mmaddock

New Member

• Sep 13, 2009

• #1

..any hints or tips?!

Just changing the small end that is screwed onto the track rod - not the whole thing (which probably would be easier actually!).

Top bolt removed, but getting the screwed end out of the rod is proving pretty impossible as it's nicely rusted etc. in. Any hints for getting it out? The collars have loosened up no problems - well, a lot of effort required, but no real problem!

Wondering if it might be easier to remove the entire thing from the vehicle and beat it into submission on the bench!

Any help appreciated!

Matt

 

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phantom21

New Member

• Sep 13, 2009

• #2

Have you tried some heat with a blow torch

 

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gavbriggs

Well-Known Member

• Sep 13, 2009

• #3

usually hitting it either side with two hammers will release em, got to give it some welly too!!!

 

mmaddock

New Member

• Sep 13, 2009

• #4

Thanks. I'll give them both a go tomorrow, too hot and tired now!

She's bleeding AFT at the moment as I've taken the gearbox oil cooler off to change it, and stripped the threads on the pipes (widely predicted, but I hoped I could get away without that happening!) so got to wait to get new ones posted out before I can go anywhere. Anyway, gives me plenty of time to sort the track rod end and to do the pads as the rears died whilst I was in the UK!

After that, all that is left is the A/C compressor and she'll be spot on - I think I'll leave that job to the garage though!

Matt

 

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phantom21

New Member

• Sep 13, 2009

• #5

gavbriggs said:

usually hitting it either side with two hammers will release em, got to give it some welly too!!!

Click to expand...

I Don't think he's having trouble with the taper it's where the end screws onto the rod that's seized. But i could be wrong

 

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gavbriggs

Well-Known Member

• Sep 14, 2009

• #6

oooh, i thought he was splitting the ball joint as it were known when i was a lad!!!

in that case, copious amounts of heat me thinks!!

 

mmaddock

New Member

• Sep 14, 2009

• #7

phantom21 said:

I Don't think he's having trouble with the taper it's where the end screws onto the rod that's seized. But i could be wrong

Click to expand...

Correct! That popped out with a couple of bangs with a big hammer!

Going to give it a go tomorrow with heat. Too knackered to do anything today - had a very busy few days.

Guaranteed rain tomorrow now!

Matt

 

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gavbriggs

Well-Known Member

• Sep 14, 2009

• #8

at least the rain will stop the fire spreading!!! you have applied penetrating oil???? wd40 or similar

 

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eightinavee

Well-Known Member

• Sep 14, 2009

• #9

If you intend keeping the car I would just buy a new genuine track rod complete.The joints are weak as sh-te anyway and the non- gen ones only last for 15-20k miles from what I have seen/used in the past.The Genuine ones are alot dearer but at least they last 60-80k miles.Both ends of the rod do the same amount of work so it wont be long before the other end gives up.