oakey

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Full Member
EAS compressor was running for longer than usual for a while then was running constantly without rising from access height. 92k on clock so reckoned pump probably needed changing as other threads estimate all EAS only good for about 80k. Also had been going to wade height on its own and threads reckon driver pack was knackered.
All springs replaced a while back as one burst and others looking awfully tired.

Replaced driver pack and compressor.
New driver pack connector was missing two pins with red wires which go to green thing on bottom of valve block. I pulled pins from oild connector and pushed into new one,


Pump still runs for ages without raising.
Suction at pump
No air at exhaust
Air going to drier
Air coming from drier to valve block
No visible leaks at valve block using detector stuff.

Compressor running for ages (over 6 minutes) with standard height light flashing but no movement of car.

What am I missing?

Any help or advice would be appreciated. Ta
 
Could be leaky pipe, been known for an exhaust leak to melt pipe at rear, do you have eas software for diag, if not pm DATATEK on here he can sort you out with lead and software cheeper than fleebay.
 
Yes I have RSW diagnostics software. It doesnt flag a fault before I switch off to stop pump overheating.
 
If the compressor is giving good air you have a leak. Check compressor output, if good look for a leak.
 
Thanks for help.
The tank doesnt leak at pipe entry using leak detector stuff.
 
Thanks for help.
The tank doesnt leak at pipe entry using leak detector stuff.
As Wammers said, either there is a leak, or the compressor is not making air. Melted pipes are not unknown. Check the compressor as per Wammers guide in the "How Too" section.
 
I had a very similar problem. Rebuilt the compressor again myself, and it worked fine. Although seals looked new in the compressor must have been damaged when whoever rebuilt it before did it. Maybe your new compressor was a rebuilt one and wasn't done correctly?
 
I have good air at compressor.
I do have a leaking exhaust above back axle.
Where does the airline go?
I cant find a melted bit on what I can see but dont know what path it takes
 
Pipe for O/S air bag runs down N/S of car then crosses over above chassis above and behind fuel tank and back to O/S bag. N/S pipe runs down O/S of car then crosses over in same position to fit in N/S bag.
 
Thats a bummer
What is the plumbing in the valve block?
I have identified the four spring pipes and the drier pipes.
There are two other pipes, one a bit smaller at the front of the block and a very small one above the exhaust.
I presume one goes to and from the tank.
Could I put an airline on the end of that pipe to find the leak?
Which pipe?
 
Thats a bummer
What is the plumbing in the valve block?
I have identified the four spring pipes and the drier pipes.
There are two other pipes, one a bit smaller at the front of the block and a very small one above the exhaust.
I presume one goes to and from the tank.
Could I put an airline on the end of that pipe to find the leak?
Which pipe?

6 mm pipe at front is feed to tank. Small 4 mm is vent from base of diaphragm valve into loom. Bit of info here. EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide | PaulP38A.com
 
Great leap forward (kind of)
Attached external air line to pipe to tank.
Great big gi-huge air leak above box section above rear axle.
I can touch pipe but that's about all.
I have no idea how to get to it to re3place it so I am going to cut it where I can see it and try and wiggle new pipe through chassis until i can connect to other side.

Does that sound reasonable?
 
No but the pipe from valve block to tank.

As far ass I understand it my pipe is two way and all bags are fed from the valve block
 
Yes, you're right. Sorry, my brains all fried from EAS stuff and tinkering with nanocom!
 
Great leap forward (kind of)
Attached external air line to pipe to tank.
Great big gi-huge air leak above box section above rear axle.
I can touch pipe but that's about all.
I have no idea how to get to it to re3place it so I am going to cut it where I can see it and try and wiggle new pipe through chassis until i can connect to other side.

Does that sound reasonable?

I'd prefer to replace the whole pipe but I'm sure it'd be OK to just replace the damaged part. Airtek make airlines for aerospace and trucks. Decent quality! They're not expensive and you can get straight connectors. Think it is 6mm pipe but someone will confirm.
 
I'd prefer to replace the whole pipe but I'm sure it'd be OK to just replace the damaged part. Airtek make airlines for aerospace and trucks. Decent quality! They're not expensive and you can get straight connectors. Think it is 6mm pipe but someone will confirm.

You are correct Grrrrrr:)
 

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