T

Tin Man Work

New Member
I used to have strong and regular steering wheel vibration (to the point where the satnav on the windscreen was bouncing) and after balancing the wheels , etc, and being told it was an offside wheel bearing it turned out to be a seized viscous coupling on the front of the transfer box; the giveaway was that the outside edges of the front tyres were wearing, and then that the front axle was effectively permanently diff locked when checked with the vehicle raised off all wheels. Fixing that absolutely transformed the way the car drove and put a big grin across my face. :)

:eek: One thing left though as I still have a slight hint of a steering wheel wobble that seems to come and go, as well as an inconsistent strong judder when braking which seems to happen randomly and at most speeds and I’m wondering if something has been worn after the original viscous coupling vibration. I am going to change the wheels and tyres with a second-hand set after they have been rebalanced, and then will be looking at the suspension bushes and ball joints for starters.

Has anyone experienced anything like this? I would appreciate any help in finding the problem before I’ve worked through everything from dampers to bearings!

Many thanks for any guidance on this!
 
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hi

i have a similar problem of a steering wobble, i have ordered up a set of track rod ends and a steering damper and will fit this first and try it out BUT i reckon it will be the steering box that is the culprit and that will have to be either new or a recondition part as getting a second hand one could turn out to be no better than the one thats in
 
How did you fix the seized viscous coupling? I experience a slight judder between 15 and 25 MPH only through steering wheel and only have wear on the inside of drivers front tyre. I also get a strange noise when i lift off above about 40 MPH which last a second or 2?

Cheers
 
Thanks for the post on the rod ends - let me know how it goes!

To fix the viscous coupling I hunted down a used transfer box at a breakers and was lucky enough for him to take the coupling and housing off the box for me (You can get reconditioned couplings but these would need fitting into the housing). Got the Rangie up on a garage ramp and swapped over the coupling housings; bloody tight for space but just possible.

My vibe was constant and grew more and more as it went on - your vibe could be a worn u/j on a propshaft if it's speed sensitive, as well as what happens when you lift off (could be worn driveshaft coming off load), so worthwhile seeing if there is any play in your U/Js.

Whilst it's up on the ramps put her in neutral, chock a front wheel and see if you can turn the other front wheel by hand; it'll be stiff to turn either way, but if it's locked solid to the other wheel it would be the viscous coupling on the transfer box (this is what happened to me).

I tried a Landrover garage to get this checked out, but they didn't find anything wrong - it was a local landrover mechanic who saw the wear and got the wagon jacked up and found the fault; I was happy as if left this could have hammered the whole transmission.
 
OK, all fixed and running without a shake or a judder.

What was done:

1. Swapped the 18" for a set of 16" alloys that had been checked for any problems and balanced. No change but these left on whilst the rest of the work was carried out. The 18" wheels were also checked for any problems, the balance weights removed and the wheels rebalanced from scratch for later refitment.

2. Drag link and tie rods inspected - no obvious play there but rods refitted and the steering set up properly; centralised steering box, etc, to minimise any play. No change..

3. Propshafts removed and U/Js checked for play, no problems there, so no result.

4. All Hubs and ball joints checked for wear/leaks/play - all found OK, so no result.

:D At this point I had a mad moment and changed all of the oil; hubs, transmission, transfer box - then did the engine oil and filter whilst I was about it. :D

5. Bushes, shocks, steering damper checked out - nothing obvious there.

6. Checked brakes and discs - nothing obvious but all pads and calipers guides, etc, cleaned, given a spot of copper grease, checked for free travel, and the caliper pistons (carefully) exercised out and in.

Then I decided to change the front discs and pads, and B****r Me! Vibration/Shake gone!. :) :doh: :) :doh: :) :doh:

Spent the next half hour at all speeds braking and running to check if it really had been that simple! Yes a lot of work done but I have a good sense now of the state of my P38 after all of this, but she's completely re-lubed, back on the 18" wheels and running as smooooooooooooth as silk.

Hope this helps someone - maybe the next owner should change the brake discs a bit earlier in the process!
 
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Tin Man Work said:
OK, all fixed and running without a shake or a judder.

What was done:

1. Swapped the 18" for a set of 16" alloys that had been checked for any problems and balanced. No change but these left on whilst the rest of the work was carried out. The 18" wheels were also checked for any problems, the balance weights removed and the wheels rebalanced from scratch for later refitment.

2. Drag link and tie rods inspected - no obvious play there but rods refitted and the steering set up properly; centralised steering box, etc, to minimise any play. No change..

3. Propshafts removed and U/Js checked for play, no problems there, so no result.

4. All Hubs and ball joints checked for wear/leaks/play - all found OK, so no result.

:D At this point I had a mad moment and changed all of the oil; hubs, transmission, transfer box - then did the engine oil and filter whilst I was about it. :D

5. Bushes, shocks, steering damper checked out - nothing obvious there.

6. Checked brakes and discs - nothing obvious but all pads and calipers guides, etc, cleaned, given a spot of copper grease, checked for free travel, and the caliper pistons (carefully) exercised out and in.

Then I decided to change the front discs and pads, and B****r Me! Vibration/Shake gone!. :) :doh: :) :doh: :) :doh:

Spent the next half hour at all speeds braking and running to check if it really had been that simple! Yes a lot of work done but I have a good sense now of the state of my P38 after all of this, but she's completely re-lubed, back on the 18" wheels and running as smooooooooooooth as silk.

Hope this helps someone - maybe the next owner should change the brake discs a bit earlier in the process!
Click to expand...


hi

if the brake disc were causing the vibration you should have only felt the judder whilst braking

the main thing is its all fixed now and working :):crazy_driver:
 
One thing I did forget to mention was that on the nearside caliper the forward sliding pin felt like it was sticking - I cleaned both pins and their seats, regreased and refitted; both then moving freely.

This could have contributed if the caliper wasn't totally free to move and follow the pistons, etc.
 
a new steering box has cured mine,the old one i removed,and i tried to turn the drop arm by hand and it wouldn,t move,the new one turned freely no problem,so something inside must have gone on the old one,which has contributed to the vibration
 
A quick addition to this thread: I had vibration when braking on my P38 too. I had recently replaced all the brake discs and all was initially fine, but a steering wheel tremour when braking started. To cut a long story.. I`ve replaced the front discs again and all seems ok again. This time I`ve £50 Mintex discs on..not £25 after market discs....Might learn not to be so tight this time..
 
Hi

Only just getting my hands dirty with the range and once I get it through the MOT I will flush the intercooler and se how she runs after that.

MOT is causing a problem, though.

I need new mid and tail exhaust, new rear discs and pads, and what my garage thinks are called hockey club bushes but I reckon radius arm bushes x 4. My tack rod needs new bushes too but he reckoned the whole rod need to be replaced to replace the bushes, but going underneath myself it looks like the rod is bolted on both ends so just unbolt, remove and replace the bushes and bob's your uncle. Also checked RAVE and it reckons the same. Garage reckon if i source the parts then will take them 10 hours to fit it all. IS ANY/ALL of this correct?

I know LR garages have special tools for fitting bushes but he reckoned 4-5 hours to fit them. Would a proper LR or indie do a quicker job?

I can post up pictures of the offending bushes but hoped my names are right for the parts.

Many thanks in advance.

Cheers

Adam
 
Hi
The garage will probably do the job as the RAV cd. I did mine and you can short cut the process. The bolts holding the radius arm bushes are fitted so that they cannot come out if the nut comes undone as the bolt will hit the stiffen thing (cant remember the name of it). I cut the bolts with a hacksaw and lowered to the floor. The new bolts were drilled in a vise so that a split pin could be fitted after. The new bolts were then put in back to front and tightened up and the split pin fitted. Car drives like new now so if I get my 46 HSE back on the road it is next to have them done.

Regards Craig
 
when i did mine i drilled loads of holes in the bush and knocked it through with an old socket,to refit the new one a bit of copper grease and a bloody big vice,or take them off and get a garge to remove/refit,but make sure you support the car
 
Hi interesting thread can you tell me if jacking the one front wheel and puting in neutral would give same conditions or do all 4 need to be off the ground to check the coupling?
 
sandyt said:
Hi interesting thread can you tell me if jacking the one front wheel and puting in neutral would give same conditions or do all 4 need to be off the ground to check the coupling?
Click to expand...

Just jack one front wheel, doesn't matter if it's in P, D or N. It should be possible to turn the wheel but it will need a lot of effort. If it is impossible to turn the wheel, the viscous coupling is shot:eek:
 
My 01 p38 shudders right through the steering wheel when I hit around 50mph now I have put new wheels and Pirelli scorpion tyres on all 4 wheels had them balanced etc new poly bushes put on aswell but while was underneath noticed front propshaft had new bolts on they were loose then tightened them up but still the problem is there been advised that prop probably needs balanced to rectify the problem any thoughts anyone (ps new to the forum) cheers guys

George
 
Geogio said:
My 01 p38 shudders right through the steering wheel when I hit around 50mph now I have put new wheels and Pirelli scorpion tyres on all 4 wheels had them balanced etc new poly bushes put on aswell but while was underneath noticed front propshaft had new bolts on they were loose then tightened them up but still the problem is there been advised that prop probably needs balanced to rectify the problem any thoughts anyone (ps new to the forum) cheers guys

George
Click to expand...
Wheel balance, drag link, track rod or tracking. Seen some bad comments about Scorpions also.
 
Geogio said:
My 01 p38 shudders right through the steering wheel when I hit around 50mph now I have put new wheels and Pirelli scorpion tyres on all 4 wheels had them balanced etc new poly bushes put on aswell but while was underneath noticed front propshaft had new bolts on they were loose then tightened them up but still the problem is there been advised that prop probably needs balanced to rectify the problem any thoughts anyone (ps new to the forum) cheers guys

George
Click to expand...

I had that problem-offside disc had a swage line and steering damper shot so fitted terrafirma slotted/drilled discs,steering damper,mintex pads,all good now and I run on scorps.:D
 
out of balance wheels show at 50-56mph,you say "new" wheels & tyres or did you mean new secondhand pre-used wheels/tyres ? if secondhand they can appear good but believe me most have hidden faults which only a keen/trained eye will see,if brand new alloys fitted with brand new zeros (imo the best;)) look at suspension/steering closer again, if they was pre used wheels/tyres have them properly removed/inspected(inc tyres demounted) as there is a high possibility of them being faulty & sold on :( could also be wrong fitment of alloys inc no sprigot rings & wrong bolts/nuts as these all vary with different ages/varients.
 
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