Hello. Looking for help from fellow P38 owners please. Battery died, removed it from car, fully charged it, put it back, closed bonnet, can't open doors with key or EKA code. Disconnected remote key receiver some time ago which was flattening the battery. Is this why the EKA won't work? Have used EKA previously before that disconnect so code is correct. Have had an expert wedge the door open and pull the button up but doors still don't open. EKA code seems to work, lights flash etc, but doors stay locked. No dealer or independent will help, or locksmith or auto electrician. Any ideas please? I have read every post on every web site I can find and can't find an answer. Two weeks in now and £50 worse off for the expert help which didn't work. Got the bonnet open and can gain entry there if needed. Help! I will reward anyone who can get me in without breaking windows or locks. I'm in Newcastle upon Tyne. Thanks for your time guys.
If it is superlocked...your pretty much stuck with using some brute force....
If it was just locked, pulling up the sill lock button should cycle the lock motors.....if yours didn't then it is more than likely superlocked....
Vehicles not previously superlocked, and then the battery is disconnected and reconnected with the doors closed, it can cycle the superlock motors....this is why you should never leave keys inside a P38 if you are playing with the battery.....
If you did force entry, it is very difficult to get the door card off, and even if you did the locks/latch is a sealed unit, it would be a case of some brute force to get the door open.....
This is why the P38 is sodding secure, sometimes even if you ARE the owner and HAVE THE KEYS....you still can't get into the sod.....can you see why they are seldom nicked!
If it was just locked, pulling up the sill lock button should cycle the lock motors.....if yours didn't then it is more than likely superlocked....
Vehicles not previously superlocked, and then the battery is disconnected and reconnected with the doors closed, it can cycle the superlock motors....this is why you should never leave keys inside a P38 if you are playing with the battery.....
If you did force entry, it is very difficult to get the door card off, and even if you did the locks/latch is a sealed unit, it would be a case of some brute force to get the door open.....
This is why the P38 is sodding secure, sometimes even if you ARE the owner and HAVE THE KEYS....you still can't get into the sod.....can you see why they are seldom nicked!
It shouldn't be super locked if you didn't do it, but the lock mechanisms are full of breakable plastic bits. There are some methods to release the lock from the inside without removing the door card (between the window & inner panel) but they will break the lock.
You best bet is either Rick or Marty, who will both read this thread when they are online.
BTW put your location in your profile rather than just in a post.
You best bet is either Rick or Marty, who will both read this thread when they are online.
BTW put your location in your profile rather than just in a post.
Sounds intriguing as I would have thought that you should still be able to open drivers door with key, (regardless of whether super-locked or not), but I do stand to be corrected by my peers who are far more knowledgeable than I.
I have had my P38 in various states of dis-assembly, with the doors locked/unlocked whilst also disconnecting the battery, on many occasions, and I never had any problem opening the doors via the key or the fob.
If my assumption is correct, (and you are able to rotate the key in the barrel), you may have lost the rod connector between the lock barrel cam and the lock mechanism, (this would be proved by you not getting the desired response when attempting to enter the EKA code as I am presuming that the lock push rod also turns the lock/unlock micro switches in the mechanism - as well as toggling the mechanical lock mechanism)?
Having recently stripped all of my locks, (the drivers door being the most awkward of all - due to the additional lock/unlock push rod in addition to the other linkages that exist on the passenger door lock mechanism - and I still have the scratches on the back of my hands to remind me!), I believe it would be possible to remove the door card and 'manipulate' the lock/unlock lever, (at the door lock/motor assembly itself - obviously located midway up the outer door skin where the door lock resides).
If the rod has come off the door lock barrel cam, (it is very fragile), or if the other end has come off the door lock/motor assembly you could then unlock the door - subject to you not being very unlucky and the actual lock itself has broken - highly unlikely?
Unfortunately you would still need to get in to the passenger compartment though!
I am presuming that your vehicle is super-locked - otherwise you could simply open one of the other doors, (from the outside - or inside if you manage to get in), via the unlock pull knob, (at the top of the door card), via those 'methods' that are only used in dire emergencies or by those unsavoury types on dimly lit streets!
I have had my P38 in various states of dis-assembly, with the doors locked/unlocked whilst also disconnecting the battery, on many occasions, and I never had any problem opening the doors via the key or the fob.
If my assumption is correct, (and you are able to rotate the key in the barrel), you may have lost the rod connector between the lock barrel cam and the lock mechanism, (this would be proved by you not getting the desired response when attempting to enter the EKA code as I am presuming that the lock push rod also turns the lock/unlock micro switches in the mechanism - as well as toggling the mechanical lock mechanism)?
Having recently stripped all of my locks, (the drivers door being the most awkward of all - due to the additional lock/unlock push rod in addition to the other linkages that exist on the passenger door lock mechanism - and I still have the scratches on the back of my hands to remind me!), I believe it would be possible to remove the door card and 'manipulate' the lock/unlock lever, (at the door lock/motor assembly itself - obviously located midway up the outer door skin where the door lock resides).
If the rod has come off the door lock barrel cam, (it is very fragile), or if the other end has come off the door lock/motor assembly you could then unlock the door - subject to you not being very unlucky and the actual lock itself has broken - highly unlikely?
Unfortunately you would still need to get in to the passenger compartment though!
I am presuming that your vehicle is super-locked - otherwise you could simply open one of the other doors, (from the outside - or inside if you manage to get in), via the unlock pull knob, (at the top of the door card), via those 'methods' that are only used in dire emergencies or by those unsavoury types on dimly lit streets!
Superlock is engaged by an electric motor. Therefore whilst the car should always be able to be unlocked mechanically by the key from a normally locked state, whether battery is connected or not. It cannot be unlocked from a superlocked state with the battery disconnected, as there is no power to drive the superlock motor.
That is why you ALWAYS have a door open when you re connect the battery. And NEVER have all doors/windows closed and keys on passenger seat when you connect it either.
Rick-the-Pick
Active Member
That's a tricky one.
It's gone into maximum security mode. Hence, all doors superlocked.
Although the EKA might be registering, it might only be registering on one direction only.
During a maximum security breach the becm will corrupt the data, & if the EKA code data has been corrupted, you ain't getting in no matter what.
There was a procedure for getting power to the boot but I've never used this procedure & not sure of it. There's guy's on RR.net that know how to do it.
It's gone into maximum security mode. Hence, all doors superlocked.
Although the EKA might be registering, it might only be registering on one direction only.
During a maximum security breach the becm will corrupt the data, & if the EKA code data has been corrupted, you ain't getting in no matter what.
There was a procedure for getting power to the boot but I've never used this procedure & not sure of it. There's guy's on RR.net that know how to do it.
Hey! I'm overwhelmed by the helpful replies, so thank you! I'm away next week but on my return I think it's time to buy the window and smash the existing one unfortunately. But first I have one question. As I said, the recovery expert wedged the door open a bit and pulled up the passenger door button, but the door still didn't open. But he didn't try pulling the interior door handle. Can any of you try super locking yourself in the car and seeing if the door pull will open the door please? If the door doesn't open it's time for me to fetch the hammer
Thanks again so much for your time!
Thanks again so much for your time!
Right! Thanks to the great help from this forum and the really useful articles on Rangerovers.net the door is open, the key synced, and the engine started. Took drivers door exterior window trim off, it just lifts up. Used two plastic wedges and tried various tools down inside the door, pulling and pushing anything that moved. Could see key turning lock and moving lever, could see door handle moving its lever, but couldn't open door. Stuck the old Blue Peter sticky backed plastic across the window and broke it using spring loaded centre punch, the old car thief's tool of choice. With window gone it was easier to see down inside door but still couldn't trigger the lock. Getting the door card off was fun, but managed it with only a small split right in the footwell. Removing the door card was of little use because the lock sits inside the door which effectively is double skinned. However we needed it off to replace the window of course (£39 off eBay). Started thinking about smashing into the door lock with hammer and crowbar, gave it some hefty blows but couldn't break it. When for a heavier hammer and my mate Ian shouted he'd opened it! After I finished hugging him several times (in a purely manly way of course!), he showed me the problem. The rod attached to the key lock was depressing its lever, as we had seen earlier, but he pressed it with a metal rod we were using and it moved a tiny bit further, and clicked. Door opened! We oiled everything, fitted new window (which we didn't need to break had we known the issue), put door card back (SO much easier with the door open!) and we are working again as usual. Now have lost confidence in P38 though and can't trust it. Range Rover 2.5 DSE, 1999, 127,000 miles, really nice condition inside and out for its age, dark blue, privacy glass, yours for £2000. Thanks again to everyone who helped directly, and those who posted loads of photos and tips on various sites. I bet you can't find that camaraderie for other marques. I will miss it but am buying a new Leaf. Don't laugh!
