Yeah but that had a M51 in it.
Yeah but that had a M51 in it.
That is true. Not sure how much torque the M57 kicks out or what the HP24 can handle.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Any gearbox will be better than the one made from hard cheese fitted to the TD6.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
The Hp24 has a listed torque limit of 450nm.
But it has been known in overfinch guise to cope with over 500nm behind the 6.3 small block.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Several people have swapped the HP22 in the P38 diesel for an HP24 from the 4.6 V8, It's a straight swap but may need the oil pump from the HP22, although that is not always the case. A bigger problem is the torque convertor. You might like to consider an uprated one from Ashcrofts.There are plug and play loms available, modified ECU's, with and without immobilisers.
They come with a loom for the engine and also a loom for the body.
There is a facebook page called 'landrover bmw engine conversions' and there are 3 vendors on there (and another in Poland) with looms available for the earlier 97-2001 engines.
They cost around £300.
Apparently the 4HP-24 box from the Thor 4.6 (1999+) - that box, with designation 065, will work with the Diesel P38.
I certainly hope thats correct! Thats what I have been told, and I have no reason to doubt it.
I'm going to compile a list of knowns and unknowns later.
And thanks everyone for the words of encouragment, it is appreciated. That guys 6x6 is a work of art, lovely.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It's just an uprated HP22, the later 065 HP24 is even the same length as the HP22.Spag clutches also lose the will to live in the hp22 after a while
Hp24 is the better box all round
Hopefully I have acquired an HP24 to replace the dodgy HP22 in my P38 diesel later this year.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
Aye whey just added 2 digits to the model number 22-24 and made everything inside and oot better
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Good luck on your adventure, your more prepared than most suspected, I suspect.
Do this and succeed, then the only way is up!
Would love to see a Twin turbo jobbie with suitably manned up slush box, yokes etc.
Sh!te of a stainless steel shovel.
Do this and succeed, then the only way is up!
Would love to see a Twin turbo jobbie with suitably manned up slush box, yokes etc.
Sh!te of a stainless steel shovel.
ned_
Active Member
There is enough information floating around, that I can give it a go, and it will probably work. I'm going to have a gander at the BMW service manual about changing this timing chain.
475hp
https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-ca...ah-the-durango-srt-does-a-four-wheel-burnout/
475hp
https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-ca...ah-the-durango-srt-does-a-four-wheel-burnout/
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myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Go too far and you'll goThere is enough information floating around, that I can give it a go, and it will probably work. I'm going to have a gander at the BMW service manual about changing this timing chain.
475hp
https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-ca...ah-the-durango-srt-does-a-four-wheel-burnout/
kapilamuni
Active Member
You are a brave man.
Do you have the wiring loom for the EAS too? or is it castrated at present?
Good luck with your project.
Do you have the wiring loom for the EAS too? or is it castrated at present?
Good luck with your project.
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
ned_
Active Member
Hiya kapilamuni, EAS is still in place, so far as i know this swap will not affect that at all.
When I get the stanalone loom Ill be able to run the engine on a stand, so the loom will in effect make the engine run regardless of anythinmg else around it.
Some of my posts here will just be to keep notes, for instance I have been advised that:
The left engine mount requires slight modification, the right mount is fine as is but the turbo actuator needs to be modified.
Hoping the exhaust fits up easily also.
When I get the stanalone loom Ill be able to run the engine on a stand, so the loom will in effect make the engine run regardless of anythinmg else around it.
Some of my posts here will just be to keep notes, for instance I have been advised that:
The left engine mount requires slight modification, the right mount is fine as is but the turbo actuator needs to be modified.
Hoping the exhaust fits up easily also.
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ned_
Active Member
So I built an engine stand and in the true tradition of the internet, once I had something to show, I went and asked for advice.
There is an M57 engine forum on facebook, and they gave me the following list of items to address while I have the engine on a stand.
I have these organised into easiest/cheapest first:
remove egr
clean intake and intake ports, maybe wallnut blast it
check swirl flaps
Replace crankcase ventialion with new design
All new vacuum hoses
check the plastic coolant pieces for leaks
Front and rear crankshaft seals
Service timing chain
check crankshaft pulley damper for play or cracks
Replace as many gaskets as possible
___________________________________________________
Not sure about the following:
New rod bearings.
My friend might assist me in removing the head and looking at valves etc.
If I was building the stand again I would do it like this below, in my opinion having all the weight loaded on 1 point is unsafe. I had to re-enforce the above structure several times until I felt that it was safe.
I would bolt into the back of the cranshaft, and at the front of the cranckshaft, I would rest the pulley on the stand. In this way it could be rotated.
The structure below would live a stress free life and could be built a lot lighter, with no critical, potentially dangerous areas.
There is an M57 engine forum on facebook, and they gave me the following list of items to address while I have the engine on a stand.
I have these organised into easiest/cheapest first:
remove egr
clean intake and intake ports, maybe wallnut blast it
check swirl flaps
Replace crankcase ventialion with new design
All new vacuum hoses
check the plastic coolant pieces for leaks
Front and rear crankshaft seals
Service timing chain
check crankshaft pulley damper for play or cracks
Replace as many gaskets as possible
___________________________________________________
Not sure about the following:
New rod bearings.
My friend might assist me in removing the head and looking at valves etc.
If I was building the stand again I would do it like this below, in my opinion having all the weight loaded on 1 point is unsafe. I had to re-enforce the above structure several times until I felt that it was safe.
I would bolt into the back of the cranshaft, and at the front of the cranckshaft, I would rest the pulley on the stand. In this way it could be rotated.
The structure below would live a stress free life and could be built a lot lighter, with no critical, potentially dangerous areas.
Interesting project - best of luck with it all watched.
On engine stands, there's no one size fits all solution to the problems you have noticed .... I've seen aero engines mounted on the sump rim - which is a lot safer, but limits access into the sump - in much the same way as your idea above makes running the engine ....er .... interesting
watched.On engine stands, there's no one size fits all solution to the problems you have noticed
.... I've seen aero engines mounted on the sump rim - which is a lot safer, but limits access into the sump - in much the same way as your idea above makes running the engine ....er .... interesting 
