Stig1

Active Member
I've just got myself a 2000 p38 dhse auto but unlucky for me the rad has split at the top reading about this I can see it's a common problem either bad design or the rad or pressure build up in the system . I've been looking at the all aluminium rads but cant find one that's listed just to fit the auto only manual and the only difference I can see is the two outlets on the bottom think they are for cooling the manual gear box . Can I buy the manual one and just blank the two ports off ? Or has anyone fitted a diffrent rad as a upgrade ? Was thinking if the one from the v8 would fit as that has top and bottom inlet and outlets would just need a different hose . Any advise and info very appreciated please
 
I've just got myself a 2000 p38 dhse auto but unlucky for me the rad has split at the top reading about this I can see it's a common problem either bad design or the rad or pressure build up in the system . I've been looking at the all aluminium rads but cant find one that's listed just to fit the auto only manual and the only difference I can see is the two outlets on the bottom think they are for cooling the manual gear box . Can I buy the manual one and just blank the two ports off ? Or has anyone fitted a diffrent rad as a upgrade ? Was thinking if the one from the v8 would fit as that has top and bottom inlet and outlets would just need a different hose . Any advise and info very appreciated please

Not many if any auto rads about. You could get them a few years ago, i got one for mine when the top split. But now makers only seem to make manual ones for both applications. Fitting a manual one and blanking the oil cooler outlets would be fine.
 
Thank you
Split RAD's are common. If you want to play, it is just possible with some fiddling to fit the RAD from the GEMS V8.
You can also get custom made all metal RADS, I have one on my project car.
 
I think I have one of them rads, at the bottom of it you just close it off with a spanner, tbh its the best one I have had so far, got it as damaged from eBay for next to nothing as well
 
Be just my luck the head will be scrap . What's the bleed procedure for these once a new rads fitted
 
What’s the mileage? Heads can go but aren’t too bad they can take a fair cooking.

Is theV8 has head issues.
 
Be just my luck the head will be scrap . What's the bleed procedure for these once a new rads fitted

Just make sure the pipe to the expansion tank is free and fill it up. Run it a while topping up as required. Some people park it on the steepest hill they can find.
 
Be just my luck the head will be scrap . What's the bleed procedure for these once a new rads fitted
It helps to raise the front of the car a little and to rapidly squeeze and release the top RAD hose with the engine idling. Make sure there is a trickle of coolant out of the bleed pipe into the expansion tank.
As others have said, check the baffle in the header with the marble test.
 
Well bit of good news for a change as you know I've just brought this p38 and the rad split on our way home and reading all the stories about HGF and heads cracking I was expecting the worse as the coolant system seems to keep building pressure . So I got me a testing kit and got the car up to temp hoses started to go hard I did the test twice just to make sure and as you can see in my picture the blue test fluid didn't turn yellow showing there isnt any gases getting into the system so that's all good but wondering why I'm getting pressure I'm turning towards the coolant cap it's a right pain to remove when cold but easy when warm . I've got a good strong flow of water back to the bottle so would say the water pump is working so either the cap . Stat . Or massive air lock what would you folks say cheers for your help
 

Attachments

  • 20191108_210043.jpg
    20191108_210043.jpg
    143.8 KB · Views: 137
Well bit of good news for a change as you know I've just brought this p38 and the rad split on our way home and reading all the stories about HGF and heads cracking I was expecting the worse as the coolant system seems to keep building pressure . So I got me a testing kit and got the car up to temp hoses started to go hard I did the test twice just to make sure and as you can see in my picture the blue test fluid didn't turn yellow showing there isnt any gases getting into the system so that's all good but wondering why I'm getting pressure I'm turning towards the coolant cap it's a right pain to remove when cold but easy when warm . I've got a good strong flow of water back to the bottle so would say the water pump is working so either the cap . Stat . Or massive air lock what would you folks say cheers for your help
Coolant pressure should be around 5 to 7 PSI engine up to temp at idle.
 
Well bit of good news for a change as you know I've just brought this p38 and the rad split on our way home and reading all the stories about HGF and heads cracking I was expecting the worse as the coolant system seems to keep building pressure . So I got me a testing kit and got the car up to temp hoses started to go hard I did the test twice just to make sure and as you can see in my picture the blue test fluid didn't turn yellow showing there isnt any gases getting into the system so that's all good but wondering why I'm getting pressure I'm turning towards the coolant cap it's a right pain to remove when cold but easy when warm . I've got a good strong flow of water back to the bottle so would say the water pump is working so either the cap . Stat . Or massive air lock what would you folks say cheers for your help
Normal pressure in the system makes the hoses feel hard. The cap if I remember correctly is set to 14psi.
 

Similar threads