Discocrazy2

Discocrazy2

Member
Hi All.
Got a strange screatch when unlocking. But locking only the usual motor noise then clunk. Could it be a motor on the way out like I say it's only on unlock
If any one has exprianced this please let me know.
2001 v8 4.0 HSE
 
It could be a latch on the way out, or it could just be that it needs cleaning out and regreasing.

The way the mechanism works is the motor spins a spindle with a spring loaded pin in it which gets forced out when it spins. It then contacts a metal hoop on the drive gear, which then spins the gear and activates the locking/unlocking of the latch. Once the mechanism has reached the end of it's travel, the drive gear stalls, but if the motor keeps spinning then the metal pin just clunks against the metal hoop as it spins.

I rebuild the latches as a hobby in my spare time, and have had a few that create a bit of an extra whirring on locking, and looking at it, it doesn't seem to affect the latch at all - but is where the metal hoop as become a bit mis-aligned over the years and it gets hit every time the pin comes past it.

What door are you having the problem on?
 
Hi Martyuk,
Thank you for all the info, I think its one of the rear ones the noise is very loud and sounds like a dry bearing I am away for a few days when back I will have a better idea.
 
Hi
Had a listen this morning and it's the drivers front lock noise and vibration. What I'm thinking get a replacement then strip down/repair my original one.
 
It could be the motor on the way out - the front ones are known for getting water in them.. A couple I've pulled apart to rebuild have been pretty horrible inside! A couple have had seized/rusted motors even!

I sell the latches I rebuild on exhange for a faulty one, so if you are interested in, then drop me a PM and I can give you any details or info that you want. I do them for about half the price of a new one, though they are completely stripped, cleaned, and rebuilt with new microswitches (which are the usual failure point!), tested on a tester that I've made, to make sure they are all working as they should.

On a lot of them, the super locking motor is faulty, and as they are obsolete to try and find, most of the rebuilds won't superlock. I do stock a few which the superlocking is functional on as some of the motors do work, and some people like to have the feature there and working, even if the then don't use it often!

Regards,
Marty
 
Thanks guys! I've got about 17 or them of various doors/model year rebuilt at the moment and another 12 of them in bits waiting for me to get my motivation together to get them all rebuilt and tested!
 
Hi Martyk,
Thank you for the offer of a replacement motor,
I had a voucher so decided to go for a new one with price match got it for £90+ vat. So this morning swapped the old for new no funny noises now.
Also replaced a few bulbs in the speedo (didn't disconnect the battery).
I have opened up the old motor and found 2 teeth missing on the plastic cog,I moved the cog so the missing teeth do not come in contact with the motor pinion gear and no noise now and I see what you mean about water ingress.
I think I will keep hold of the old motor add it to my pile of other landy parts.
 
Hi Marty
I'm interested in the reconditioned P38 driver's door locks as mine just whirrs loudly now, instead of locking and I was wondering how much you charge and what the carriage cost to Somerset would likely be for a good lock, please?
 
Winger13 said:
Hi Marty
I'm interested in the reconditioned P38 driver's door locks as mine just whirrs loudly now, instead of locking and I was wondering how much you charge and what the carriage cost to Somerset would likely be for a good lock, please?
Click to expand...

As far as I am aware @martyuk is abroad at the moment and has been since the pandemic started. I think one of his mates used to look after his website while he was away but he's been gone so long I am not sure if there will be any stock left. He might be contactable through his website

http://p38webshop.co.uk/

The motors just clip in and out. On early models the microswitches do too. Later models are a bit more fiddly.
 
Hi there,

I think I've seen an email from you - but haven't had a chance lately to sit down and reply to emails from the website.
I am still currently in NZ until at least the start of October, so won't be able to do anything until then at the earliest. I would recommend a decent second had latch if you can't wait until then (you might be able to poach components out of it at the very least!)

Sorry I can't be of more help - and I will attempt to reply more to your email at some point soon.

Cheers,
Marty
 
Hi Marty
Thanks for getting back to me and for the advice. Yes, I guessed from your website that it's difficult running your great fix and supply service at the moment, being on the run and all that, so I bought a second hand latch on ebay. By the way, the whirring latch is a new problem and the latch is supposed to be arriving today. So, I'll see how it goes. Incidentally, I never did sort out the real major problem of chattering door latches and horn blaring, lights flashing, windows randomly opening and closing which I wrote about a few years ago. So I bought a second hand BeCM, instrument panel, ECU, ignition barrel, door lock and keys etc and fitted it all and now (so far) only have a 2500rpm tickover problem. Incidentaly I think the whole problem was caused when I had a windscreen replacement, because from then on rain would run in all over the dashboard instruments etc, so I've found the leaks and sealed them. Re tickover issue, I've contacted local RR garages. One refuses to have any P38s through their gates and the other garage has a 5 week backlog of customers, so I got an ELM327 bluetooth adapter and downloaded Gems from Flemco on to my phone but cannot get it to read my ECU. Hey ho. At least I can drive my RR as long as I keep my foot over the brake pedal. Hope you're enjoying winter in NZ, skiing etc.
 
Might be worth taking out the IACV and giving it a good clean, might be all your problem is. If you can find someone with a Nanocom or test book, reset the adaptive values. Takes two minutes.
 
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