I agree. I'm not sure how much I would trust a second-hand one without it being refurbished either.
I agree, just a shame they aren't run of the mill anymore. The latest pumps are below 500€ refurbished... The older stuff over here is at least twice that:eek:
 
Surely if the crack pressure was higher it would have delayed injection and that would mess with the modulation as it would try to advance it but for 5 cylinders it would be too far advanced?
Wammers told me they would fit but I’d have to change sensor wiring. Plan was to pull a complete set out of a EGR one, not mismatch, although slightly higher pressure probably means nothing to a not-new injector. Not gonna change to plastic manifold but later ones get extra bhp from somewhere and for sake of pulling something off a scrapper
Throttle response is unusual, all the action is in the last 30% of peddle movement
Throttle actuator playing up??
 
So is that normal to be slow like this?
Not when new. Mine was sluggish and I guessed it always would be underpowered and need chipping. Few break downs later and new parts (mostly cleaning up originals as I go) doesn’t need chipping - itl shift if provoked with little more than a good dose of tlc. I will get more power out of it as there are still some issues but got plenty for what I need handles off-road and motorways easily enough aside much newer, lighter and aerodynamic cars.
 
Hi my dear friends
As the most of you said, The FIP was the problem for the most issues I faced, I changed the FIP to the used one and was ok, only I noticed that the car is vibrating some times even when it's stopped, I didn't use the injectors witch they came with it, only I used the no.4 injector which comes with the sensor. Any advice for the vibrating issue?
 
Hi my dear friends
As the most of you said, The FIP was the problem for the most issues I faced, I changed the FIP to the used one and was ok, only I noticed that the car is vibrating some times even when it's stopped, I didn't use the injectors witch they came with it, only I used the no.4 injector which comes with the sensor. Any advice for the vibrating issue?

If you mean it has a rough idle that could be a sticky injector.
 
Put a whole bottle of inj cleaner in half a tank, get it up to temperature and give it a blast down motorway, get the revs up a little
Watch the crud come out the back!
 
Put a whole bottle of inj cleaner in half a tank, get it up to temperature and give it a blast down motorway, get the revs up a little
Watch the crud come out the back!
The injectors are the same, I didn't change them. but do you think it's better to put the injectors witch they came with FIP?
 
The injectors are the same, I didn't change them. but do you think it's better to put the injectors witch they came with FIP?

I would have thought that just adds another variable. However, Wammers is the expert. I am no expert, just a tinkerer who has had some issues owning one of these. I'd go with what Wammers says although I am suspicious it started only after the FIP changed.

Have you got an automotive stethoscope? Or a long screwdriver to transfer the vibration to your head? Can you narrow down where the vibration is coming from using it?
 
If the engine is running rough at idle open each injector in turn and note any difference. If you open an injector and the engine is worse that is ok. If you open one and there is no change that is the duffer. It could be a sticky injector or a leaking delivery valve.
 
You may not need diagnostic when you have a Wammers :)

You could check the LZ map see if any of us around here do - they may come and do it for you for a small bribe of tea/cake/beer

Do as the boss says and report back, take it from there and she’ll be running sweet in no time ;)
 

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