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MattBrownP38

Member
my p38 is currently really down on power, all was fine until I went to do an overtake and it was as flat as a pancake, and the check engine light came on.

it revs fine when standing still,but the round engine breather on the side of the air intake is loose on both sides and won't fix back in. also every minute or so when running you can hear air going back through the air intake and a mini explosion in the air filter box????

there is also tiny specs of oil coming from the exhaust when first started and the intercooler pipes were pretty gunged up, could this be linked?

before it went wrong there was a whistling sound when driving but that has now dissapeared

and to top it off the radiator blew a tiny hole at the same time (it had previously been repaired badly so I guess it was just a matter of time), but it never overheated.

any help would be great.

Matt
 
I am thinking Turbo Hose / intake hose has come adrift...the whistling noise is the Turbo spinning up....

If yours is post 99 it could be a dudgey EGR valve...

Wammers and Datatek are Diesel Gurus....
 
Number four injector. Check connections. Check all electrical connections to pump. For check lamp coming on. Other than that you need diagnostics on it.
 
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defender300td1 said:
check your turbo and assotiated pipes whistleing is usualy a hole in one of the pipes.
Click to expand...

Leaking hose will not put check lamp on. But will cause lack of power. Sounds like a turbo pipe has collapsed internally. Plus an electrical fault.
 
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cheers guys, I have ordered a new tubo to intercooler hose as it looked a bit rough, but it had no noticeable holes etc...

the previous owner said the injector pump was replaced about a year ago, could it be anything to do with that?
sorry I am new to Range Rover's so just trying to work out how it goes together!
 
defender300td1 said:
true but it whistling or was by the sound of it nothing to do with check light tho:)

needs to sort out the air box first port of call
Click to expand...

Favorite maybe turbo hose collapse or blocked intercooler. Breather blowing out would indicate that air being forced back through intake when turbo spools up as it has nowhere to go because of blockage. But none of that should cause check lamp to come on.
 
wammers said:
Favorite maybe turbo hose collapse or blocked intercooler. Breather blowing out would indicate that air being forced back through intake when turbo spools up as it has nowhere to go because of blockage. But none of that should cause check lamp to come on.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of getting the intercooler off and giving it a good clean as all the pipes were gunged up with oil so i'm guessing the intercooler could well be blocked.

I also noticed when i first started it up after the check engine light came on that smoke was coming form the back of the engine, towards the bulkhead. I put it down to oil just burning off and it did eventually stop.Now i'm thinking that it could be somethign more serious?
 
MattBrownP38 said:
I was thinking of getting the intercooler off and giving it a good clean as all the pipes were gunged up with oil so i'm guessing the intercooler could well be blocked.

I also noticed when i first started it up after the check engine light came on that smoke was coming form the back of the engine, towards the bulkhead. I put it down to oil just burning off and it did eventually stop.Now i'm thinking that it could be somethign more serious?
Click to expand...

You need to do a bit of checking. Clean intercooler and check all pipes for internal delamination. Clean everything out for a start. Check lamp coming on on acceleration will be a sensor, possibly number four injector or a pump fault. Is it an EGR engine? Fault will be logged so diagnostics will tell you what is was that caused it.
 
wammers said:
You need to do a bit of checking. Clean intercooler and check all pipes for internal delamination. Clean everything out for a start. Check lamp coming on on acceleration will be a sensor, possibly number four injector or a pump fault. Is it an EGR engine? Fault will be logged so diagnostics will tell you what is was that caused it.
Click to expand...

I will clean the intercooler and check the pipes. the check lamp light is on all the time, how do i tell if it's an EGR engine?, its a 97 DSE if taht helps
 
MattBrownP38 said:
I will clean the intercooler and check the pipes. the check lamp light is on all the time, how do i tell if it's an EGR engine?, its a 97 DSE if taht helps
Click to expand...

It won't be EGR then. Does it have a plastic inlet manifold or a alloy one. If the check lamp is on all the time, odds on it will be number four injector duff or connections to it. Check them. But it does sound as if you have other issues also. So do the intercooler and check the turbo pipes. Without putting it on diagnostics everything is a guess. Maybe a likely guess but a guess all the same.
 
MattBrownP38 said:
I will clean the intercooler and check the pipes. the check lamp light is on all the time, how do i tell if it's an EGR engine?, its a 97 DSE if taht helps
Click to expand...
If the inlet manifold is plastic it has an EGR, if the manifold is alloy it does not, unless it's had the engine changed and it has an Omega inlet manifold.
 
thanks everyone for their replies... got the car plugged in to the diagnostic this morning.
It logged "ECU has engine speed needle lift sensor fault" , garage has quoted £148 for a new injector, does that sound about right?

also i'm not sure if it's my imagination but since being on the diagnostic this morning and having the intercooler pipes cleaned and replaced where needed, it isnt that down on power anymore!!!, only slightly noticeable. Is it worth changing the injector still?
 
Did they clear the fault and then test drive to see if it returns??

Could be an old uncleared fault....but your price is very good...Island4x4 list and OEM quality Injector at between £140-150....

Ask the garage if they cleared the fault and test drove and the fault returned....
 
the fault would not clear . One of the intercooler pipes had a broken jubilee clip so when i went to leave this morning it was very down on power, max 30mph.. but now with the pipe back in place it is much better, but still a noticeable lack of power.

I just dont want to pay out for an injector that does'nt really need replacing.
 
MattBrownP38 said:
the fault would not clear . One of the intercooler pipes had a broken jubilee clip so when i went to leave this morning it was very down on power, max 30mph.. but now with the pipe back in place it is much better, but still a noticeable lack of power.

I just dont want to pay out for an injector that does'nt really need replacing.
Click to expand...
If the needle lift sensor fault will not clear, check out the wiring, if that's OK you do need to replace the sensor.
 
MattBrownP38 said:
thanks everyone for their replies... got the car plugged in to the diagnostic this morning.
It logged "ECU has engine speed needle lift sensor fault" , garage has quoted £148 for a new injector, does that sound about right?

also i'm not sure if it's my imagination but since being on the diagnostic this morning and having the intercooler pipes cleaned and replaced where needed, it isnt that down on power anymore!!!, only slightly noticeable. Is it worth changing the injector still?
Click to expand...

Yes change the injector if the fault returned, it controls pump dynamic timing. £148.00 retail is good. Or you could try cleaning connections to it first and see what you get.
 
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Ok thanks very much, it's booked in to have it replaced on thursday morning. The garage is about 15 miles away, I have driven it there and back today obviously but I want to avoid any further damage. I can borrow a trailer if necessary but it will be a lot of hassle, is it ok to drive?
 
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