acidK1

acidK1

Member
Hi all,

I know this is covered a lot but just need a couple of answers really. Had my p38 a few months and it's been fine, always had to use the key in the door to lock and unlock the drivers door (only ever worked that door) and use the fob to lock the others. Fine, untill my fob wouldn't unlock the other doors, which meant I could not start the truck. AA couldn't help so sent for a truck to pick me up. While waiting I tried a few things and the last was to pull drivers door card off at bottom (no screwdriver) and wiggle the wires and after 3 hrs it all unlocked and started. Work I g ever since.

I have since pulled drivers card off and fiddled around and now all the doors lock and unlock using the key in the door, but drivers door will not operate using the fob. Pulled it apart again today and fiddled with the plugs and while the card was off, closed the door and used the fob and drivers door working with the rest. Jump for joy, put card back on, closed the door and now not working. So my questions;

Am I right to assume this is a connection somewhere and the latch is ok?

Is there a specific wire(s) I need to test somehow?

Could the latch be sticky inside? Should I remove and take apart and regrease?

Any other suggestions?

Thank you : )
 
The doorlatch switch-packs are prone to failure.
There is a guide to testing it all.
 

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I wouldn't regrease inside. There is some white grease in there but doubt it is that bad inside.

The wire should be pinned back out of the way of the window regulator. If it isn't (someone with banana fingers has been in there and snapped the clips) then the wire can foul the window regulator mechanism as it goes up and down and eventually the wire breaks inside. The other favourite is the microswitches on the bottom of the lock actuator slowly giving up the ghost. One of them grounds the boot button and seems to take more current than it likes so tends to burn out first.
 
I have checked the wiring, all seems good and still pinned out if the way. I have run a continuity test as above (DanClarke) said, and my machine beeps with button up and down, so there is a fault there. Is this a DIY fix? ie cut this more and do this click your heals and it's done, or a new latch assembly?

Cheers for all your help :)
 
Just left my door card off and closed truck up until I get a reply and the drivers door is locking and unlocking on the fob! I did push and pull the button to lock and unlock the door a few times with the latch wiring unplugged.
 
Last edited:
acidK1 said:
Just left my door card off and closed truck up until I get a reply and the drivers door is locking and unlocking on the fob! I did push and pull the button to lock and unlock the door a few times with the latch wiring unplugged.
Click to expand...
Do you mean the sill button? I had one that was tight in the rod guides, lubed it and waiting to see if it has cured my drain problem.may be worth checking that out.
 
New latch is not cheap, but 2nd hand ones on eBay you are taking a risk with.
I think I paid £147 for my new latch, they are £173 +Vat on rimmer bros.
 
The MGF lock actuators have the same internals if you get the right year. Components clip in and out on the old actuators although the microswitches are trickier on the more modern ones.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The MGF lock actuators have the same internals if you get the right year. Components clip in and out on the old actuators although the microswitches are trickier on the more modern ones.
Click to expand...
And what year is the right year?
I have a late model P38 and its all sealed units, but I know the switches can be bought from RSComponents or Farnell for peanuts.
 
DanClarke said:
And what year is the right year?
I have a late model P38 and its all sealed units, but I know the switches can be bought from RSComponents or Farnell for peanuts.
Click to expand...

It'll be the same year as yours. For later models I'd just get a refurbed one off Marty.
 
You can get individual switches to replace the moulded ones in 'later' latches (from about 1997 onwards they started being used).

The issue is that the mounting pins on the moulded blocks of switches are ever so slightly different to the mounting holes on the individual switches, so to put 'normal' microswitches in, you need to pin them (I use M2.5 threaded rod) which involves drilling extra holes in the casing and electrics plate where the motors are, so that when pinned in place, the buttons on the microswitches are in the proper place for the mechanical levers to activate the switches when they're supposed to.

Bit of a pain in the backside, but doable!
 
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