First thing I will do tomorrow is compression test, so on the manifold usually if you put hand as trying to block air, you will feel like there is air being sucked. But that is not the case. You can't feel anything. Car still crank tho and you can see fuel on the injection pipes
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It's possible that trying to tow start the car has cause the timing chain to jump. Not heard of it on the M51 engine but it's a common problem on the Version of Transit I have. Not possible to tow start most P38's as they are automatics.
yah, this one is manual, thanks a lot for the input. I have checked the coolant and oil and did not see any mixed liquid in any of them. I belive next thing is to compression check and to see if the timing chain jumped
Easystart is the devils work. If it started and was revving too high then the pump top isn't in the right place. I cannot recall which way uou tap it to lower the revs. Mind you, if the pin isn't in the collar it won't make any difference. Usually you line the pin and hole up, drop the lid, move it, lift the lid and check the collar has moved, move it back to the marks you made before disassembly, tilt the lid to make sure the collar has moved back andnthen lower, check the marks and tighten up.
I think you'd be unlucky.
The fact it started but revved way too high make me suspect the top of the pump wasn't put back right.
So today could not get time to do compression test and inspect the timing. This evening just open the top level and crank it to TDC. Hope it's a right position. Second thing I put valve timing tool. One thing for sure the oil was dirty. Tomorrow will continue with compression and timing check.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Nowt wrong with Easy Start as a one off test as long as you don't overdo the quantity.
thanks again, came to know about it here after googling, won't allow easystart again. is it normal when you crank manually to hear small compression noises, if the top cover is opened?
The plastic cover that sits on the inlet manifold? That should make no difference. If the inlet manifold itself is off then ypu can probably hear some noises from the valves.
hello again, I manage to take the timing cover off, here is the photo I took I took as soon as front timing cover was off
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As you can see at TDC, the chain links are almost 12 but the chain bright links are not in the right position,
secondly after removing crank and pump sprockets, I found the pump sprocket is cracked near woodruff key space. And the place to position woodruft key is destroyed. which will make the pump not to be on the right position. here are the photos
Now can this be a reason for all these issues? Also, can it be fixed at least for testing if the car will start again, tried to find a used one with no luck. The timing chain kit is almost 250 pounds would like to buy it once am sure the car can start.
Also since the timing cover is off, is there anything else I should check/replace like valves/seals. and where are they located?
thank you all.
As you can see at TDC, the chain links are almost 12 but the chain bright links are not in the right position,
secondly after removing crank and pump sprockets, I found the pump sprocket is cracked near woodruff key space. And the place to position woodruft key is destroyed. which will make the pump not to be on the right position. here are the photos
Now can this be a reason for all these issues? Also, can it be fixed at least for testing if the car will start again, tried to find a used one with no luck. The timing chain kit is almost 250 pounds would like to buy it once am sure the car can start.
Also since the timing cover is off, is there anything else I should check/replace like valves/seals. and where are they located?
thank you all.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Those sprockets are knackered
New chains and sprockets, get the timing right and I'd say it's a good bet it will start and run.thank you @Datatek, will do, anything else you think should be replaced for more engine efficiency?Those sprockets are knackered
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Chain tensioner.
That looks like someone has had a go at placing it on the shaft and got it in the wrong place
is the fuel pump shaft damaged as well
If you can get them, both chains, all guides, all the sprockets and tensioner. New oil and filter.
The moment you see that something has been fumbled instantly assume they've buggered something else in there
is the fuel pump shaft damaged as wellIf you can get them, both chains, all guides, all the sprockets and tensioner. New oil and filter.
The moment you see that something has been fumbled instantly assume they've buggered something else in there
pump looks okay, only woodruff key needed to be replaced, but you are right, I think so too... something else may be wrong somewhere, especially for the loud compression noise I was hearing while cranking.That looks like someone has had a go at placing it on the shaft and got it in the wrong place
If you can get them, both chains, all guides, all the sprockets and tensioner. New oil and filter.
The moment you see that something has been fumbled instantly assume they've buggered something else in there
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Those sprockets were so bad that it's possible the chain has jumped teeth and you have ended up with a bent valve. The noise on cranking could also be because with the timing out, a valve is partially open when under compression. I would do the chains and sprockets first and then with the timing right see if you still get the n noise, with luck it will be OK.
thank you Datatek, will set the timing and see after getting the new chains and sprockets. One more thing, Do you happen to know the part number for the sump gasket, All I can see online are for the V8 sump
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I do not. Try Island 4 x 4 or look for a BMW M51 sump gasket. The sump is I believe a bit of a bugger to remove, the car will need to be on wade height for the sump to clear the diff. I need to replace the sump on one of mine as it has a porous spot but I keep putting the job off. I have patched it for the time being which seems to be holding.
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You can fit the sump without a gasket, just make sure it's completely clean with no scratches and it'll seal with a good sealer. Mine was done this way about 5yr ago after it was punched by the front diff no leaks as of yet.
no leaks as of yet.
