frankenbus

Member
Hi, P38 just failed its mot on rusted sills cos its within 30cm of the body mounts. Can anyone suggest if full inner sill panels are available or is it gonna be a cut and patch job? Also are preformed brake pipes available and last but not least, the tester failed it on the 'abs light sequence incorrect'. I always thought that the sequence was that the light illuminated on start up then extinguished when 7mph was reached. It does this so wtf is the tester talking about. He just keeps saying that the ministry manual overrides what it says in the handbook. Any thoughts greatly appreciated,

Andy
 
Bull****, testers manual says refer to vehicle manufacturers specs for correct operation. As system vary. He is talking garbage.


1.
If the vehicle is fitted with an ABS and/or ESC system, check that the relevant warning lamp(s):
a.
is fitted

b.
illuminates

c.
does not indicate a fault

d.
in the case of ABS only, follows the correct sequence of operation.

Note: The sequence varies with the type of system. Refer to VSI, manufacturers or other reliable data, e.g. purpose produced charts, books, etc.

2.
Check the presence and condition of all visible ABS and ESC system components.

3.
Check the condition of all visible ABS and ESC system wiring.

4.
Check all ABS and ESC system components for any inappropriate repair or modification.

5.
Check the condition and operation of the switch (if fitted) to turn the ESC system on and off.
 
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Hi, P38 just failed its mot on rusted sills cos its within 30cm of the body mounts. Can anyone suggest if full inner sill panels are available or is it gonna be a cut and patch job? Also are preformed brake pipes available and last but not least, the tester failed it on the 'abs light sequence incorrect'. I always thought that the sequence was that the light illuminated on start up then extinguished when 7mph was reached. It does this so wtf is the tester talking about. He just keeps saying that the ministry manual overrides what it says in the handbook. Any thoughts greatly appreciated,

Andy

Your tester is wrong about the ABS light I'm sure the ministry must be aware of the P38s idiosyncrasy - I'm surprised here isn't a note on the system for the car. Good luck finding sills, P38s are extremely rust resistant - sadly this makes replacement body parts pretty rare I believe Rimmer Bros are out of stock of most P38 repair panels - probably due to holding low stocks because they were not commonly purchased other than accident damage!
 
Tester sounds like a muppet that isn't familiar with land rovers and can't be arsed to check!!!!! It's why I always use a reputable place and pay a bit more for the privilege cos they make the effort and don't fail on stupid things!
 
Ref Brake Pipes - I'm pretty sure that you have to remove the originals and make a new ones to fit using the old ones as a pattern. Preformed not available. Or if they are, we couldn't find any!

I managed to avoid it last year but needed to have them replaced this year - corroded like yours.

Bit of a b@stard of a job according to my garage monkey mate!!!
 
Your tester is wrong about the ABS light I'm sure the ministry must be aware of the P38s idiosyncrasy - I'm surprised here isn't a note on the system for the car. Good luck finding sills, P38s are extremely rust resistant - sadly this makes replacement body parts pretty rare I believe Rimmer Bros are out of stock of most P38 repair panels - probably due to holding low stocks because they were not commonly purchased other than accident damage!

Ministry don't say anything about lamp sequence. Other than to check it's function. Extract from MOT test manual was included in my first post.
 
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In March the tester who did the wife's Rangie wanted to fail it on the ABS lights saying they didn't go out at 7 MPH. The speedo starts at 10 MPH so how could he tell? When I pointed this out he relented and passed it.
Regarding the brake pipes, they are fairly straightforward to do but it is one hell of a dirty job. You can cut the pipes just after the plastic coating stops close to air resovoir and just splice in new pipe from there back. Just make sure you buy the correct flex pipes as they differ across the model.
 
The ABS sequence is available on their system. I went through this a couple of months ago. Test centre initially wanted to fail it because the ABS light did not extinguish immediately.
This was a local authority test centre so fair do's that they aren't familiar will all cars.
He went back into the system and the correct functioning was available to him. Still had to push him a bit because the extinguishing at 7 mph (Is it 7?) was in the second paragraph of the description.

G~
 
The ABS sequence is available on their system. I went through this a couple of months ago. Test centre initially wanted to fail it because the ABS light did not extinguish immediately.
This was a local authority test centre so fair do's that they aren't familiar will all cars.
He went back into the system and the correct functioning was available to him. Still had to push him a bit because the extinguishing at 7 mph (Is it 7?) was in the second paragraph of the description.

G~

7 Km/h 5mph. But we'll let you off. It it takes a little longer than that (higher speed). Odds on the air gap to the reluctor ring on one or more wheels is too large.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, sorry to take so long getting back, been working solid. re the abs light enigma, you're all dead right 'bout my initial 7mph mistake. My only worry is that the handbook says that the abs light should illuminate for about a second when the ignition is turned to position 2 before briefly extinguishing and then coming on again to extinguish when 5mph/7kph is reached. (Deep Breath). I've had the truck for over 2 years now and since I've had it the light goes out at 5mph but has never done the initial switching on/off/on thing. I'm pretty sure the abs works cos I've had to brake hard on ice and its hard to miss when it activates. Do I have (an abs) problem? I spent an evening welding the inner sills up....strange how they are holed at the front when the inside of the outer panel could clearly be seen through the holes and looked totally mint. The brake pipes are ok on inspection . There was some flaky paint and minor surface rust on the section about midway back on the section where both take an (approximate 45 degree) kink inboard for a couple of inches over a chassis section. Got a second opinion and have cleaned and greased offending section.. This doesn't surprise me when one of the large list of failures was a scored/damaged windscreen that has turned out to be the guts of a particularly stubborn insect distributed by the wiper blade. This was rectified by spitting on mk1 finger and rubbing vigorously. All in all, a bit of a shame cos I took the car to that location because the guy who tested it last year was hard but fair in fact when he jumped in to take it onto the ramps, the first thing he said was 'Abs lights on' I replied that it would switch of at 7(5)mph to which he replied 'Oh yeah, so it has'. He never mentioned it again. It is well to make sure that although you trust a premises, make sure there is consistency with the tester as in my case they obviously replaced 'mister hard but fair' with an utter twonk.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, sorry to take so long getting back, been working solid. re the abs light enigma, you're all dead right 'bout my initial 7mph mistake. My only worry is that the handbook says that the abs light should illuminate for about a second when the ignition is turned to position 2 before briefly extinguishing and then coming on again to extinguish when 5mph/7kph is reached. (Deep Breath). I've had the truck for over 2 years now and since I've had it the light goes out at 5mph but has never done the initial switching on/off/on thing. I'm pretty sure the abs works cos I've had to brake hard on ice and its hard to miss when it activates. Do I have (an abs) problem? I spent an evening welding the inner sills up....strange how they are holed at the front when the inside of the outer panel could clearly be seen through the holes and looked totally mint. The brake pipes are ok on inspection . There was some flaky paint and minor surface rust on the section about midway back on the section where both take an (approximate 45 degree) kink inboard for a couple of inches over a chassis section. Got a second opinion and have cleaned and greased offending section.. This doesn't surprise me when one of the large list of failures was a scored/damaged windscreen that has turned out to be the guts of a particularly stubborn insect distributed by the wiper blade. This was rectified by spitting on mk1 finger and rubbing vigorously. All in all, a bit of a shame cos I took the car to that location because the guy who tested it last year was hard but fair in fact when he jumped in to take it onto the ramps, the first thing he said was 'Abs lights on' I replied that it would switch of at 7(5)mph to which he replied 'Oh yeah, so it has'. He never mentioned it again. It is well to make sure that although you trust a premises, make sure there is consistency with the tester as in my case they obviously replaced 'mister hard but fair' with an utter twonk.

On with ignition. It comes on, blinks off and back on. Then stays on until signals are received from wheel sensors, then goes off. 5 mph is what is quoted, but as long as it goes off shortly after vehicle starts to move all is fine.
 
On with ignition. It comes on, blinks off and back on. Then stays on until signals are received from wheel sensors, then goes off. 5 mph is what is quoted, but as long as it goes off shortly after vehicle starts to move all is fine.

Does everything except the blinking off then back on, is that ok?
 
It will blink when it's done it's check. You may miss it. It is that quick.

Bloody hell, just been out and checked, that is really quick - little more than a flicker, I've never noticed it before and wouldn't have without help, Thanks V.Much :D
 

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