Datatek
Well-Known Member
Which would point to the crank pulley damper maybe.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Need to bin the viscous fan as well and fit my aircon fans mod.
Nialox
Active Member
Need to bin the viscous fan as well and fit my aircon fans mod.
You have sent me that! It’s in the works. Just keeps getting put on the back seat when more imminent problems pop up! It’s the p38 life! Love and hate it!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I don't keep records
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Nialox
Active Member
Two months later the car is sorted!
Took it to the local Indy. Nothing came up on diagnostics. Turns out the timing chain was so slack the pump was pretty badly out of timing. Tensioners worn too. It was apparently too far gone to even adjust timing.
Anyway that and the combination of the fuel mass flywheel on its way out made me come to the decision to just be gentle on it for as long as possible until it dies.
However by chance when buying a new motorbike (happened to be from another landy indy). Managed to make a deal with them for a Significantly Lower Milage engine, low miles flywheel and new clutch fitted for £750!!!
Car is completely transformed. Smooth as anything. Flywheel/clutch is perfect. Starts hot and cold on a dime.
So that’s another P38 kept on the road!!!
now just to fix the LH-F door sensor which now reads open 24/7!!!
Been looking into PSI power boxes too. I’m not worried about MpG or added power. I’m concerned as to how much strain it puts on the engine. I’m not a fast driver and I rarely floor it. I’d just like a bit more grunt. But if it’s going to accelerate engine wear significantly ill stay clear.
Cheers
Took it to the local Indy. Nothing came up on diagnostics. Turns out the timing chain was so slack the pump was pretty badly out of timing. Tensioners worn too. It was apparently too far gone to even adjust timing.
Anyway that and the combination of the fuel mass flywheel on its way out made me come to the decision to just be gentle on it for as long as possible until it dies.
However by chance when buying a new motorbike (happened to be from another landy indy). Managed to make a deal with them for a Significantly Lower Milage engine, low miles flywheel and new clutch fitted for £750!!!
Car is completely transformed. Smooth as anything. Flywheel/clutch is perfect. Starts hot and cold on a dime.
So that’s another P38 kept on the road!!!
now just to fix the LH-F door sensor which now reads open 24/7!!!
Been looking into PSI power boxes too. I’m not worried about MpG or added power. I’m concerned as to how much strain it puts on the engine. I’m not a fast driver and I rarely floor it. I’d just like a bit more grunt. But if it’s going to accelerate engine wear significantly ill stay clear.
Cheers
Not if it's reprogrammed properly.
That should have showed up on timing modulation. Odd, chain stretch normally affects car when hot and shows over 90%. Maybe someone had tried moving the pump slightly to adjust for it so it was way too low when cold.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
From cold, in my recent experience, the M51 will start with the modulation anywhere between 6% and 80%. I have just retimed the project car FIP, it was close to 78% hot and was nigh on impossible to start, now at 50.31% hot, so far it has started easily hot or cold, just a couple of turns hot.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
What mileage is the new to you engine?
you could be back to needing new water pump etc
you could be back to needing new water pump etc
Nialox
Active Member
What mileage is the new to you engine?
you could be back to needing new water pump etc
110k - on the new engine
Here’s the good part they put my water pump, new tensioners, pulleys, belts, glow plugs etc on the new engine. All of which had less than 1000miles on them.
So we should be good!
I can’t describe what a difference the flywheel and clutch has made too. It’s a different car
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Score
Nialox
Active Member
One last thing.
second time this has happened. Doesn’t happen in the morning but in the afternoon. When I go to start the car (cold). I get a alternator error message and battery warning light. That instantly disappears the second I move forwards.
move driven it probably 20 times since the swap and it’s happened twice. Beep and then disappear
second time this has happened. Doesn’t happen in the morning but in the afternoon. When I go to start the car (cold). I get a alternator error message and battery warning light. That instantly disappears the second I move forwards.
move driven it probably 20 times since the swap and it’s happened twice. Beep and then disappear
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Either a bad connection or the alternator brushes are on the way out. Had that happen on both my P38's and both times it was the brushes.
Nialox
Active Member
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If it's the brushes, they come with the regulator, make sure you get a regulator with a 14.7 volt set point.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
This is the regulator you need,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alternat...681762?hash=item5207c53062:g:xoYAAOSwHZBelHGJ
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alternat...681762?hash=item5207c53062:g:xoYAAOSwHZBelHGJ
Nialox
Active Member
Next thing. Purchased a tuning box off a friend of a friend (also with a cast intake - R reg)
comes with a male and female connector for the FIP. And then a vac line that T junctions into the MAF vac line.
Drive home, fitted the box (with engine warm - ouch) and turned on. Fired up but settled down into an extremely lumpy idle and did not run right at all. Worked fine on the other car.
should I of done it cold? Or disconnected battery?
comes with a male and female connector for the FIP. And then a vac line that T junctions into the MAF vac line.
Drive home, fitted the box (with engine warm - ouch) and turned on. Fired up but settled down into an extremely lumpy idle and did not run right at all. Worked fine on the other car.
should I of done it cold? Or disconnected battery?
