blackstrat
Well-Known Member
Bet vilguy's missus could turn it over..
Bet vilguy's missus could turn it over..
Hold on ... has Eaglesalz got 2 threads going here?
Not unless he has two accounts.
No I have not. I had this problems before confused. I just came across this one and wanted to let him know how I got mine started (sort off, a bit funny looks yesterday when in the supermarket and lifted the bonnet to start the engine, or is that normal for a bonnet to be up on a P38:lol after looking at all the replies on here and will look into what Datatek has suggested about the switch.
The starter circuit is quite simple. Power comes to both sides, pin 1 relay pull and pin 3 solenoid power, relay 16. From either MF 2 pre 1999 or fuse 40 post 1999. Pull circuit then goes via relay pin 2 through BECM back to ignition switch. Providing BECM has no objection which it can have for various reasons. When ignition switch is moved to position 1,2 or 3 the circuit is grounded. Position 3 pulls relay. When relay is pulled it makes pin 3 to pin 5 and puts power from MF 2 or fuse 40 to starter solenoid. If position 1 position 2 on ignition switch work then the circuit is being grounded. So this only leaves a bad connection at position 3 if the ignition switch is responsible. Remove relay and test for voltage between pins 1 and 2 when key is turned to position 3. If none that side of the circuit must be the problem. As you can bridge pins 3 and 5 to start the car the pull circuit is favourite. Or the relay is knackered but think you have already tried that. So after establishing voltage to pin 1 relay 16 you will have to trace power flow from pin 2 relay 16 to appropriate input pin BECM and from output pin BECM to ignition switch. If all have continuity switch must be faulty. If no continuity between any of the pins the fault lays between them.
Thanks for that Wammers j ust the answer I was looking for with all the numbers. Now I can look further.