Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
I don't think I would want anything spoiling that mating surface from being as tight as possible. Think of the pressure when that gas mixture ignites and how long a bit of sealant might last against those hot gases burning.
The valley gasket or outside the ring of pressure from the head bolts themselves, maybe.
Dragonwalker
Well-Known Member
You do need the RTV sealant to stop oil wicking along the joints in the block faces
I've always had best results using Permatex on the valley gasket. Around the corner coolant passages both sides (as shown in post 119), but also a thin bead along the actual block where the rubber seals go.
Also make sure you don't overtighten the bolts holding the manifold gasket clamps down, torque setting is only 18NM. Overtightening can apparently deform the rubber seals and allow a leak....that's why I Permatex them!
PaulP38a did a helpful write up....
Also make sure you don't overtighten the bolts holding the manifold gasket clamps down, torque setting is only 18NM. Overtightening can apparently deform the rubber seals and allow a leak....that's why I Permatex them!
PaulP38a did a helpful write up....
Last edited:
blue_cheese
Member
Folks, how perfect does the block surface need to be? I've gone over it a few times with a plastic scraper and some degreaser, but there are some baked-on bits (mostly around the thread holes) that aren't shifting with my own power.
Please see this pic:
Please see this pic:
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
You could try a bit of diesel or ATF with some fine wet and dry and very lightly with fingertips try rubbing it gently and see if that gets the stain off. Check regularly to make sure the metal is not scratched or worn by it.
blue_cheese
Member
Update: got some petrol and gave it a good scrubbing, but still looking a bit stained. Might have to pick up some scotchbrite pads.
Image:
Image:
Don't worry about the staining, as long as it's not raised or dented but flat and checked with a straight edge to be found good you can rebuild it. 
If you start scrubbing and remove any metal at all you'll run the risk of a burn through or fluid migration later on down the line
If you start scrubbing and remove any metal at all you'll run the risk of a burn through or fluid migration later on down the line
Last edited:
Francesco M.
Active Member
don't worry about the stains, just check that it is flat. This is the base of my 2.5 dt when I closed it, it has stains but it was perfectly flat and does not leak
blue_cheese
Member
Heads are on, just need to tighten them down now.
Does anyone know the torque spec for ARP studs? I'm seeing a few different answers online
Does anyone know the torque spec for ARP studs? I'm seeing a few different answers online
I don't. But I'd go with what the manufacturer recommends.... Is this the right instruction sheet for your kit? I think it is.
You can convert freedom units to proper money here...
www.unitconverters.net
The RAVE torque settings are different, but I'd go with what ARP say.
You can convert freedom units to proper money here...
Convert ft lb to Nm
Instant free online tool for foot-pound to newton meter conversion or vice versa. The foot-pound [ft*lbf] to newton meter [N*m] conversion table and conversion steps are also listed. Also, explore tools to convert foot-pound or newton meter to other energy units or learn more about energy...
www.unitconverters.net
The RAVE torque settings are different, but I'd go with what ARP say.
Last edited:
blue_cheese
Member
Right folks, I may have buggered this up.
I was installing the driver side head, but couldn't get it to sit right on the two small dowels in the block. I moved it the head around to try and get it to slip on, but it didn't.
I took the head off and I've managed to leave a few small scrapes/gouges around the dowel holes in the head. Rest of the head, around the cylinders and water jackets are undamaged.
I tried again, and it went on smoother the second time and is now sitting in place properly
How much of a cock up is this? I have a feeling I'll be sending the heads off to be skimmed....
I was installing the driver side head, but couldn't get it to sit right on the two small dowels in the block. I moved it the head around to try and get it to slip on, but it didn't.
I took the head off and I've managed to leave a few small scrapes/gouges around the dowel holes in the head. Rest of the head, around the cylinders and water jackets are undamaged.
I tried again, and it went on smoother the second time and is now sitting in place properly
How much of a cock up is this? I have a feeling I'll be sending the heads off to be skimmed....
Ooh, I'd be pulling the head to check and gauge it from there, I don't suppose you have a picture of the marks do you 
blue_cheese
Member
Yes they can definitely be felt with my nail. It's a bunch of small scratches around the dowel hole.
I would get some pictures, but the head is finally in place. I suppose I'll have to take it off anyway
I would get some pictures, but the head is finally in place. I suppose I'll have to take it off anyway
This is a bit above my pay grade I'm afriad! I'm not sure what's acceptable or not. I have run a flat sharpening stone over a head before now to polish things up a bit.... that engine still runs fine but that was an old cast iron Volvo Penta marine diesel engine, not a Rover V8.
I'd call your machine shop in the morning and ask them what they think.
I'd call your machine shop in the morning and ask them what they think.
