frankenbus

Member
Hi, apologies to all, as usual I find myself only having the time to post when I or more specifically the P38 has problems. Anyway, its winter again and the Rangie has hit me with another eas problem although it has not to date gone to fault mode. I've checked through the forums but can't find my specific issue listed. The EAS compressor has basically stopped pumping. I checked recently and the suction felt OK but as I say now it just doesnt pump. I reckon after all the eas issues over the past couple of years the compressor has finally waved the white flag but not wanting to give up without a fight I was wondering if there is any way of testing the pump in situ or on bench before I start looking for a replacement. I've eliminated thermal shutdown cos it doesnt do anything to get hot.
Thanks for any thoughts/advice

Andy:confused:
 
Before you remove it - see if the connections on the multiplug are all working, ours went through a phase of having the occasional 1/2 hour off and this was due to the small black and purple wire that was not making a contact within the plug. If you gave it a wiggle the pump would spring into life. Worth a try?
 
Thanks, had a wiggle of the large plug earlier but not specific wires. Wife out in truck at the moment so will try when she gets back
 
Before you remove it - see if the connections on the multiplug are all working, ours went through a phase of having the occasional 1/2 hour off and this was due to the small black and purple wire that was not making a contact within the plug. If you gave it a wiggle the pump would spring into life. Worth a try?

Sadly either my wire wiggling technique isnt up to scratch or connections to pump were ok. Thanks for the advice anyway though
 
You say you have eliminated the Thermo Switch...but I wouldn't discount it....

If by grounding the Orange(?) wire it runs, the Thermo switch is fecked....if it still don't run, it ain't that!
 
Thanks, had a wiggle of the large plug earlier but not specific wires. Wife out in truck at the moment so will try when she gets back
Wifes out in it with a duff compressor? You must really hate her:violent: Won't be long before it's on the bump stops with no air supply.
Does the compressor run? If it does take off the blue pipe in the EAS BOX and read Wammers "How To". If it doesn't run, check the relay and thermal switch. I f those are OK it's likely to be the brushes. This assumes it's not in hard fault mode when it will not run.
 
Wifes out in it with a duff compressor? You must really hate her:violent: Won't be long before it's on the bump stops with no air supply.
Does the compressor run? If it does take off the blue pipe in the EAS BOX and read Wammers "How To". If it doesn't run, check the relay and thermal switch. I f those are OK it's likely to be the brushes. This assumes it's not in hard fault mode when it will not run.

Lol! Truck is now virtually on bump stops, wife recovering at mothers......Result!. Joking aside, apart from a couple of seconds feeble operation yesterday before ceasing again yesterday, the compressor wont run. It isn't in hard fault mode but have cable, laptop and unlock software at the ready. Kettle is on for coffee and a good read thru Wammers' "How To".
 
Lol! Truck is now virtually on bump stops, wife recovering at mothers......Result!. Joking aside, apart from a couple of seconds feeble operation yesterday before ceasing again yesterday, the compressor wont run. It isn't in hard fault mode but have cable, laptop and unlock software at the ready. Kettle is on for coffee and a good read thru Wammers' "How To".
Assuming it's getting power, either the rear bearing has gone or the brushes. Either way it's easier to replace it unless you are good with a soldering iron.
 
Has anyone considered its not running because there is plenty of air and the problem lays elsewhere ?
 
An Update. Theres no continuity between orange and black wires with compressor removed so looks like thermal switch is jiggered, rear bearing in bits so that looks jiggered and unit is noisy which adds weight to that theory, unit powers up when 12v applied across black and green wires but hardly any output so checked piston seal and cylinder/liner, guess what, they're jiggered. Methinks time for a new compressor. Thanks for all the help advice and support. One last thing, is it possible to put a meter across the input wires of the compressor plug to check input supply without damaging the relay? Thanks again
 
An Update. Theres no continuity between orange and black wires with compressor removed so looks like thermal switch is jiggered, rear bearing in bits so that looks jiggered and unit is noisy which adds weight to that theory, unit powers up when 12v applied across black and green wires but hardly any output so checked piston seal and cylinder/liner, guess what, they're jiggered. Methinks time for a new compressor. Thanks for all the help advice and support. One last thing, is it possible to put a meter across the input wires of the compressor plug to check input supply without damaging the relay? Thanks again
Easier and better to do a visual check on the relay contacts with the cover off:)
 
Has anyone considered its not running because there is plenty of air and the problem lays elsewhere ?

One thing is for certain, if there is no air no matter how well everything else works the EAS will not function. So before you do anything else you check for good pressure.
 
Unless the coil fails never. Then they can only stay shut. The valve stuck open fault is never the valve actually stuck open. It is usually a miss call when there is a comms error.

How about if it had some debris stuck in it holding it open ?
 

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