Bern768

Well-Known Member
I have faults codes 1 and 5 I know one is the injector sensor but the other one is has a description of fuel amount mechanism is that the advance solenoid in the pump? And would it be caused by the fact that the injector sensor has given up? Unfortunately I don't have access to nanocom and have my snap on scanner that's not the best live data etc, any help would be greatly appreciated :D
 
I have faults codes 1 and 5 I know one is the injector sensor but the other one is has a description of fuel amount mechanism is that the advance solenoid in the pump? And would it be caused by the fact that the injector sensor has given up? Unfortunately I don't have access to nanocom and have my snap on scanner that's not the best live data etc, any help would be greatly appreciated :D

Could be. Check no-one has trapped the wire on the #4 injector. I got a replacement #4 from Eurocarparts for £70 but it looks like I got lucky.

Quantity servo is how the fuel amount mechanism in the top of the FIP is usually referred to. Doesn't tend to go wrong unless someone has been playing with the pump or chain-stretch takes it out of range. RAVE has procedure to set the static timing.
 
I have checked the wiring for the sensor and its open circuit so I know that's faulty as had it apart yesterday and seems odd that it runs fine no diesel knock or blue smoke to suggest that the timing is out
 
I have checked the wiring for the sensor and its open circuit so I know that's faulty as had it apart yesterday and seems odd that it runs fine no diesel knock or blue smoke to suggest that the timing is out

If sensor is bust it runs on default values from crank sensor. The quantity servo just fine tunes injection.
 
Does your scanner read modulation? If it does take % reading stone cold then fully warm. Too far out could put QS out of a comfortable range for its age.
No4 sensor should cause mil lamp to flash
 
Deal with the known fault and see what develops from there.
I had the fourth leaking diesel and I replaced it before anything else developed. Unfortunately not a cheap injector but a needed repair. ;)
 
Does your scanner read modulation? If it does take % reading stone cold then fully warm. Too far out could put QS out of a comfortable range for its age.
No4 sensor should cause mil lamp to flash
My scanner doesn't have that on there, has mg per stroke which is within tolerance and all the normal like fuel temp air temp map sensor etc which all seem somewhere around where they need to be the only odd thing I could find was the air temp said - 47 but I'm sure I read somewhere that the egr models where set like that anyway??
 
No4 injector is your priority. Wiring/connector is common to fault and usually serviceable, sensor is either ok or injector needs replacement. Early/late applies
Take a look see if there’s anything physically noticeable
 
No4 injector is your priority. Wiring/connector is common to fault and usually serviceable, sensor is either ok or injector needs replacement. Early/late applies
Take a look see if there’s anything physically noticeable
I know the wiring side of it is OK as had the loom out of it when my fuse box died and done a pin out continuity test on the whole loom, had it apart and the injector plug registers open circuit instead of the 180ohms that it should be so I'm guessing another 200quid plus bill for parts again if I can find one in stock anywhere, also had a look over for mot that's due next month have got axle ball joints to do after that I think most of it is new lol with everything else it's had the past few months
 
It's a 38' thing. Axle ball joints, seals, pollen filter leaks, heating rad Orings.. Brake lines.. Viscous... We are rebuilding a great vehicle!!
So far it's had, springs and shocks all round, both rear calipers and pads all round, a fuel pump rebuild,a new tank pump, heater matrix and orings, gearbox cooler and pipes, engine cooler and pipes, new propshaft ujs and rubber coupling, new fuse box, crank sensor, wheels and tyres obviously they was optional, rear diff and a replacement key, have ordered extended brake hoses and front arm to chassis bushes for it and obviously now need the swivel ball joints and the injector, also have sent my duff key off to fobfix too so hopefully end up with a spare fingers crossed, I have probably missed a few smaller bits but have lost track now :confused:
 
I know the wiring side of it is OK as had the loom out of it when my fuse box died and done a pin out continuity test on the whole loom, had it apart and the injector plug registers open circuit instead of the 180ohms that it should be so I'm guessing another 200quid plus bill for parts again if I can find one in stock anywhere, also had a look over for mot that's due next month have got axle ball joints to do after that I think most of it is new lol with everything else it's had the past few months

It could be a break in the wire somewhere, probably near the injector itself as people tend to trap the wire tightening it up. Just a case of checking continuity until you reach the casing.
 
So far it's had, springs and shocks all round, both rear calipers and pads all round, a fuel pump rebuild,a new tank pump, heater matrix and orings, gearbox cooler and pipes, engine cooler and pipes, new propshaft ujs and rubber coupling, new fuse box, crank sensor, wheels and tyres obviously they was optional, rear diff and a replacement key, have ordered extended brake hoses and front arm to chassis bushes for it and obviously now need the swivel ball joints and the injector, also have sent my duff key off to fobfix too so hopefully end up with a spare fingers crossed, I have probably missed a few smaller bits but have lost track now :confused:
Yip.... About right :rolleyes:;)
 

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