Static timing is the FIP pump swivel position. As chains wear and stretch over time it can need adjusting. Here is mine if you want to see what it is - https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5dt-fip-static-timing-ominous-hotstart-found.347592/
Grrrr probably has thread too as will others, Bagshot was an immense help to me on this also, Wammers is king as always, entropyUK etc, loads have documented it. should be plenty in search bar.

How to do it is in RAVE - a manual for P38s you should look at. I wouldn’t trust any garage to do mine accurately but I had to get a correct dti gauge and timing pin, then learn how to do it.
 
williamadam said:
Thank you a lot, when he set up the hot start kit it seems better now.but I notice, when I am driving in road and doesn't need to press the diesel pedal the engine light is lighting but as I press pedal again it has gone, also still when I change the gear if I take more time not pressing the diesel pedal the car is stopped.
Click to expand...

^^^ that sounds like a quantity servo problem :(
 
williamadam said:
Thank you a lot, when he set up the hot start kit it seems better now.but I notice, when I am driving in road and doesn't need to press the diesel pedal the engine light is lighting but as I press pedal again it has gone, also still when I change the gear if I take more time not pressing the diesel pedal the car is stopped.
Click to expand...

That isn't right.

So as you lift off the throttle the engine light comes on? Remind me how many miles this car has done and if the fuel injection pump is new / refurbished.

I think we have at least one other member in Norway but cannot remember if they have a Nanocom. Might be on the Landyzone International Rescue Map. Be good to get decent diagnostics on it and get a trace. I suspect it is suffering chain stretch and a tired FIP. Best check the lift pump is working as it should though as that won't help if duff and is a lot cheaper to replace. Wammers did a How To in the Technical Section.
 
williamadam said:
Thank you a lot, when he set up the hot start kit it seems better now.but I notice, when I am driving in road and doesn't need to press the diesel pedal the engine light is lighting but as I press pedal again it has gone, also still when I change the gear if I take more time not pressing the diesel pedal the car is stopped.
Click to expand...
Looks like the FIP is worn out or the timing is way out. Not a good idea to fit the hot start to try to cover up a problem, it just complicates things.
 
Hotstart was made to help a new/healthy engine with a design flaw (later models don’t need it). Will mask other fuelling issues and is sometimes added as a band aid to an actual problem but is not a solution (as when fitted to a 2002 p38 for example) Does that make sense? :)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Hotstart was made to help a new/healthy engine with a design flaw (later models don’t need it). Will mask other fuelling issues and is sometimes added as a band aid to an actual problem but is not a solution (as when fitted to a 2002 p38 for example) Does that make sense? :)
Click to expand...
Later models suffer from the hot start problem when the timing is far enough out due to chain stretch. At the moment the modulation is 70%+ on my project car and it requires a fair bit of cranking on a hot start.
 
Datatek said:
Later models suffer from the hot start problem when the timing is far enough out due to chain stretch. At the moment the modulation is 70%+ on my project car and it requires a fair bit of cranking on a hot start.
Click to expand...

Mine is at least 70% or 80% But starts immediately. Beru plugs and Platinum battery.
 
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Grrrrrr said:
Mine is at least 70% or 80% But starts immediately. Very plugs and Platinum battery.
Click to expand...
Glow plugs are irrelevant on a hot start, battery on my project car is a nearly new crap Varta that the car came with, it will not start the car in very cold weather, so that may affect the hot start.
 
hot starting was significantly worse when I snapped the plug on cyl1 but is better with a new one. If I put the glows on 3times first when hot itl usually start, occasionally it refuses completely. My hot start brings on glows even when hot is one of the main advantages

If it doesn’t want to start cold mainly I’d check glows are okay and receiving voltage. Good battery/starter will also make big difference, having a 1000cca is, as you taught me, incredible benefit to a P38
 
Hi dear RangeRoller
I have ordered one Tank Pump and fixed it but I notice after he fixed it doesn't work when we fixed it in the diesel tank when he knocks it works, and when he gets the pump out again he test it it's working properly, in the end,
DanClarke said:
Diesel experts here.
Click to expand...

martyuk said:
Just seen I was tagged here... I cant help with the diesel issues, as I have a V8 - but the latch... I see you are in Norway, so I gather you have a LHD vehicle... I think I might have a couple of LHD latches kicking about here on the shelf, but I would need to check.

I'd recommend doing the tests on the microswitches to try and determine which of the front latches is giving the issues (quite often it is the RHF as the tailgate latch grounds through there as has already been mentioned) But jumping door locks could be triggered from either front door as they both have CDL switches which will cause that to happen.
Click to expand...

Grrrrrr said:
One of the signs of a worn FIP is that it is hard to start hot but cooling the FIP with cold water seems to help it start. Unfortunately the cure is fitting a refurbished FIP.
Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:
In tank pump will effect too.
Click to expand...
he returned it to the tank and I heard it's working I heard the voice, but is there is any way to test it when it's in the tank?
 
williamadam said:
Hi dear RangeRoller
I have ordered one Tank Pump and fixed it but I notice after he fixed it doesn't work when we fixed it in the diesel tank when he knocks it works, and when he gets the pump out again he test it it's working properly, in the end,







he returned it to the tank and I heard it's working I heard the voice, but is there is any way to test it when it's in the tank?
Click to expand...

Technical Section, post by @wammers - should pump so much in certain time when bridging the relay. Cannot remember off the top of my head but maybe 180 ml in 30 seconds?
 
Yes there is a test in tech section by our top diesel expert Wammers. You jump the relay and measure the amount in given time. Is easy to do. If pump is okay it may be wiring/connector playing up.

I was advised only get a VDO lift pump, cheaper ones don’t last, sometimes only a few months. If it working you will hear it, do the test and see how much you get wil tell you if it's pumping enough.
 
Grrrrrr said:
That isn't right.

So as you lift off the throttle the engine light comes on? Remind me how many miles this car has done and if the fuel injection pump is new / refurbished.

I think we have at least one other member in Norway but cannot remember if they have a Nanocom. Might be on the Landyzone International Rescue Map. Be good to get decent diagnostics on it and get a trace. I suspect it is suffering chain stretch and a tired FIP. Best check the lift pump is working as it should though as that won't help if duff and is a lot cheaper to replace. Wammers did a How To in the Technical Section.
Click to expand...

Hi dear
The car got 245000 km , the FIP as I bought it I didn't change it, but I changed the lift pump, also I couldn't get the Nanocom to diagnos it. I traveled for 1 week when I get back I start the car, but the battery drain. then after I called the workshop he try to but a charged battery but the engine is disabled, and then I try to enter the code and then I start it, the battery still new but I don't know why it is drained.
For the member who are in Norway I think he has a YouTube channel called : work in p38, but don't know what to say to him he is far away for me.
I got msg in the dashboard says : EAS Manual, I don't know what does that mean.

Thank you Dear Grrrrr
 
williamadam said:
Hi dear
The car got 245000 km , the FIP as I bought it I didn't change it, but I changed the lift pump, also I couldn't get the Nanocom to diagnos it. I traveled for 1 week when I get back I start the car, but the battery drain. then after I called the workshop he try to but a charged battery but the engine is disabled, and then I try to enter the code and then I start it, the battery still new but I don't know why it is drained.
For the member who are in Norway I think he has a YouTube channel called : work in p38, but don't know what to say to him he is far away for me.
I got msg in the dashboard says : EAS Manual, I don't know what does that mean.

Thank you Dear Grrrrr
Click to expand...

These cars will throw all sorts of errors with low volts so fix that first.

Battery drain is usually the RF reciver unit. The original is on 433MHz but not filtered so any signal on 433 (weather stations, wireless doorbells, etc) wake up the BECM and drain the battery. Can even cause the locks to cycle and burn the lock actuators out. Fix is to buy the third generation RF receiver (part number on here somewhere) but it is silly money. @martyuk has come up with a cheaper solution available from his p38spares website. The cheapest solution of all is @brianp38dse two fob trick where he uses a second fob to control a jog switch on the power to the RF reciver unit. The RF reciver unit is under the rear parcel shelf on the right hand side. If it has a blue or yellow dot on it it needs sorting. If it has a green dot check the part number to make sure it isn't a dodgy one off ebay.

There are other possible sources of battery drain. Aftermarket radios are favourite. Eric the Car Guy on YouTube has a good video on finding parasitic battery drain.
 
Last edited:
Grrrrrr said:
These cars will throw all sorts of errors with low volts so fix that first.

Battery drain is usually the RF reciver unit. The original is on 433MHz but not filtered so any signal on 433 (weather stations, wireless doorbells, etc) wake up the BECM and drain the battery. Can even cause the locks to cycle and burn the lock actuators out. Fix is to buy the third generation RF receiver (part number on here somewhere) but it is silly money. @martyuk has come up with a cheaper solution available from his p38spares website. The cheapest solution of all is @briansp38dse two fob trick where he uses a second fob to control a jog switch on the power to the RF reciver unit. The RF reciver unit is under the rear parcel shelf on the right hand side. If it has a blue or yellow dot on it it needs sorting. If it has a green dot check the part number to make sure it isn't a dodgy one off ebay.

There are other possible sources of battery drain. Aftermarket radios are favourite. Eric the Car Guy on YouTube has a good video on finding parasitic battery drain.
Click to expand...
Hi Grrrr
I don't understand, should I buy RC with the green point? it's too expensive, but also I don't get you about the cheapest solution, I checked the website but there is nothing named brains.
Sorry Grrrr, but this is the first time I get Range Rover but really hate it, I will never think to buy one more time, it's so complicated.
What does that mean: EAS Manual?
 
@brianp38dse was me tagging another member on here who has a cheap fix. Hopefully he will share soon.

EAS manual is the electronic air suspension throwing a fault but it may not be real but caused by low volts.

Yes, these cars are hard work to start with until you know their quirks. We've all looked longingly at a box of matches and a can of accellerant at one stage or another.
 
Electric air suspension manual mode.
It means you can select the heights you want within certain speed limits.;)
 
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