Well done
Did you check the connector contacts between driver pack & solenoids ? It’s underneath the valve block so it has to come out. Often the contacts are loose even if the plastic housing is tight. These can also cause random extended mode because the ECU cannot adjust so it faults.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Most driver packs can be easily repaired if you can solder and have a suitable soldering iron.
P38Joe
Member
Thought I'd update everyone for the benefit of the forum - changed the Drivers pack two weekends ago. TOUCH WOOD - it has been good as gold ever since. Seems to be much more responsive when adjusting between ride heights now - seems to do it in a matter of seconds. Perhaps an element of the placebo effect but the ride also seems less 'crashy'.
Was very easy to replace, whipped the compressor out and was able to get the drivers pack out without needing to move the valve block. Two of the bolts were quite hard to reach but soon got there with a little time and patience. Took about 45 mins all in all.
@Datatek I did look into the soldering option, but didn't trust my own ability in attempting it!
Will see how it goes, new A/C condenser is the next job on the list before the warmer weather gets here.
Happy Motoring.
Joe
Was very easy to replace, whipped the compressor out and was able to get the drivers pack out without needing to move the valve block. Two of the bolts were quite hard to reach but soon got there with a little time and patience. Took about 45 mins all in all.
@Datatek I did look into the soldering option, but didn't trust my own ability in attempting it!
Will see how it goes, new A/C condenser is the next job on the list before the warmer weather gets here.
Happy Motoring.
Joe
Nice one, thanks for updating and good luck with your aircon
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Don't throw the old driver pack away, they may be becoming scarce.
P38Joe
Member
I thought exactly the same, stored safely away in case I’ve got no choice but to attempt a solder in the future!
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
I have a couple of suspect driver packs kicking about, what needs to be soldered Keith?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I'll try and post photo's when I fire up my office computer.
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
Many thanks
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.
The first photo is of the circuit board with all the potting removed. At the left end near where the wires come out you can see a 100uf electrolytic. This is the component that most often causes random EAS faults.
The replacement needs to be 100uf, 63volt 105C, ideally an axial lead device. Pick out the potting carefully to expose the component, cut the wires as close to the component as possible, drop the new one in and solder to the wires of the old part making sure you have the polarity correct. You can see from the second photo I did not have available an axial lead electrolytic, just not quite so easy to fit but works just the same. I have repaired 3 so far and they have worked fine.
A higher voltage rating is OK. It doesn't matter if the diameter of the new part is greater than the old part as there is sufficient room between the driver pack and the valve block. Reseal with electrical grade silicone.
Hope that helps
cornishboater
Well-Known Member
An absolute star, many thanks keith
