The 2000my was only example of incorrect hotstart application
Same thing as Alan I was thinking about different becms- could have swapped engine, becms, or even a later version setup with early head/manifold thrown on it. I’m not familiar with OPs vehicle and not over familiar with diagnostics

If OP can photograph the nanocom screen you guys could probably tell what’s what
 
Been thinking about your post Jack, wonder if it has had an engine transplant, using an older engine? Does it have a plastic or metal inlet manifold @pchats
Hiya,
It is ( as far as I know, having only had it a few weeks ) a genuine 1996 RR p38 DSE Manual. It does not have EGR and yes has the alloy inlet manifiold.

Good news is that I have had it running again yesterday and managed to give it a good shakedown drive for a good half an hour... without any coolant loss or over heating. So pretty pleased.

My main concern is the engine ECU is not getting the correct coolant temp of the running engine as my nanocom evo readings are saying the temps are in the neg- degrees pre start up and only getting to +1.6 degrees temperature at what I believe ( going by the now functioning dash temp gauge, showing half up the scale ) to be proper operating temp.
So if the engine ECU is only getting cold temp readings... I believe the engine will be overfuelling? Would this be correct???

This M51 does not appear to have a heat start mod done to it either, as may have been suggested earlier.
 
The 2000my was only example of incorrect hotstart application
Same thing as Alan I was thinking about different becms- could have swapped engine, becms, or even a later version setup with early head/manifold thrown on it. I’m not familiar with OPs vehicle and not over familiar with diagnostics

If OP can photograph the nanocom screen you guys could probably tell what’s what
Will do.. and thanks again guys
 
Hiya,
It is ( as far as I know, having only had it a few weeks ) a genuine 1996 RR p38 DSE Manual. It does not have EGR and yes has the alloy inlet manifiold.

Good news is that I have had it running again yesterday and managed to give it a good shakedown drive for a good half an hour... without any coolant loss or over heating. So pretty pleased.

My main concern is the engine ECU is not getting the correct coolant temp of the running engine as my nanocom evo readings are saying the temps are in the neg- degrees pre start up and only getting to +1.6 degrees temperature at what I believe ( going by the now functioning dash temp gauge, showing half up the scale ) to be proper operating temp.
So if the engine ECU is only getting cold temp readings... I believe the engine will be overfuelling? Would this be correct???

This M51 does not appear to have a heat start mod done to it either, as may have been suggested earlier.

Actually I think it adjusts the fuelling using the inlet air temperature but it might still over fuel if the engine temperature is showing as cold. I think that's the one the hot start kit uses.

2 options: dodgy guage or someone has been fiddling and put a resistor along the thermostat wire somewhere.
 
IAT sensor is LR006796
 

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Hiya,
It is ( as far as I know, having only had it a few weeks ) a genuine 1996 RR p38 DSE Manual. It does not have EGR and yes has the alloy inlet manifiold.

Good news is that I have had it running again yesterday and managed to give it a good shakedown drive for a good half an hour... without any coolant loss or over heating. So pretty pleased.

My main concern is the engine ECU is not getting the correct coolant temp of the running engine as my nanocom evo readings are saying the temps are in the neg- degrees pre start up and only getting to +1.6 degrees temperature at what I believe ( going by the now functioning dash temp gauge, showing half up the scale ) to be proper operating temp.
So if the engine ECU is only getting cold temp readings... I believe the engine will be overfuelling? Would this be correct???

This M51 does not appear to have a heat start mod done to it either, as may have been suggested earlier.
Sounds like either a duff sensor, a broken wire or bad connection. The ECU will certainly be over fueling if it thinks the engine is cold, t may also be restricting power.
If the sensor has a single wire, corrosion in the thread where it goes into the head may be the problem.
I think if you disconnect the sensor you will get the same temperature reading as you have which will prove a lack of continuity in the circuit.
Double check for a hot start mod which may be hidden in the ECU box behind the battery because the mod overrides the temperature sensor to fool the EDC into thinking the engine is cold so richening the mixture to aid starting. Some hot start mods do not have a timer so the ECU thinks the engine is always cold which is damaging.
 
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