Some models have separate aerials for AM an FM. If both rear quarter windows have wires then so do you. How these make their way to the head unit I have no idea but might explain 2 sockets?
Some models have separate aerials for AM an FM. If both rear quarter windows have wires then so do you. How these make their way to the head unit I have no idea but might explain 2 sockets?
awkwardbob
Well-Known Member
Great thanks.Ok, further exploration reveals the audio system to be relatively unmolested -except for damaged tweeters held in with gaffer tape !
im
Assuming these are the in-door amp/crossovers ? -currently being fed with speaker rather than line level signal from what I can assertain.
It looks like it may just be the awful bodge at the head unit end which I ought to be able to splice back together -assuming I can get hold of the iso sockets !
One other quickie, do any of you know if the head unit picks up its 12V vis the iso connectors ?
Thanks again !
Bob
martyuk
Well-Known Member
The 2 connectors are antenna connectors.
One is AM/FM and the other is FM only - the P38 had "diversity" FM on it so the head unit would use whichever signal was strongest., hence 2 aerial connections.
Yes, door amps are the the boxes you've got a picture of, and wiring does look good.
Head unit does pick up both permanent 12V live and switched 12V via the ISO connectors, yes.
The top ISO connector (which is pink in the earlier P38's) has 2 extra pins, which are for the subwoofer feed. It could be the reason it's been chopped as they are normally 8 pin. You should be able to get a 10 pin one though to wire it back on properly and then it would be a plug and play solution.
One is AM/FM and the other is FM only - the P38 had "diversity" FM on it so the head unit would use whichever signal was strongest., hence 2 aerial connections.
Yes, door amps are the the boxes you've got a picture of, and wiring does look good.
Head unit does pick up both permanent 12V live and switched 12V via the ISO connectors, yes.
The top ISO connector (which is pink in the earlier P38's) has 2 extra pins, which are for the subwoofer feed. It could be the reason it's been chopped as they are normally 8 pin. You should be able to get a 10 pin one though to wire it back on properly and then it would be a plug and play solution.
Not wishing to gloat, but I must be lucky because both of my P38's have had faultless "Kure-my-Hardon" units.
Shame there is no aux-in, but the FM-transmitter doo-dad lets me stuff my Spotify music choices in as a radio channel via blutooth and plays the phone audio thru there too when on calls.
Luv's it I does.
Shame there is no aux-in, but the FM-transmitter doo-dad lets me stuff my Spotify music choices in as a radio channel via blutooth and plays the phone audio thru there too when on calls.
Luv's it I does.
awkwardbob
Well-Known Member
Hi again, So it seems that I may have spoken too soon, the wiring in the door has been chopped but not irreparably (see pics) the chopped wires seem to be fir the mid and high speakers (front door) and mid speaker (rear door), What is odd, though, is that I fanc see any o/p to the ‘full range’ lower door speaker in either front or rear.
Am I missing something obvious ?
can anyone point me in the direction of a schematic for this ‘amp in each door’ setup as the Rave I have doesn’t seem to have it.
Thanjd again
Bob
-oh, and that nice pink 10-way ? Well, the butcher has not only chopped the wires and spiced them into speaker cable but they also chopped the end off of the 10-way (the sun part) to make it an 8-way... <shakes head>
awkwardbob
Well-Known Member
Marty has done an awful lot to keep these beasts on the road.
