Liverpoolluke
Member
Back to basics buddy.
I think checking the static timing would be a good start incase there has been unknown work not done correctly.
Then, when that is confirmed as a definite then the electronic stuff comes into play. What do you think kidda?
I think checking the static timing would be a good start incase there has been unknown work not done correctly.
Then, when that is confirmed as a definite then the electronic stuff comes into play. What do you think kidda?
The email I got didn't say this??Just want to see some fuel come out
Only trying to help out mate. Not rip into you..
Liverpoolluke
Member
Back to basics buddy.
I think checking the static timing would be a good start incase there has been unknown work not done correctly.
Then, when that is confirmed as a definite then the electronic stuff comes into play. What do you think kidda?
Would love to check the static timing, just dont know how
have nanocom not scared of tools but an lpg lover with V8's normally
Hang in there, wammers and few others can put you on the right track. Its the little plug that sits in the middle of the injector pipe fittings on the back of the fuel pump. A gauge goes in there and tells you the displacement needed inside the pump. Then you'll know it's correctly positioned/adjusted.
Then...... You can start on the rest of the gizmos and flappy bits that make a difference.....
Too many glasses of wine.... But there is sense in there somewhere...
Then...... You can start on the rest of the gizmos and flappy bits that make a difference.....
Too many glasses of wine.... But there is sense in there somewhere...
Fair enough, only ever checked mine with engine warm and running as per @wammers how to.
There can be no accurate modulation figure unless the engine is warm and running at 750 rpm. Modulation required to correct retarded or advanced static timing is arrived at by the ECU comparing actual point of injection as given by injector number four and TDC as indicated by flywheel timing pips. Modulation is used to regulate internal fuel pressure against a spring on the timing device that is turned to either advance or retard injection. If there is no rpm above 500 and no fuel being injected by number four injector there cannot be a correct modulation figure shown. Are you absolutely sure you have properly read the EMS code from the engine ECU and copied and written it into the BECM in BECM diagnostic mode. I believe the BECM and engine ECU have lost sync, therefore the engine ECU is not being switched on and the quantity servo/emergency stop valve are not functioning. Having a Nanocom is one thing knowing how to use it is quite another. If you don't know how to do static timing don't even try it. Get someone who knows what they are doing to look at the car for you. As said earlier as far as i am aware you cannot just swap a BECM unless the details for your car are correctly loaded into it. Others may know more about that than i do.
Liverpoolluke
Member
I am lost with p38's sadly more of l322 man, @wammers i am.only in liverpool how much would you charge to pop down and take a look at it for me?
Can't do it my friend wish i could, health problems prevent that.
Liverpoolluke
Member
Not found anyone to come help me as yet
just cant seem to complete it myself, i dont understand where i can get fuel stsrt points etc, at the point where i want to just change the fip now everything points to that not being right, the spare fip i have is the one of my other car where the becm came from
Not found anyone to come help me as yet
You are not listening, when the ignition is switched on the BECM compares the EMS code stored in it with the EMS code in the engine ECU. If they match it turns on the engine ECU which controls the injection pump. The ECU lifts the stop valve, sets start fuel by way of the quantity control servo and activates glow plugs subject to engine temp. If that is not working because the EMS code has not been correctly written into the BECM and the correct EDC mode is not set, it will never start whilst you have a hole in your bottom.
So, if I understand this correctly, the application of a butt-plug will get his engine going?
You learn something new every day on LZ Butt[sic], somehow this may not be what you meant.
I remember one of my father's favourite sayings being ...."as long as you've got a hole in your arse.......".
So, if I understand this correctly, the application of a butt-plug will get his engine going?
Butt[sic], somehow this may not be what you meant.
I remember one of my father's favourite sayings being ...."as long as you've got a hole in your arse.......".
I was being slightly more polite.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I'm sure you are right Tony, loss of sync.
Have you downloaded RAVE yet? Everything is in there. You'll need some locking tools and a dial-guage to set the FIP up properly. Mine's a '95 and I am pretty sure it won't run if I set it to early EDC, only if set to Late EDC.
@Datatek, he says the EMS code from the ECU matches what is in the BECM in an earlier post.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
If u have a nanacom did you syn c the new BECM with the car when you changed it and did u change the engine ECU
Liverpoolluke
Member
Thats right, the ems code is set manually and automatically double checked
I have set the becm to early and late resyncing the security everytime to be sure
For confirmation i have fuel to the inlet of fip just nothing past it
The bit i am slightly lost on is when @wammers mentioned having to set up fuel values?
