So I have been dealing with some EAS issues for the last couple weeks. I recently went from coils back to EAS. Everything has been working OK. No warning lights or error codes besides "vehicle has moved".

The truck has been given all new OEM bags and sensors. Also the compressor,valve block and drier have been refurbished/rebuilt.

Now to the problems Ive been having...The suspension is gaining 25mm in fronts in 12hours and the rears are losing 25-35mm in 12 hours. I am told that this may be a solenoid leak issue which I am soon going to check that I installed everything correctly. Otherwise she seems to work nicely while driving. I have also tried to find external leaks with soap solution to no success.

Also I just noticed that every once in awhile I will feel like my axles are crossed up while driving. And the other day I quickly parked the truck after this feeling and she was indeed very high on one of the rears(RL) and possibly very low on the opposing front(FR). Driver Pack maybe?

And even more oddly now every time I start the truck she wants to start out in access mode. Regardless of the inhibit switch. Which definitely works because I can lock the suspension in crawl mode for parking garages and the truck also wont automatically lower itself when travelling at high speeds. Out of recommendation, I have cut,soldered,heat shrink,and wrapped the white plug in the A pillar kick panel. Which for the first day after rewiring; she worked exactly normal with no change. Only after the first day she wanted to start out in wade height, which she now prefers access height on startup.

I have read a procedure to reset codes and heights,leave in normal mode,and wait 5-10 minutes for the ecu to power down its processes. Which is what I am trying right now as I type this..

Also I have noticed that the truck no longer does a proper self check on startup. I believe that when turning the ignition to position 2; normally all the eas height lights will light up along with the dash symbol and then after a self check, the dash symbol will disappear along with the unselected EAS heights. Eventually showing only the height that I am currently in. It no longer does that... and all the heights will stay illuminated until I actually start the engine. But I may be mistaken because I haven't had EAS for very long.

And finally I have some excessive compressor use because the truck will slowly raise itself while the compressor is filling the tank,only to stop the compressor then let out 3-4 clicks of air...She will then restart the compressor and then will slowly start raising while the compressor is running. Eventually she will stop the compressor again and lower the truck 3-4 clicks..and round and round we go. Oddly again, it usually only happens in the lower(less than 100psi ) PSI range. After she slow dances around a bunch of times when she finally hits 100psi she will usually just fill the tank as normal until the pressure switch threshold has been reached. And everything will function normally from there on out unless I deplete all the air..

I am open to any and all tips and advice you wise folks can provide..Please help. Thanks in advance!

It’s what the others told you. If it goes up while engine not running it’s a leak, dancing normally set point across axle too far out, exhaust leak will break lines etc

There should be error codes, but what diagnostics are you using?

Ignore the vehicle moved one it’s nothing

Have a look in the Tech archive top left of range rover home page Wammers did a post on how to test the eas system ,
i assume you have taken out the bypass cable that is normally fitted to p38`s on sp****gs
check the white plug behind the left hand a post cover (drivers side for you) for green corrosion most people cut plug out and solder and heat shrink the wires.

RangeRoller dt said:

It’s what the others told you. If it goes up while engine not running it’s a leak, dancing normally set point across axle too far out, exhaust leak will break lines etc

There should be error codes, but what diagnostics are you using?

Ignore the vehicle moved one it’s nothing

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I have been using RSW software. I understand that the fronts should be within 2bits of each other. I have mine set equally across the front on all heights because I do not know what “2bits” is in the RSW software. Even though the front heights from wheel center to fender are not equal(off by 5-7mm Left-Right). Although when I first got the EAS working I naturally just set the heights to be physically equal except 5mm lower in the fronts. Sensor readings were never far off but I still had the slow dance with compressor cycling on/off.

How far does all your heights differ? I’ve noticed that with 4 brand new sensors they read about the same left to right with my live data readings.Never thought such a small difference would make the ecu so unhappy but Iam trying to play it’s game and I am losing seems like..

brianp38dse said:

Have a look in the Tech archive top left of range rover home page Wammers did a post on how to test the eas system ,
i assume you have taken out the bypass cable that is normally fitted to p38`s on sp****gs
check the white plug behind the left hand a post cover (drivers side for you) for green corrosion most people cut plug out and solder and heat shrink the wires.

Click to expand...

Yes I have cut the plug and soldered them..I would’ve said that was the problem but for the first day after I soldered them...it worked just fine like it always did...Only the day after it started to go to wade height on its own..And yesterday it decided she prefers the access mode so now I go to access every time I start her up...

Also my bypass was removed from being jumpered at the ecu...

I’m pretty sure I went thru that sticky a few times...But I will once again just in case I missed something...I’ve been doing a lot of reading these days so all the info seems similar I may have skimmed over some stuff..

Thanks for all the replies and ideas..

Also I think it’s pretty funny that the word “springs” is a banned word here lol

The heights are stored in bits 0 - 256 rather than mm or inches.

Long time to fill might be a hole in the pipe to the reservoir, check where it goes near the exhaust.

If you imagine the valve block on its side with holes at top then the airlines match the same corners of the square where they plug in. Should be colour coded. If RAVE does show then PaulsP38a website will.

When the valve block was put back on did the pipes go into the right holes?

Grrrrrr said:

The heights are stored in bits 0 - 256 rather than mm or inches.

Long time to fill might be a hole in the pipe to the reservoir, check where it goes near the exhaust.

If you imagine the valve block on its side with holes at top then the airlines match the same corners of the square where they plug in. Should be colour coded. If RAVE does show then PaulsP38a website will.

Click to expand...

It actually fills really quick with the door open to prevent the height hunting. I would say that I average in the 7-8min range from empty. Its only when I shut the door and let the truck do its dance that it takes awhile.

Also there is confirmed a very small leak in my tank line. It is coming from my compression joint gauge fitting. I lose about 20psi in 12 hours. Truck always lifts on command in the morning; with no delay. I cant go all the way up and down twice but she has no problem putting me in wading height from access right after startup.

ovalandrover said:

When the valve block was put back on did the pipes go into the right holes?

Click to expand...

Yes. And somehow if I did not. Wouldnt that throw a code pretty quick? I drive her around and I get the magic carpet ride on the turns and rough roads...So I had imagined that everything was working well.

Thanks for the reply

Grrrrrr said:

The heights are stored in bits 0 - 256 rather than mm or inches.

Click to expand...

Do you happen to know what that equates to for RSW software?

Seems like the normal sensor range for this software can go from 55-155..I haven't tried to extend/contract the bags more than that..

P38Rover said:

Do you happen to know what that equates to for RSW software?

Seems like the normal sensor range for this software can go from 55-155..I haven't tried to extend/contract the bags more than that..

Click to expand...

Have you correctly calibrated ALL the heights? If you have not you will have problems because if any height setting is out of range the suspension will throw a wobbly. Don't worry about "bits", you are just presented with a number by the diagnostics which you increase or decrease to obtain the correct height for each corner at each level.
A difference of 5 across the axle is acceptable.

Datatek said:

Have you correctly calibrated ALL the heights? If you have not you will have problems because if any height setting is out of range the suspension will throw a wobbly. Don't worry about "bits", you are just presented with a number by the diagnostics which you increase or decrease to obtain the correct height for each corner at each level.
A difference of 5 across the axle is acceptable.

Click to expand...

Okay, so the difference of 5 across the axle ONLY for the fronts? Because recently I had to make my own mount for one of the rear sensor arms. The result is a static height difference of about 5-7 units.

Also it hadnt occurred to me until now that I might need to proportionally set the heights of all settings to make ALL height settings work equally well.

I have my current access mode nearly as low as she can go.
Then I have my highway mode still low but with some gap in the wheel wells.
Normal mode is still on the lower side close to highway height.
And I have my wading height on the high side, nearly as high as she can go safely without unseating a bag.

Now I know that there are "acceptable limits" deemed by the ecu however should these heights all be equally on the low side of the acceptable range or maybe all equally on the high side? Does it matter?

I have gone too far before and the ecu wiped all my settings and I had to start over..I thought that if I were to stay in an acceptable range, the heights would get written and it would do its thing? Possible I underestimated the complexity of the EAS and it is still truly unhappy and throwing a fit?

Firstly you say you have rewired the delay relay, reinstate it to normal function. Take it out and remove cover, check for dry or broken solder joins on it's board. If found repair. Only then start to diagnose problems. When setting heights do not go within 10 bits of upper or lower parameters for each height. You will find permitted bit counts for each height listed in EASunlock tech sheet that should come with the hardware and software.

wammers said:

Firstly you say you have rewired the delay relay, reinstate it to normal function. Take it out and remove cover, check for dry or broken solder joins on it's board. If found repair. Only then start to diagnose problems. When setting heights do not go within 10 bits of upper or lower parameters for each height. You will find permitted bit counts for each height listed in EASunlock tech sheet that should come with the hardware and software.

Click to expand...

Ever since I started getting random heights on startup I actually went back to the original delay timer. She doesnt self level much at all overnight anyways. But you may be onto something about the timers circuit board. I very recently pulled the cover off by accident and it could've knocked something loose. I will definitely check that first thing tomorrow.

I will also look for that EASunlock tech sheet. I dont remember getting much with the kit besides the cord.

Thanks for the suggestions!

P38Rover said:

Ever since I started getting random heights on startup I actually went back to the original delay timer. She doesnt self level much at all overnight anyways. But you may be onto something about the timers circuit board. I very recently pulled the cover off by accident and it could've knocked something loose. I will definitely check that first thing tomorrow.

I will also look for that EASunlock tech sheet. I dont remember getting much with the kit besides the cord.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Click to expand...

You should have received a disc with the software on it. Tech sheet and instructions should be on that.

You have the right diagnostic, listen to these two ^^^

P38Rover said:

I have been using RSW software.
How far does your heights differ?

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Zero - EAS won’t fit my tyres ; I don’t have it

P38Rover said:

Also it hadnt occurred to me until now that I might need to proportionally set the heights of all settings to make ALL height settings work equally well.

I have my current access mode nearly as low as she can go.
Then I have my highway mode still low but with some gap in the wheel wells.
Normal mode is still on the lower side close to highway height.
And I have my wading height on the high side, nearly as high as she can go safely without unseating a bag.

Now I know that there are "acceptable limits" deemed by the ecu however should these heights all be equally on the low side of the acceptable range or maybe all equally on the high side? Does it matter?

I have gone too far before and the ecu wiped all my settings and I had to start over..I thought that if I were to stay in an acceptable range, the heights would get written and it would do its thing? Possible I underestimated the complexity of the EAS and it is still truly unhappy and throwing a fit?

Click to expand...

You need to look at my post in the Tech archive, measurements for all height settings are listed. You MUST stick to these heights, deviation will cause all sorts of problems.

P38Rover said:

Also it hadnt occurred to me until now that I might need to proportionally set the heights of all settings to make ALL height settings work equally well.

I have my current access mode nearly as low as she can go.
Then I have my highway mode still low but with some gap in the wheel wells.
Normal mode is still on the lower side close to highway height.
And I have my wading height on the high side, nearly as high as she can go safely without unseating a bag.

Now I know that there are "acceptable limits" deemed by the ecu however should these heights all be equally on the low side of the acceptable range or maybe all equally on the high side? Does it matter?

I have gone too far before and the ecu wiped all my settings and I had to start over..I thought that if I were to stay in an acceptable range, the heights would get written and it would do its thing? Possible I underestimated the complexity of the EAS and it is still truly unhappy and throwing a fit?

Click to expand...

You do not have a free choice of height settings, each height setting has a limited range that is valid.
All heights MUST be set correctly.
You may need to adjust your new mount to stay in range.

P38Rover said:

Okay, so the difference of 5 across the axle ONLY for the fronts? Because recently I had to make my own mount for one of the rear sensor arms. The result is a static height difference of about 5-7 units.

Click to expand...

Should be 5 or less ideally.