907093.png
 
pwood999 said:
Never tried it because I don't have a diesel, but in EDC settings there's an option to edit & write the setting.

BUT wait for the experts before changing anything.

View attachment 316352S ARE N
Click to expand...
The calibration settings are not always 128, there are several variations on my project car. I have never tried altering the settings as I can find no information on what each field does and I have nt got the time to play trial and error.
The only figure I have altered is for idle speed, the M51 in my cars has a vibration period around 750 rpm so I have increased the idle revs a little.
 
Datatek said:
The calibration settings are not always 128, there are several variations on my project car. I have never tried altering the settings as I can find no information on what each field does and I have nt got the time to play trial and error.
The only figure I have altered is for idle speed, the M51 in my cars has a vibration period around 750 rpm so I have increased the idle revs a little.
Click to expand...
Yep, noticed on the Black Box vid that the calibration numbers don't seem to relate to rpms? As in pwood999 post 128?
 
Can you test the glow plugs with Nanocom? My P38 takes about 15 secs of cranking when cold to start, I do double cycle the glow plugs, starts instantly when warm/hot?
 
jimmacD said:
Can you test the glow plugs with Nanocom? My P38 takes about 15 secs of cranking when cold to start, I do double cycle the glow plugs, starts instantly when warm/hot?
Click to expand...
You test the glow plugs with a DVM not Nanocom although it will flag a glowplug relay fault I think.
 
Datatek said:
You test the glow plugs with a DVM not Nanocom although it will flag a glowplug relay fault I think.
Click to expand...
Here I go off topic... again! I want to flush my brake fluid, do I need to go through the pain of bleeding the abs pump and the little dance routine needed or just bleed the brakes like any other vehicle. I am not removing any lines or caliper just need to change the old fluid.
 
jimmacD said:
Here I go off topic... again! I want to flush my brake fluid, do I need to go through the pain of bleeding the abs pump and the little dance routine needed or just bleed the brakes like any other vehicle. I am not removing any lines or caliper just need to change the old fluid.
Click to expand...
You need to do the full RAVE procedure.
 
jimmacD said:
Voltage meter?
Click to expand...
Digital Volt Meter. Set to ohms ignition off, connect across the glow plug terminal and the block, an infinity reading indicates an open circuit glow plug. If replacing them, do not buy cheapos. they do not work. BERU, NGK Delphi or a similar good brand.
 
jimmacD said:
Here I go off topic... again! I want to flush my brake fluid, do I need to go through the pain of bleeding the abs pump and the little dance routine needed or just bleed the brakes like any other vehicle. I am not removing any lines or caliper just need to change the old fluid.
Click to expand...
It's not that bad really, you do need a helper to keep the fluid topped up and to work the pedal. The bleed nipple on the master nearest the bulkhead is semi buried in the insulation and a bit awkward to get at but popping the header tank out of its mounting allows it to move over a tad which helps access.
 
Flossie said:
It's not that bad really, you do need a helper to keep the fluid topped up and to work the pedal. The bleed nipple on the master nearest the bulkhead is semi buried in the insulation and a bit awkward to get at but popping the header tank out of its mounting allows it to move over a tad which helps access.
Click to expand...
Yep, all the vids I have watched are on LHD vehicles.... that looks easy enough.... ah, not so easy for RHD, doh!
 
Datatek said:
Digital Volt Meter. Set to ohms ignition off, connect across the glow plug terminal and the block, an infinity reading indicates an open circuit glow plug. If replacing them, do not buy cheapos. they do not work. BERU, NGK Delphi or a similar good brand.
Click to expand...
Seems a universal agreement, don't buy cheap glow plugs! Thanks for the email and attachments. I might just be too fussy about the hesitation on starting and more grateful that it starts? I am getting used to the relaxed forward motion and to be fair the old gal does pick up her skirt when the pedal hits the carpet. With the lock sorted and the alarm arming the BECM is going to sleep, three days now and no battery drain, Yippee!
 
jimmacD said:
Yep, noticed on the Black Box vid that the calibration numbers don't seem to relate to rpms? As in pwood999 post 128?
Click to expand...
I did mine recently as it was at 850rpm.
Did it with the Nanocom and the engine running.
Mine was logged at 132.(after the pump head seals were done)

Modulation at 51% and at engine working temp,
I reduced it by 1 number at a time I.E 131,130 and saved it each attempt down to 130 with an idle of 750rpm.
I actually preferred it at 850 tbh and it was strange to hear the engine reduce its idle speed👍
 
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