Saint.V8

Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie
Full Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7g2NJc1BmhE

As promised in a previous thread, Here is a video of how easy it is to get the EASUnlock software working on a cheap USB-Serial connector and the lead as supplied by Datatek....

Running Win7 on an 8 year old Dell Inspirion laptop and using this USB/Serial adaptor....

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000BF106C

Just to show that it is indeed possible to use Win7, a cheap USB lead and the brilliant value for money lead from Datatek and software from the legend that is Storey Wilson.

I have done no other settings other than, load the drivers from the disc supplied with the USB lead, plugged the lead in and connected the EAS lead.

I have noted that whilst it should be possible to connect using any of the comm ports listed in EASUnlock, it does prefer numbers 1-4 so if you can set the USB adaptor to be Com Port 1-4 by using the properties in Device Manager to set it to the required port number....

Simples....
 
Saint.V8 said:
I have noted that whilst it should be possible to connect using any of the comm ports listed in EASUnlock, it does prefer numbers 1-4 so if you can set the USB adaptor to be Com Port 1-4 by using the properties in Device Manager to set it to the required port number....

Simples....
Click to expand...


thats exactly what i did mate, mine was coming up on comm port 13 (eas software only goes up to 12!)

renamed the serial connector as comm port 1 and it all worked perfick.

It was so easy even I a pooter' illerate fool managed it!
 
Works fine on Windows 8 too, just had to watch which comms port it chose when installing usb driver on mine it was comms 5
 
Brilliant Saint, Like the way you say Range Rover walking round the front, and in American too...:)
 
Most things you'd want to: measure heights, set heights, manually lift, lower, turn on compressors, lock in transport mode etc. You cannot set it to the extended extra high ride setting though.


You don't get the strange vehicle has moved fault but you do get a Invalid fault code which presumably is the same thing.
 
I'm a complete beginner as far as this kind of diagnostic stuff is concerned but having become a P38 owner think I might need to get with it asap! The demo is impressive and the RSW software obviously good stuff. Is there any other software (and lead) available to access any other CUs on P38? or do I need to get a Nanocom? (I'm still wanting to adjust my idle speed)
 
plumbfisher said:
I'm a complete beginner as far as this kind of diagnostic stuff is concerned but having become a P38 owner think I might need to get with it asap! The demo is impressive and the RSW software obviously good stuff. Is there any other software (and lead) available to access any other CUs on P38? or do I need to get a Nanocom? (I'm still wanting to adjust my idle speed)
Click to expand...

Nothing cheap will do anything other than the EAS as demoed by Ant. You need Nanocom for best diag. What is wrong with idle speed have you mentioned it before?
 
Mine is 2.5 DT. Idle speed just feels to fast. It shows about 900 on the rev counter. A pal put his Snap-on diagnostics on it ( it read 850) but thought he couldn't adjust it.

There's another reason too... the crossmembers above the headlining seem to have come unstuck from the roof and the idle speed as it is sets off the vibration. I need to take out the headlining and fix this I know...
 
plumbfisher said:
Mine is 2.5 DT. Idle speed just feels to fast. It shows about 900 on the rev counter. A pal put his Snap-on diagnostics on it ( it read 850) but thought he couldn't adjust it.

There's another reason too... the crossmembers above the headlining seem to have come unstuck from the roof and the idle speed as it is sets off the vibration. I need to take out the headlining and fix this I know...
Click to expand...

Have you had the pump top off? Idle speed should be 750 +- 50 RPM. Maybe it has been set at 900 to cover a quantity servo problem. You need proper diag to have a look at things. If on Nanocom the setting is at 128 with no faults recorded odds on pump top is out of position. You would need to make sure setting is 128 then slacken centre section of pump very slightly and tap it back or forwards until you get a rock steady 750 RPM with a warm engine then torque it back up.
 
Thanks Wammers - I'll have a look into it. Maybe I will have to get a Nanocom - I take it this is what you mean by 'a proper diag'. I take it that I should not be messing with the pump without first getting the diagnostics on it.
 
plumbfisher said:
Thanks Wammers - I'll have a look into it. Maybe I will have to get a Nanocom - I take it this is what you mean by 'a proper diag'. I take it that I should not be messing with the pump without first getting the diagnostics on it.
Click to expand...

No don't play with pump at all until you know were it's at diagnostic wise. If there is nothing wrong on diag then odds on someone has had the top off to change seals and not set it up correctly. Or as i said someone may have increased the idle to cure a stalling problem caused by quantity servo feedback pot being worn.
 
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