Mammoth
New Member
In a nutshell
After a few hours the rear offside is on the bump stop.
Prior to providing feedback please read the following, it might help you to help me.
1 - Suspension never leaked, ever! Was always inflated in the morning, at the level I left it.
2 - Overhauled EAS valve block and compressor as vehicle is 1998 and 120k miles and thought an overhaul prior to it breaking was a good idea.
3 - After overhaul of valve block, rear both sides of suspension went to bump stops after 4/5 hours.
4 - Read some of the advice threads on this forum and subsequently rebuild the valve block and tested for leaks 6 times.....no leaks from valve block connectors (Tested with trusty fairy liquid and water)
5 - Now we are down to only the rear offside deflating to the bump stops, 'assuming' leak was via a valve that was tightened a little too tight to the valve block.
Here is the interesting bit...!
I am trying to divide and conquer why only the rear offside is leaking air.
6 - At the valve block I sealed off the offside rear (OSR) EAS valve (No 2 valve I believe) with a short length of 6mm tube and a push fit valve.
7 - I also trimmed the original OSR air pipe where it slots into the valve block (Just in case I damaged it during the valve block renovation) and fitted a push fit valve.
8 - I inflated the now isolated OSR air bag and allowed the EAS system to inflate the other three airbags and level off at high setting.
9 - Three days later the suspension at all corners is still at high setting. No leaks.
Now here is where I bang my head on the wall.
10 - I now connect the OSR rear air tube directly to the No 2 valve on the valve block. As the original air tube was trimmed I use a length of 6mm tube (Which has been heated and shaped so it does not put stress on the connections) and a Norgen steel bodied straight 6mm to 6mm coupling, which are reputed to be very reliable. The joints were checked for leaks several times and showed no signs of leakage whatsoever.
A few hours later the OSR is on the bump stops....:smash:
Now! I could run a replacement air line from the OSR to the valve block but! I already know the existing line is good.
The only obvious weak area is the straight connector and new short length of 6mm tube but it does not show any leaks.
Question
What can cause the OSR to drop to it's bump stop from within the valve block.
Bear in mind I have rebuilt the thing 6 times meticulously and have ensured the screws / bolts are not too tight but snug enough to nip up the new O rings....
I sincerely hope someone can shed light on this, due to it being the OSR valve it has meant stripping out the valve block completely each time.
Thanks.
After a few hours the rear offside is on the bump stop.
Prior to providing feedback please read the following, it might help you to help me.
1 - Suspension never leaked, ever! Was always inflated in the morning, at the level I left it.
2 - Overhauled EAS valve block and compressor as vehicle is 1998 and 120k miles and thought an overhaul prior to it breaking was a good idea.
3 - After overhaul of valve block, rear both sides of suspension went to bump stops after 4/5 hours.
4 - Read some of the advice threads on this forum and subsequently rebuild the valve block and tested for leaks 6 times.....no leaks from valve block connectors (Tested with trusty fairy liquid and water)
5 - Now we are down to only the rear offside deflating to the bump stops, 'assuming' leak was via a valve that was tightened a little too tight to the valve block.
Here is the interesting bit...!
I am trying to divide and conquer why only the rear offside is leaking air.
6 - At the valve block I sealed off the offside rear (OSR) EAS valve (No 2 valve I believe) with a short length of 6mm tube and a push fit valve.
7 - I also trimmed the original OSR air pipe where it slots into the valve block (Just in case I damaged it during the valve block renovation) and fitted a push fit valve.
8 - I inflated the now isolated OSR air bag and allowed the EAS system to inflate the other three airbags and level off at high setting.
9 - Three days later the suspension at all corners is still at high setting. No leaks.
Now here is where I bang my head on the wall.
10 - I now connect the OSR rear air tube directly to the No 2 valve on the valve block. As the original air tube was trimmed I use a length of 6mm tube (Which has been heated and shaped so it does not put stress on the connections) and a Norgen steel bodied straight 6mm to 6mm coupling, which are reputed to be very reliable. The joints were checked for leaks several times and showed no signs of leakage whatsoever.
A few hours later the OSR is on the bump stops....:smash:
Now! I could run a replacement air line from the OSR to the valve block but! I already know the existing line is good.
The only obvious weak area is the straight connector and new short length of 6mm tube but it does not show any leaks.
Question
What can cause the OSR to drop to it's bump stop from within the valve block.
Bear in mind I have rebuilt the thing 6 times meticulously and have ensured the screws / bolts are not too tight but snug enough to nip up the new O rings....
I sincerely hope someone can shed light on this, due to it being the OSR valve it has meant stripping out the valve block completely each time.
Thanks.