W

williamadam

Member
Hi everybody
My car Range Rover P38 2.5D 2000 model, the car was probably starting when it is cold and after it get drive all the time starting probably, but after I wash the engine with water, the car start when it is cold with one crank, but when I stop it after drive and Cranking again it keep cranking but not start sometimes did, and almost not until it get cold again.
Please any advice or suggestions?
 
williamadam said:
Hi everybody
My car Range Rover P38 2.5D 2000 model, the car was probably starting when it is cold and after it get drive all the time starting probably, but after I wash the engine with water, the car start when it is cold with one crank, but when I stop it after drive and Cranking again it keep cranking but not start sometimes did, and almost not until it get cold again.
Please any advice or suggestions?
Click to expand...
P38's do not like water. Diagnostics would be my suggestion.
 
williamadam said:
Hi everybody
My car Range Rover P38 2.5D 2000 model, the car was probably starting when it is cold and after it get drive all the time starting probably, but after I wash the engine with water, the car start when it is cold with one crank, but when I stop it after drive and Cranking again it keep cranking but not start sometimes did, and almost not until it get cold again.
Please any advice or suggestions?
Click to expand...

You might have got number 4 injector wet. That can cause issues, especially if you blast it with a burning stream of red-hot steam from a jet-wash that can cut through bricks. Just ask @tomcat59alan ...
 
Grrrrrr said:
You might have got number 4 injector wet. That can cause issues, especially if you blast it with a burning stream of red-hot steam from a jet-wash that can cut through bricks. Just ask @tomcat59alan ...
Click to expand...
Thank you for your reply, I washed it with normal water nothing else and it was cold. If the problem with number 4 injector, should I replace it or is there any suggestion?
My regards
 
williamadam said:
Thank you for reply, the only msg I got is Temperature air sensor -35. When I diagnose.
Click to expand...
That is for the IAT which is not fitted to your car so the default -35 is shown.
If you have diagnostics, look at EDC temperature sensor, crank sensor, needle lift sensor and MAP sensor with the engine running. Try unplugging the MAF sensor. While you are at it you could check the modulation.
 
As above.

If you don't have diag then a hairdryer around #4 injector might be worth a shot. Be careful of the wires.
 
williamadam said:
Thank you for your reply, I washed it with normal water nothing else and it was cold. If the problem with number 4 injector, should I replace it or is there any suggestion?
My regards
Click to expand...

So did Tomcat. The exaggeration was me teasing him a bit.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Get back in your shed,I'm surprised you can remember my post,it was so long ago.:p:D
Click to expand...

I try to make sure it is mentioned at least once a month, that way my goldfish memory has a chance.

I wish I was back in my shed. Back at work waiting for another computer restart to complete ...
 
Grrrrrr said:
As above.

If you don't have diag then a hairdryer around #4 injector might be worth a shot. Be careful of the wires.
Click to expand...

A failed number four injector will not prevent starting. More likely the plug to the injection pump is damp.
 
Odd it works cold but not hot. That sounds more like chain-stretch and hotstart issue but I though the 2000 model didn't suffer from that?
 
Hi guys again
Thank you for your replays, I am still suffering from this problem and other, I change the injector no4 I bought a used one and the problem still, I bought also from eBay (hot start kit) and the manual say , it has for wires 2 blue they should connect one to the signal wire number 1 in the coolant temperature sensor which I don't know where it's located and the other one the ECU, and the 3rd cable is red which it should connect to the 12v ignition and the black one to the ground, all of this I don't know where they located, and the coolant temperature sensor as well.
Also when I start driving the car there is no power and it's so slow even if I press the pedal to the end, but after 4 -5 sec it's drive faster.
When I drive on the way the center lock start locking and unlocking sometimes.
Please help me with some pictures or video if there is a solution with more explanation, I love Range Rover but I don't have any experience in the mechanic.
Many thank in advance.
 
williamadam said:
Hi guys again
Thank you for your replays, I am still suffering from this problem and other, I change the injector no4 I bought a used one and the problem still, I bought also from eBay (hot start kit) and the manual say , it has for wires 2 blue they should connect one to the signal wire number 1 in the coolant temperature sensor which I don't know where it's located and the other one the ECU, and the 3rd cable is red which it should connect to the 12v ignition and the black one to the ground, all of this I don't know where they located, and the coolant temperature sensor as well.
Also when I start driving the car there is no power and it's so slow even if I press the pedal to the end, but after 4 -5 sec it's drive faster.
When I drive on the way the center lock start locking and unlocking sometimes.
Please help me with some pictures or video if there is a solution with more explanation, I love Range Rover but I don't have any experience in the mechanic.
Many thank in advance.
Click to expand...

Have you downloaded RAVE yet? At the end is an electrical section showing all wiring with pictures of the location. RAVE is linked in the Technical Section.

@martyuk on here refurbs the locks with uprated microswitches but people keep failing to return their old units so he might be short.

Also, the boot switch degrades over time and can start leaking water. It earths through the driver's centre microswitch but if water is present in the switch it can cause odd behaviour.

@wammers is the diesel God. For slow pickup I just don't know. It has a throttle pot. Maybe the first part is worn? Or maybe the fuel injection isn't being advanced enough on acceleration? Pump timing too far retarded? I don't know and am just guessing but Wammers will know. @Datatek or @kds might know as well.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Have you downloaded RAVE yet? At the end is an electrical section showing all wiring with pictures of the location. RAVE is linked in the Technical Section.

@martyuk on here refurbs the locks with uprated microswitches but people keep failing to return their old units so he might be short.

Also, the boot switch degrades over time and can start leaking water. It earths through the driver's centre microswitch but if water is present in the switch it can cause odd behaviour.

@wammers is the diesel God. For slow pickup I just don't know. It has a throttle pot. Maybe the first part is worn? Or maybe the fuel injection isn't being advanced enough on acceleration? Pump timing too far retarded? I don't know and am just guessing but Wammers will know. @Datatek or @kds might know as well.
Click to expand...
Needs to go on diagnostics for the engine problem.
Sort the power problem BEFORE fitting the Hot Start mod or you will just be adding to the potential problems.
 
williamadam said:
Also when I start driving the car there is no power and it's so slow even if I press the pedal to the end, but after 4 -5 sec it's drive faster.
When I drive on the way the center lock start locking and unlocking sometimes.
Many thank in advance.
Click to expand...

Does it do the 4-5 sec thing when cold?? Could be a hotstart issue effect.

Look up ‘ghost locking’ in search bar. @DanClarke is good with this there is also a test sheet on here somewhere by MartyUK
 
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