My drivers door handle is knackered. I fitted the cam kit but it made little difference sadly.

I see some ebay sellers are selling just the door pull handle part, is this a feasible repair or am I better off getting the whole handle and doing a lock swap?

This what it looks like when i pull it out, I may need to repalce the plastic spacers which sit underneath as well

p38_door_handle.jpg
 
Last edited:
TheTree said:
My drivers door handle is knackered. I fitted the cam kit but it made little difference sadly.

I see some ebay sellers are selling just the door pull handle part, is this a feasible repair or am I better off getting the whole handle and doing a lock swap?

This what it looks like when i pull it out, I may need to repalce the plastic spacers which sit underneath as well

View attachment 312203
Click to expand...
Both my front door handles do this, for the moment I've developed the habit of tapping them back in before closing the door... Not a solution by any means. For me and if I'm given the option I'd just replace the handles with new. 🤔
 
TheTree said:
My drivers door handle is knackered. I fitted the cam kit but it made little difference sadly.

I see some ebay sellers are selling just the door pull handle part, is this a feasible repair or am I better off getting the whole handle and doing a lock swap?

This what it looks like when i pull it out, I may need to repalce the plastic spacers which sit underneath as well

View attachment 312203
Click to expand...
It may be a trick of the light, but the handle base with the lock in it does not look well seated to the door. As Mark said, the handles often need a tap to push them back.
 
I contacted JLR classic parts, but no joy there , there was also a handle for sale on eBay but it sold today :(

I guess I just have to keep searching

The only other idea I has was to build up the worn bit with expoy putty and reshape it to make it work better

Kind of stuck now :(

Thanks for all the suggestions !

Steve
 
TheTree said:
So I bought a good pull handle from a reputable ebay seller who reckons it will solve my problem.

Before I fit it I am going to get a 3D scan done, so the pull handles can be printed if other people have the same issue, and mine works !
Click to expand...
Is that scanning the cam? I would guess that the material used to make a cam is the important consideration? I have just replaced all the headlight adjusters on my In-laws Jag as the old ones have broken, used a kit with "lifetime guarantee" and different material. When I removed the old ones they crumbled into dust, so possibly not the right plastic from factory for long term use?
 
jimmacD said:
Is that scanning the cam? I would guess that the material used to make a cam is the important consideration? I have just replaced all the headlight adjusters on my In-laws Jag as the old ones have broken, used a kit with "lifetime guarantee" and different material. When I removed the old ones they crumbled into dust, so possibly not the right plastic from factory for long term use?
Click to expand...
"Long term" is not in the manufacturers vocabulary.
Stuff just needs to last 3 to 5 years.
 
No it's scanning the "Pull Handle" which is the handle part of the door handle, I have attached a pic. I do have a passenger side cam kit, so i could get that scanned at the same time. Feck knows what material the originals are made from, they do seem to still produce the cam kits so these must be a high failure items
 

Attachments

  • pull_handle.jpg
    pull_handle.jpg
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TheTree said:
No it's scanning the "Pull Handle" which is the handle part of the door handle, I have attached a pic. I do have a passenger side cam kit, so i could get that scanned at the same time. Feck knows what material the originals are made from, they do seem to still produce the cam kits so these must be a high failure items
Click to expand...
Yep, knew you were going to 3D the pull handle, not sure why as these seem readily available, fleabay is alright but more parts etc.. on dreaded fb marketplace and owners sites, probably just need a good and bad one to compare them and points of wear?
 
Datatek said:
"Long term" is not in the manufacturers vocabulary.
Stuff just needs to last 3 to 5 years.
Click to expand...
As the Guru of all things P38, how the feck do I get the back seats out? Doing the fuel pump today and after some cutting I think I could make a cleaner job with the two seater out. I have assumed it was two torx 40 bolts to body and then slide back with the front of the hinge in a bracket?
 
jimmacD said:
As the Guru of all things P38, how the feck do I get the back seats out? Doing the fuel pump today and after some cutting I think I could make a cleaner job with the two seater out. I have assumed it was two torx 40 bolts to body and then slide back with the front of the hinge in a bracket?
Click to expand...
I have never had the need to remove the back seats so I cannot help you. I dropped the tank on both mine to do the pump.
 
jimmacD said:
As the Guru of all things P38, how the feck do I get the back seats out? Doing the fuel pump today and after some cutting I think I could make a cleaner job with the two seater out. I have assumed it was two torx 40 bolts to body and then slide back with the front of the hinge in a bracket?
Click to expand...
If you look at the carpet as it drops down towards the floor pan under the rear seat front edge there are two more torx screws for each seat 👍
 
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jimmacD said:
As the Guru of all things P38, how the feck do I get the back seats out? Doing the fuel pump today and after some cutting I think I could make a cleaner job with the two seater out. I have assumed it was two torx 40 bolts to body and then slide back with the front of the hinge in a bracket?
Click to expand...
They fold forward and then forward again. Shirley that's enough room.?
 
Datatek said:
Access to cut from the rear with the seats folded would be a bit difficult I think
Click to expand...
A mate chopped his floor to replace the pump against my protests and although I wasn't present, he definitely didn't remove the seats.
 
+1 on drop the tank & do it properly.

If you really want to butcher the floor, there's no real need to remove seats, but there's the torx at the front as well. RAVE shows it pretty well, but does not have floor cutting info :rolleyes:

RAVE does also explain how easy it is to remove the tank !!

1710362942950.png
 
Flossie said:
A mate chopped his floor to replace the pump against my protests and although I wasn't present, he definitely didn't remove the seats.
Click to expand...
Just spoke to him and he said it was a bit awkward because of a dip in the floor but didn't remove anything.
 
Flossie said:
Just spoke to him and he said it was a bit awkward because of a dip in the floor but didn't remove anything.
Click to expand...
You can do it with seats in place but it is easier with them removed and I have made a better job as the fuel line connectors where rusted solid, more room to repair. It's a case of do it and you will realise how much easier with seat removed.
 
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