Nice write up! I drained mine first, then refilled, ran for a week and then drained again and changed the filter!
It gave me piece of mind knowing id flushed out some of the oil stored in the torque converter as well.
It gave me piece of mind knowing id flushed out some of the oil stored in the torque converter as well.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
AND DON'T FORGET TO USE AXLE STANDS !!
A very knowledgeable company told me that a filter change is a bit pointless on an zf. There reasoning was if the filters got enough to block the box needs a refurb anyway. But they did say a regular atf change was beneficial and easy.
I would also say that dropping the sump and changing the filter is not to be taken lightly. If it's a dipstick sump don't try to undo the tube just drop the sump with the tube. These can be a bitch to stop leaking and can twist clean off! In short change the oil but leave the filter. There are several versions of these filter btw no tube, short tube and long tube rangeys need the long tube. This is so the box gets oil on steep inclines( deep sump) my jag has to have no tube although all the parts supplier provide short tubes for this model.
I would also say that dropping the sump and changing the filter is not to be taken lightly. If it's a dipstick sump don't try to undo the tube just drop the sump with the tube. These can be a bitch to stop leaking and can twist clean off! In short change the oil but leave the filter. There are several versions of these filter btw no tube, short tube and long tube rangeys need the long tube. This is so the box gets oil on steep inclines( deep sump) my jag has to have no tube although all the parts supplier provide short tubes for this model.
So you can go up slight inclines?
mutsnutz
Well-Known Member
plus one to this as well as stable ground
See post 27, leave the dips tick tube on the sump and drop the lot together.
Good write-up
Best to replace the rubber sump gasket. They harden over time & leak. (Rubber rocker cover gaskets do the same)
Some seem to be a tad undersize & can be a pain.
The Classic ZF4HP22 is much the same. Start by checking the old level on the dipstick for correct level.
Drain & measure the quantity that comes out. That's your starting point for the refill amount required.
The torque converter will retain a lot of fluid & can't be drained in situ so don't just put in the quantity shown in the manuals as that's for a completely empty system - usually new gearbox & torque converter.
I use a small plastic funnel in the end of the dipstick tube to refill - best not to pinch the one from the kitchen....
Best to replace the rubber sump gasket. They harden over time & leak. (Rubber rocker cover gaskets do the same)
Some seem to be a tad undersize & can be a pain.
The Classic ZF4HP22 is much the same. Start by checking the old level on the dipstick for correct level.
Drain & measure the quantity that comes out. That's your starting point for the refill amount required.
The torque converter will retain a lot of fluid & can't be drained in situ so don't just put in the quantity shown in the manuals as that's for a completely empty system - usually new gearbox & torque converter.
I use a small plastic funnel in the end of the dipstick tube to refill - best not to pinch the one from the kitchen....
This was very helpful, thank you, it's all stripped down new gaskit and filter will be here tomorrow. Thank youGood write-up
Best to replace the rubber sump gasket. They harden over time & leak. (Rubber rocker cover gaskets do the same)
Some seem to be a tad undersize & can be a pain.
The Classic ZF4HP22 is much the same. Start by checking the old level on the dipstick for correct level.
Drain & measure the quantity that comes out. That's your starting point for the refill amount required.
The torque converter will retain a lot of fluid & can't be drained in situ so don't just put in the quantity shown in the manuals as that's for a completely empty system - usually new gearbox & torque converter.
I use a small plastic funnel in the end of the dipstick tube to refill - best not to pinch the one from the kitchen....
Jon Dor
Well-Known Member
That's a great run through the process step-by-step, with great pics too! Well done that man - not forgetting Keith's important input - about inputting the ATF! 11/10 chaps!Well folks, after many months putting this job off, my car could not take much more, so I decided to take the plunge this morning.
All that I can say is..........DO IT YOURSELF........I am by no means and expert mechanic, however I was a little nervous about this,
especially when people say, "Don't mess with the gearbox, pay someone else to do it..." or " you could do more harm than good" etc etc....
As you will see from the photos, I did this outside my house with the car parked half on the road & half on the pavement with the
ride height set to high.......plenty of room underneath......This job took me an hour, including taking photos. The longest time was
trying to get the new rubber seal to fit the sump, then trying to fit the first couple of sump bolts back in place whilst holding the
sump in place and then filling with oil....
My Workshop
1) Remove the sump drain plug using an allen key (size 5), Drain the gearbox oil ( Automatic Transmission Fluid -ATF) into a suitable container.
Clean and replace the sump plug, using a new washer if supplied......and carefully tighten.
2) Loosen the middle bolt (15mm) on the chassis cross member pictured below, you do not need to fully remove the bolt, just loosen it
enough so that when you remove the sump the bolt does not get in the way.
3) Remove the 6 sump retaining bolts (10mm). 5 of them can be easily reached with a socket. However one of them you will either need
a small knuckle joint for your socket or like me a small 10mm spanner.
4) Once you have removed the last sump retaining bolt carefully lower the sump away from the gearbox. Careful as there will still be
some oil in the sump.........
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachment.php?attachmentid=21617&stc=1&d=1297530995
5) You will now be able to see the Gearbox Oil Filter, you will need to remove the 3 Tork Screws (size T27) that hold it in place, one
in the centre that also hold the pick up pipe in place and two on the edge next to each other...
6) Remove the old filter, put the new rubber seals on the new filter one each side, carefully remove the pick up pipe from the old filter
and put onto the new filter.
7) Carefully replace the filter back in the gearbox and tighten the 3 torx screws
8)Clean the sump and replace the rubber sump oil seal ensuring that all surfaces are clean. Remove and clean the magnet that is in
the bottom of the sump, (You will find bits of your gearbox stuck to this
9) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the gearbox and sump gasket a re clean then carefully position the sump back into place and
replace and tighten the 6 sump retaining bolts (this is what took me so long.......)
10) Once the sump is back in place, don't forget to tighten the 15mm bolt on the chassis cross member....
11) Using an allen key (Size 8) carefully remove the Oil filler plug, ( replace the washer if supplied) and fill with oil. You will only be able to put
about 3 litres in. Once the fluid starts coming out of the filler plug, replace the plug, start the car, withthe car stationary,
slowly cylce through the gears using the gear selector from "P" all the way down to "1st" and then back to "P". Keep engine idling
12) Get back under the car, remove the filler plug and put some more ATF in until the oil starts to dribble out once again.
Once this happens, replace and tighten the filler plug get out from under the car and pat yourself on the back for a saving yourself quite a bit of money......
Problems Encountered
Both replacement copper washers supplied, did not fit.....so I carefully cleaned the old ones and used them
New Replacement Rubber seal would not stay on the sump, this was probably more to do with the fact that it has been stored
folded up ina box and needed to be straightened out, The one I took off was in excellent condition, so I gave it a really good clean
and re-used that.
Tips
Get your tools together first:-
10mm Socket & small 10mm ring spanner
15mm socket
T27 Tork Spanner
Allen Keys/Hex Keys for sump plugs, note these are different sizes ( Size 5 & 8 required)
I have taken the car for a drive and it changes gear great, I will re-check the levels tomorrow when the gearbox is cold,
to ensure that the levels are correct as I was expecting to put at least 4 litres in..... see later thread from Datatek....Final fill to be completed with Engine idling.......Have refilled this morning and it has taken another 1.5 litres Thanks Datatek...
Jon Dor
Well-Known Member
Coal, gold, tin or copper mining?
Used to be coal round here, alas part of the history books now
Jon Dor
Well-Known Member
Same where I'm from too... Virtually every little village between Manchester and Liverpool on the East Lancs Road had their own coal pit. My grandad was a West Cumbrian Coast miner. Crouched for well over a mile under the sea to get to the coal face. Had his legs mangled in a pit explosion, so ended up as "tally man" at the pit head. Died aged 51 of pneumoconiosis, commonly referred to a "miners lung disease". The day he died, the miner's coal allowance was terminated! We don't know what graft is like these days by comparison.
to true my friend to true. Could look out of my bedroom window as a kid and see 3 pits and a coking plant
